BRISBANE. Bougth a 207 GTi lemon.

Expect a recopy fault if one of the pedal tracks is bad. There will be a 'hard spot' at the end of travel as ss described.
The pedal may not be the root problem here.
 
schlitzaugen said:
Just unplug the connector and you should see six contacts. Should be two pairs that keep constant resistance across no matter the pedal position and the remaining two are the wipers so resistance measured from each of these to the corresponding contact (one of the paired contacts) should change with pedal position. Figure out which is which and get testing. I don't think absolute values would be that important right now, more important to see there is linear change (or change of any kind) all the way across the stroke but if you find them on the nets you can check if the pots are in spec too.
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Will do. Thanks
 
seasink said:
The little Citroen DS3 turbo has much in common mechanically with the 207 GTI. If you feel under the pedal at the top, of the DS3 there is an electrical contact for a matching spot on the pivot support. It turns off speed limiting when the pedal is fully depressed. It might be your click.
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The "click" is definitely in the box/top of pedal as theres nothing hitting at the bottom.
 
David S said:
Expect a recopy fault if one of the pedal tracks is bad. There will be a 'hard spot' at the end of travel as ss described.
The pedal may not be the root problem here.
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I know, but at least it's some explanation why its revving slow and reduced power.
If you were a passenger unaware of the problem, you would simply think I'm just plodding along at light throttle, whereas I've actually at WOT or near.
 
Thank you again to everyone who has replied. I do know my way around cars, but admittedly a noob when it comes to electronics/electrics, and I seriously do not like how most things are, and will be.

Having said that, I have installed IRTB's on a '94 MX-5 and had a taste of Fast'n'Furious life with installing and programming/tuning a full aftermarket ECU to run them. 😎
 
Andy's first frenchie said:
Really? The socket has to be THAT deep? Normal spark plug sockets with extension won't do?
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I use a deep socket with an extension - mine has little claws that hold the plug.

A rubber grommet on a "normal" deep socket will often result in the socket departing from the extension and staying on the plug - hence the long sockets being suggested.
 
Anyone know any other simple method for recalibrating the throttle?
I found a few. The first two is for Peugeot (one of them was a 207 owner), third is for Cooper S.

None worked.
SLC206 said:
I use a deep socket with an extension - mine has little claws that hold the plug.

A rubber grommet on a "normal" deep socket will often result in the socket departing from the extension and staying on the plug - hence the long sockets being suggested.
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Ok. If the rubber o-ring grabber or socket coming loose are the biggest concerns thats no biggie as I've got a dedicated spark plug socket with extension taped together with electrician tape and rubber grabber epoxied in :)
 

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The intake is missing the front "cold air" pipe so as we were troubleshooting, my mate covered the with a balled up shirt as it was idling... engine didn't stall, and idle didn't change one bit.

I revved the engine to 2k whilst the held shirt over intake and he didn't feel any tugging.
Then he held the shirt loosely and placed it slightly inside and he said he only felt every so slight pull.

I think we found the problem. Will disassemble intake this evening.
 
So in effect you have a long socket! The reason I advised this might just relate to the time I lost a short one down that hole.

I'm not clear about the cold air pipe. The turbo engines have a convoluted plastic feed to the air filter box with an elbow pointing left at the front. There is no sound resonator there. A simple baffle slides in front.

(You unclip the baffle and elbow to do an oil filter change)
 
seasink said:
So in effect you have a long socket! The reason I advised this might just relate to the time I lost a short one down that hole.

I'm not clear about the cold air pipe. The turbo engines have a convoluted plastic feed to the air filter box with an elbow pointing left at the front. There is no sound resonator there. A simple baffle slides in front.

(You unclip the baffle and elbow to do an oil filter change)
Click to expand...
 
seasink said:
So in effect you have a long socket! The reason I advised this might just relate to the time I lost a short one down that hole.

I'm not clear about the cold air pipe. The turbo engines have a convoluted plastic feed to the air filter box with an elbow pointing left at the front. There is no sound resonator there. A simple baffle slides in front.

(You unclip the baffle and elbow to do an oil filter change)
Click to expand...
That entire part of the intake is missing. So initial opening is the plastic pipe right under the flexible rubber pipe that goes directly into turbo housing.
 

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The bits in the yellow box are the parts you unclip to service the filter. Someone didn't put them back. The triangle bit mainly keeps your fingers out of there and blocks off the upper bonnet space.

The intake is wide open underneath. I'll send a picture.
 
Here is the inlet on a DS3 turbo, with the last bit lifted out. The big tube at the bottom is the intake. I have run th car without it.
intake1.jpg
 
What's the filter like? What happens without it? (besides noise) There isn't much else there to bother you.
air intake.png
 
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Each one of those parts comes off to do the filter. Poor service before you obtained it. You don't want to draw hot radiator and engine air.
 
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