I know I asked already, but your new "trusted brand" pads aren't directional?
We know we are close, so 'feel' what effort is needed on jack handle & whether this has increased after the adjustment so as to be equal on both sides. We know the measurements we need to change in #43How do you measure the 'feel' with a jack? I would think you might have some chance of a DIY measurement using a crowbar under the hub and a known mass on the end. If you can do this repeatably and know the location of the fulcrum point, you could probably work out the maths for leverage, but it would be easier to look at relative deflection of the lever. You'd have to ensure L&R on the same beam are very close or the difference will affect the other end when it's back on all four wheels..
Given this car is 70+ years old now, also consider that the torsion bars may be beyond their best or could even have been swapped.
If it doesn't work out, consider this as a fallback:
https://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/index.php?threads/146622
Should have seen the look on the guy at Bob Jane's face when I asked for a front end wheel alignment.Most of this modern computerised stuff won't hook up properly & the grease monkeys don't understand actual wheel alignment or what's going on & particular an old car like this.
There's no adjustment at all, only the drag link to keep the pitman arm in the correct relationship at the straight ahead.did you get charged half price for 1 wheel ,?
Only adjusted the heights @ this stage.So, the measured deceleration is showing as greatest opposite to those wheels supporting the greatest weight?
The weight distribution hasn't changed much via the 'feel' method. Is 'feel' misleading?
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