BRISBANE. Bougth a 207 GTi lemon.

Brilliant, isn't it? Factories insist on mounting everything on the engine, even if it will become inaccessible.
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Oh Lord... how much space is there for access from underneath? Or is it a manifold off job?
My friend who has had French cars over a couple decades, and I quote, "they have their quirks and perhaps not as reliable as Japanese, but they are designed to be more easily serviceable"
He's mostly right I guess because that's not really a serviceable item.
 
Manufacturers want engines and transmissions to be assembled complete with all accessories so they can be pushed up into the body from below on the assembly line. With everything tacked onto the sides and with limited space some bits just get made inaccessible. They all do it. If it adds to repair time they aren't much concerned
 
Thanks David if the canister solenoi valve isn't expensive, should I just replace it?
The canister solenoid valve part# 1563L4 would be about $90 from a dealer. I would think you should check if there is any raw fuel in the canister as a first step. There shouldn't be.
 
Can someone please confirm if this is the correct part # for the throttle pedal assembly
 

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No. It starts at the turbo diaphragm level and passes over the transmission at that height. It's in that bundle in the image & is only a small diam hose.
 
Can't tell. Why not trace it from the solenoid valve? It's the second connection from the end. The end is vacuum.
 
Can't tell. Why not trace it from the solenoid valve? It's the second connection from the end. The end is
Its the larger of the two. The smallest dia hose goes into a housing at the front that looks like there's a cam sprocket or Cam Angle Sensor in it.
I installed a new Turbosmart boost tee and lost a ton of boost, even at full opening I'm getting about 75% of normal boost.... well... normal in my instance anyway which is about 60-70% normal boost. Found a video where a guy opened up the tee and removed the spring and ball and voila! Normal boost again. Unsure if I lost or gained a psi or two.
This is truly frustrating. Even when I try to cheat to get more power it fails. 😔
 
Yup. Spark plugs will be checked tomorrow arvo or weekend. I have necessary tools and spark plug socket (unless it requires some proprietary socket?). I have some spare, new plugs, hopefully they will be compatible, otherwise I'll clean them as best I can and get proper ones.

The car surges very slightly in 1st and 2nd until it gets around 50km/h. Not all the time, but most.

I'll do the oil filler test as per yours and Seasink's suggestion tomorrow morning when warming it up.

After hours of internet/YouTube search, oftentimes no codes show up. The centre display doesn't work btw.

Thank you all for the replies... please keep them coming, and I'll update how things are going.

The rest of the car is in 👌 shape btw.

I don't think we ever heard what you found when you changed the plugs ?

Are the correct plugs fitted ? Was there any burning of the porcelin of the old ones ? How did it look the engine was burning fuel ?

Cheers

Justin
 
The engine was lean in early posts. This could show in the plugs.
 
I don't think we ever heard what you found when you changed the plugs ?

Are the correct plugs fitted ? Was there any burning of the porcelin of the old ones ? How did it look the engine was burning fuel ?

Cheers

Justin
Haven't checked plugs. Have had it back from shop for about 4 weeks now and wanting to let it run for a bit and see if the fuel filter and MAP replacement has made a difference.
I'll get onto the plugs this weekend.

Latest update: even through the Turbosmart boost tee initially didn't seem like it made a difference (ie. Produce more boost), it has smoothed out the power delivery. After three days, and over a dozen drives, French Lemon hasn't gone into "shit mode". Go figure.

I unplugged the accelerator pedal box and sprayed contact cleaner on terminals. I don't think it made a difference.
I've watched a few vids where the pedal box was opened up to clean the contacts of the potentiometer, so I'll likely to this soon, as well as checking that its producing the correct voltages.
 
The engine was lean in early posts. This could show in the plugs.
Besides the last few days, it goes into "shit mode" about once every 4-6 drives and doesn't show up codes BUT earlier this week it showed both lean AND rich as well as another code which I didn't bother recording. 😑
That was the first time it showed a code for a few weeks.
 
I don't think we ever heard what you found when you changed the plugs ?

Are the correct plugs fitted ? Was there any burning of the porcelin of the old ones ? How did it look the engine was burning fuel ?

Cheers

Justin
Plugs look ok. 1 - 4 in order left to right.
The crush washer is quite flat so fair chance it's been removed and tightened numerous times and old. Will buy new ones this week.
I'm unsure what the gap should be but at least looks consistent.
No unusual colouring, not a hint of oil.
 

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FYI 4 - 1, cylinder 1 at transmission end. Gap looks too wide these should be replaced every 30k with exact spec. Pug or Mini dealers will hold as the usual retailers don't stock them.
 
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