BRISBANE. Bougth a 207 GTi lemon.

schlitzaugen said:
I would have tested the pedal by now. You still don't know if that gives the correct signal or not. Or did you at least ask someone to press the pedal while you looked at how much the throttle plate opens?
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I only ran live data on OBDII once by myself as I was driving and gave it full pedal travel in first 3 gears several times. I'll get a mate to shotgun and have him video it.
Haven't done it stationary with engine off and key on. It should give the same reading right?
 
I don't know what you have done or what the readings should be (or what you have learnt form using OBD). I take it you were driving the car, so that adds some confounding factors. Maybe the pedal is sending the right signal but the ECU decides to override it for whatever reason. Maybe the pedal doesn't send the right signal. This is what I would have clarified first.

But I am guessing if you plant it on the floor with the engine off (ignition on) the plate should be wide open. Is it? This would at least clarify what the pedal is doing.

There may be some complication here too if the throttle pedal signal goes through the ECU and the ECU can override even when the engine is off and it decides to ignore you. This might mean that if you don't start the engine the ECU will just decide to disregard you, but it's worth a try to at least move things forward with this unknown. If the ECU has override powers, then you're back to square one with the throttle and you have to do what I suggested many pages ago and measure the pots with a multimeter.
 
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How much investigation have you done on the vacuum system ? The turbo is fully vacuum controlled - no vacuum = no boost.
There are long lines running right around the engine to the main vacuum cannister. Any leaks anywhere in the system can cause no boost - and these leaks are common.

Have a read of this thread for more details and part numbers to look at - https://forum.ds3club.co.uk/forum/ds3/ds3-technical/403010-help-persistent-boost-pressure-issue

The vacuum pump on the end of the cam, creates the vacuum for the cannister - https://ibb.co/C8W6h1c - those long lines #4 can break, leak, and block with oil.

and then the electro valve - part #15 in https://ibb.co/86fhnmy - is what diverts that vacuum to the turbo on request. Any issue with any part of that system means your turbo won't make any boost.

If you get yourself setup with the proper Peugeot diagnostics (see other threads about Lexia) then there is a live test on the wastegate actuator in that system - you can watch the wastegate arm opening and closing on command.

Also unscrew the top O2 sensor on the front of the engine, and drop a phone endoscope in and look at the wastegate flap inside the turbo - if that flap is corroded away (which they do...) then no boost.
 
Also just to add, a 207 GTI with no boost has exactly the issues you list - can't get up hills, can't get moving easily, etc. - I've had these issues with mine in the past.
 
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Schlitz, the throttle butterfly on an EP engine isn't easily seen - it's buried in the intake plenum structure behind the engine. It is 12v motor driven by the computer with a 5v position sensor on the axle to confirm location to the computer.
 
Shlitz, I'm hoping pedal replacement solves the issue, but in the meantime I'll continue to test. Dimistyle has given me address of a pick and pay wrecker nearby
 
Nomgle, some investigation re vacuum and actuator, but not to the extent you mentioned. To summarise; in "shit mode" I can just hear diverter valve only in 1st and 2nd.
When i turn engine off, key on, and erase codes (even when there are no codes), the engine goes to "ok mode". I can hear diverter valve in every gear, pulls well after 2,300RPM in 3rd/4th/5th but 1st and 2nd torque is noticeable after 4,400RPM.

No difference if I push pedal from around halfway to flat to floor, hence why I'm hoping the pedal box/signal is faulty
 
Really sounds like "shit mode" is just no boost mode.
But usually if you have an issue where the ECU is asking for boost, you'll get a check engine light when the turbo doesn't provide enough (the ECU checks request boost against actual boost). No check engine light implies the ECU isn't asking for boost .... carbon build up or timing chain issues throwing things out of whack ?

I think any issues with the pedal box would throw a fault code, every piece of electronics is monitored. Hmmmm.
 
Hmmmm is right.
Yes "shit mode" is mainly due to no boost.
Both "shit mode" and "ok mode" OBDII only shows around 45% throttle opening.

Seldom throws codes.

