BRISBANE. Bougth a 207 GTi lemon.
- Thread starter Andy's first frenchie
- Start date
I was wondering about that.
Still, the voltage output is DC so should be measurable by multimeter.
Good suggestion with the external 5V power source.
My brain already hurts.
I'd agree, as it's a contactless position sensor.
Found this description which confirms Matthew is an engineer
"...potentiometers, sensors, and controls are commonly interchanged, but to engineers that frequently work with them, there is a substantial difference and the terms are not interchangeable."
I've only seen hall effect used to generate a digital signal from a change in the sensor to metal distance like dizzy and crank angle sensors, so I wondered how can a hall sensor make a 0v to 5v linear output and found this neat picture and learned somethingnew today.
Here is the diagram again to show how it works. Aimant means magnet, attached to the pedal. The other labels are obvious. The Hall sensor output is applied to the base of a transistor in the diagram shown earlier..
I am no engineer or auto electrical whiz... However, I would put money on the pedal assembly not being at fault. The ECU is getting whacky signals from somewhere and limiting boost. The intermittent nature suggests that is a combination of electro and mechanical. Has a probe camera been shoved into the engine to look at the condition of the intake and valves?
Hall effect sensors have been used like that in CNC since the seventies when we did not have linear digital encoders for DRO. Have a look on youtube at RotarySMP, a kiwi living in Vienna restoring a beautiful Schaublin CNC lathe from back then.I'd agree, as it's a contactless position sensor.
Found this description which confirms Matthew is an engineer
"...potentiometers, sensors, and controls are commonly interchanged, but to engineers that frequently work with them, there is a substantial difference and the terms are not interchangeable."
I've only seen hall effect used to generate a digital signal from a change in the sensor to metal distance like dizzy and crank angle sensors, so I wondered how can a hall sensor make a 0v to 5v linear output and found this neat picture and learned somethingnew today.
View attachment 208136
View attachment 208137
That is why they say "contactless". But the voltage put out by a Hall effect sensor is easily measurable with a multimeter, even though very small (a few mV). I expect after amplification and forming by the pedal module the signal will be way easier to measure with the multimeter.
But I guess the "potentiometer" the documentation refers to is the entire circuit (including transistors or opamps, whatever) which performs the function of a potentiometer (i.e. produce a linearly variable DC voltage from a primary source).
Looking at the last diagram posted by seasink, I can easily imagine the little magnet n the pedal dislodged and giving whacky signals (remember the two outputs have to be in a certain range and relative proportion). That would be a good outcome even if I have no idea how you'd fix it so it doesn't happen again.
Replaced pre throttle MAP sensor yesterday with OEM Bosch. No change. it may have improved idle stability on cold start up. Will report back.
Completely forgot to hunt for pedal at wreckers I Saturday
Completely forgot to hunt for pedal at wreckers I Saturday
Tried A1 Global @ Willawong?
84 King Avenue? Dimistyle recommended it too
Yes they have quite a few EU marques & usually reasonable price. JG.
I go so often I give them the price and they agree.
Fuse box $80
BSI $80
ECU $60
They use eBay to set the price as they have no idea. I let them know how much work it was to pull a part 5 vehicles looking for the correct item and how much more work to get re-coded and they shy away from the $180 plus they were going to ask for.
Just don't try a rip them off with pockets of other items.
They also give you a 30 day return if item is no good.
Good luck
I'll devise a list and go this Saturday. Although previous owners took exceptional car of the interior and exterior, mechanical skills were very lacking. Very lazy as there lots of bits missing like both main headlight retaining clips. I had to cannibalise from a completely different car that JUST fits... with a bit of tweaking
Pretty cheap for ECU and I assume the entire fuse box with fuses? What's BSI?
Pretty cheap for ECU and I assume the entire fuse box with fuses? What's BSI?
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BSI is the body computer
Ah yeh that thing. I watched a few YouTube clips on how to reset it 
Dangit...[Maxwell Smart voice] "missed it by THAT 
much" wreckers at willawong had a 207 GT. No other 207 but a few 307 and 308. A few unrelatable citroens.
At least I got a pic of the accelerator pedal and its a slightly different part number. The last 5 digits are different
much" wreckers at willawong had a 207 GT. No other 207 but a few 307 and 308. A few unrelatable citroens. At least I got a pic of the accelerator pedal and its a slightly different part number. The last 5 digits are different
Plugs changed with exact same Platinum NGK. No discernible change in idle quality (which was fine to begin with), didn't really feel extra surge of power/torque but it was smoother all the way to 6,200RPM in 2nd and 3rd.
Crush washer be crushed
Attachments
Just replaced diverter valve to OEM Pierburg. Change in sound, maybe boosting a bit better.
Summary of things replaced with new:
- fuel filter
- pre and post throttle MAP sensors
- super-short intake with pod filter
- spark plugs
- diverter valve
Things I've done:
- cleaned all engine bay electrical/electronic contacts/plugs I can easily reach with contact cleaner spray
- throttle correction via Topdon OBDII scanner
Things remaining to do:
- replace accelerator pedal
- replace coil packs
- debating whether or not to install de-cat dump pipe
I've also installed, and since removed, a Turbosmart boost tee as it actually reduced boost. Perplexingly, the boost tee REDUCED boost more I opened it up.
French Lemon is quite acceptable atm. Still goes into sh!t mode occasionally and randomly, but at least it's now easily fixed with clearing codes which actually don't show up.
Only goes into sh!t mode when sitting in traffic, or crawling in gridlock. Water and oil temperature makes no difference.
Summary of things replaced with new:
- fuel filter
- pre and post throttle MAP sensors
- super-short intake with pod filter
- spark plugs
- diverter valve
Things I've done:
- cleaned all engine bay electrical/electronic contacts/plugs I can easily reach with contact cleaner spray
- throttle correction via Topdon OBDII scanner
Things remaining to do:
- replace accelerator pedal
- replace coil packs
- debating whether or not to install de-cat dump pipe
I've also installed, and since removed, a Turbosmart boost tee as it actually reduced boost. Perplexingly, the boost tee REDUCED boost more I opened it up.
French Lemon is quite acceptable atm. Still goes into sh!t mode occasionally and randomly, but at least it's now easily fixed with clearing codes which actually don't show up.
Only goes into sh!t mode when sitting in traffic, or crawling in gridlock. Water and oil temperature makes no difference.
1st and 2nd gear feels more like a 2.2L naturally aspirated until 4,500RPM where there's a noticeable kick.
3rd, 4th and 5th is fairly torquey from 2,400RPM but power doesn't feel like it builds much, just a steady increase of speed.
3rd, 4th and 5th is fairly torquey from 2,400RPM but power doesn't feel like it builds much, just a steady increase of speed.