To be honest the plugs look a little bit "dirty" to me.
I just changed my Citroen's 3 year old plugs and the porcelains were spotless.
I just changed my Citroen's 3 year old plugs and the porcelains were spotless.
BRISBANE. Bougth a 207 GTi lemon.
- Thread starter Andy's first frenchie
- Start date
What should the gap be? Atm it appears 1mm perhaps a smidge wider.
Yeh there's a fair amount of soot, but its nothing im not accustomed to. Euroserve did say they tried a couple of MAP sensors and the first made it run massively rich. That was about 400km agoTo be honest the plugs look a little bit "dirty" to me.
I just changed my Citroen's 3 year old plugs and the porcelains were spotless.
Repco has it listed on their site. Will give a couple local stores a call to check stock.
Can't see the porcelain in those pics. That's critical for these plugs. The Iririum plugs don't tend to wear the electrode so much. Gap should be about 0.8mm(?) - they rarely change with wear.
If there is any colouring on the porcelain they need to be changed.
If they've done 30K km's they need to be changed.
Cheers
Justin
Repco had them for $20 each as I was replying here, then when I checked again at 18:45 it jumped to $31 
. Bought a set from sparebox, hopefully get here by end of the week.
I've also bought an OEM bosch MAP sensor (pre throttle body). I'll do one at a time to ascertain any differences.
I started another thread re accelerator pedal and hopefully a member has a spare.
the above three changes will sort everything out.
Keep the comments/feedback coming guys. Lovin' this page.
. Bought a set from sparebox, hopefully get here by end of the week.I've also bought an OEM bosch MAP sensor (pre throttle body). I'll do one at a time to ascertain any differences.
I started another thread re accelerator pedal and hopefully a member has a spare.
the above three changes will sort everything out. Keep the comments/feedback coming guys. Lovin' this page.
This arrived 7 days from the UK 
Definitely makes a difference. Theres a patched up section of road that I drive over as i leave the house, and i reach 65km/h just a few metres before it (accelerating relatively sedately) With the intake i hit 65km/h JUUUST that little bit earlier
.
It makes some luverly sounds
Definitely makes a difference. Theres a patched up section of road that I drive over as i leave the house, and i reach 65km/h just a few metres before it (accelerating relatively sedately) With the intake i hit 65km/h JUUUST that little bit earlier
. It makes some luverly sounds
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Earlier on, didn't the air filter seem to be less than ideal? In my experience the large standard filter when clean does not retard the engine at all. It probably has better flow than most of the kind you have used. I have driven my DS3 without a filter to compare performance, and the only difference I noted was noise.
OEM air filter was fine. Slightly dirty but normal and what you'd expect. I'm missing the front part of the OEM intake (resonator box or whatever you want to call it) and the bottom pipe that runs right beside the engine is sitting very loose where it connects to the bottom half of the airbox (appears to be missing an O-ring), so its sucking in a fair amount of hot air from the back of engine bay. When a mate held a piece of cloth over the intake, upon revving to 4,000, the cloth hardly moved. And when he balled it up and blocked the pipe, the engine didn't even come close to stalling.
That means you have some massive air leak somewhere or your engine has no compression at all whatsoever.
Is this sealed from new unit to airbox and where is this line connected to now? just asking...
Nup. I just haven't bothered to remove the OEM piece. That pipe serves no function now. The little pipe going into it is very short and blocked off
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Yes to former (pre turbo), no to latter.
When I removed all induction pipework except the pipe that goes directly into turbo (the one with the grid) and I blocked off that pipe with my palm, that pipe, as well as the ones going in/out of intercooler, deflects inward significantly and the engine stumbles
Have you had it on a proper Diagbox? Anything less won't give you the full picture.
Euroserve had a look at it. All parameters within range except its booking about 1psi less than what it should.
The only anomaly is My OBDII on live data shows 42-46% Max throttle opening when pedal is to the floor.
The only anomaly is My OBDII on live data shows 42-46% Max throttle opening when pedal is to the floor.
Boosting not booking
I'd be interested to see how the boost pressure follows the reference pressure, and likewise with the throttle position.
Installing the Turbosmart boost tee on the actuator hose didn't increase boost significantly (Im pretty sure it went up a psi and a bit) but it did smoothen the power delivery (don't ask how because I dont know) and lessened the frequency of it going into "shit mode" from once every 5th or drive or so to once every 9th or so.
Next ports of call is replacing the pre throttle body MAP sensor, then spark plugs, then accelerator pedal. One at a time to ascertain if each made any difference.
Next ports of call is replacing the pre throttle body MAP sensor, then spark plugs, then accelerator pedal. One at a time to ascertain if each made any difference.
I would have tested the pedal by now. You still don't know if that gives the correct signal or not. Or did you at least ask someone to press the pedal while you looked at how much the throttle plate opens?