Except the odd occasion of rich or lean ... and once rich AND lean 🥴
 
Andy's first frenchie said:
Seldom throws codes.
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This thread is too long to bother reading it all, get yourself a lexia clone and Diagbox to check codes and live data, some OBD readers and programs I've come across only show permanent codes and not the transient.
 
Andy's first frenchie said:
I only ran live data on OBDII once by myself as I was driving and gave it full pedal travel in first 3 gears several times. I'll get a mate to shotgun and have him video it.
Haven't done it stationary with engine off and key on. It should give the same reading right?
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As mentioned above, it sounds exactly like a low boost problem.

You really need to compare the current boost pressure to the reference pressure (the boost that the computer is asking for), and track them as you drive. I don't think any generic OBD readers will provide that data - you need DiagBox.

My suspicion would absolutely be a low vacuum condition, and I feel that by fitting a cheap bleed valve boost controller you will have only made the problem worse. They are designed to bleed off boost pressure from the wastegate actuator, but the Peugeot system doesn't provide boost to the wastegate actuator, the ECU provides a modulated vacuum signal from the vacuum pump on the camshaft via an electronic solenoid valve.
 
love the access to the solenoid valve!! check all 3 pipes are connected from below access is minimal unless you take the inlet manifold off.
 
I've already bought pre TB MAP sensor and spark plugs so those will definitely be replaced and pedal forthcoming. They're all simple to do and relatively cheap and if issue persists, at least eliminates possible causes before I spend more $$.

I've used up two bottles of Lucas GDI (two separate occassions) and I'm unsure if it made a tangible improvement

Replaced/done by Euroserve: inlet manifold MAP sensor, fuel filter, computer diagnosis.
Done by me: visual check plugs, visual checked diverter valve, installed boost tee, cleaned all sensor contacts (EGR, MAP, accelerator pedal, diverter valve, COPs), checked and tightened hoses and fittings
 
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Andy's first frenchie said:
I've used up two bottles of Lucas GDI (two separate occassions) and I'm unsure if it made a tangible improvement
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The only way to clean the intake valves on these engines, is to take off the manifold and do it manually.

Or you can do walnut blasting like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2627846 - read that page carefully for lots of nice information.

Removing the intake manifold is easy enough - https://www.pelicanparts.com/techar...harged_Engine_Intake_Manifold_Replacement.htm - if you do this, you can look inside the intake ports and see if there is excessive carbon build up.

If you have issues, it looks like this https://www.northamericanmotoring.c...-up-cleaning-the-right-way-3.html#post3723804
 
Nomgle said:
The only way to clean the intake valves on these engines, is to take off the manifold and do it manually.

Or you can do walnut blasting like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2627846 - read that page carefully for lots of nice information.

Removing the intake manifold is easy enough - https://www.pelicanparts.com/techar...harged_Engine_Intake_Manifold_Replacement.htm - if you do this, you can look inside the intake ports and see if there is excessive carbon build up.

If you have issues, it looks like this https://www.northamericanmotoring.c...-up-cleaning-the-right-way-3.html#post3723804
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Some good links there.

Cheers

Justin
 
seasink said:
Schlitz, the throttle butterfly on an EP engine isn't easily seen - it's buried in the intake plenum structure behind the engine. It is 12v motor driven by the computer with a 5v position sensor on the axle to confirm location to the computer.
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I did think that may be the case.

I know what these should look like, I have had a look at a few Subaru Legacy throttle bodies when my son had problems with his. It is a servo exactly like the ones used in R/C, only bigger. Their sensors however are simple pots. Exactly like and R/C servo. These were PWM driven so easily scoped to see the signal duty cycle.

What kind of sensor does the Pug use? Encoder? Hall? How many wires come off the throttle body servo?

Is it possible to take a few things off quickly to see the throttle or at least the other end of the shaft?
 
Removing the intake manifold is easy enough
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That link is for a Mini. Access under the windscreen in PSA vehicles is quite another proposition. Fixings are undone and replaced by feel, so you need to know where they are. Then cleaning is done with a mirror.
 
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