Outstanding work! Now it's just a matter of re-assembly! 
69 404 restoration
- Thread starter Dano
- Start date
Magnificent transition. Quite the trip! So how many layers of colour did you lay down? Any clearcoat?
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the compliment. Dan and I are very happy with what we have achieved, since we started the first bit of panel work.
Three top coats and two or three of primer/undercoats. At this stage there is no plans to clear coat it. I am lead to believe, that the hardener used will help to dull the 2 pack to help make it look like '60 era enamel (?), beyond my knowledge base. I certainly trust Dan, as he did his trade restoring show cars. I am also conscious of not having a super bright and ultra slick finish like modern cars. The DeBeers brand of paint were used.
The wheels on the car are purely for moving it around, another set have been straightened and painted silver as per a '69 finish.
The panels were only loosely secured to bring it home. They will be fully aligned in due course.
Cheers,
Dano
Thanks for the compliment. Dan and I are very happy with what we have achieved, since we started the first bit of panel work.
Three top coats and two or three of primer/undercoats. At this stage there is no plans to clear coat it. I am lead to believe, that the hardener used will help to dull the 2 pack to help make it look like '60 era enamel (?), beyond my knowledge base. I certainly trust Dan, as he did his trade restoring show cars. I am also conscious of not having a super bright and ultra slick finish like modern cars. The DeBeers brand of paint were used.
The wheels on the car are purely for moving it around, another set have been straightened and painted silver as per a '69 finish.
The panels were only loosely secured to bring it home. They will be fully aligned in due course.
Cheers,
Dano
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Bituminous soundproofing is in and sealed. Although both inside and underneath of the floors were coated and sealed in a two pack polyurethane (Dominator) product, there was still a metallic resonance evident. 3mm of bitumen certainly made a difference.
The hood lining goes in tomorrow, but before that can happen the wiring loom to the hood light and the upholstery for the A&B pillars had to be installed.
The original vinyl on the pillars was quite thin. Thinner than the upholstery used for the seats. A hood lining material was used, as it was easier to form and glue. As a bonus, it also has the same pattern as the seat material.
Not sure why the original under foam cushioning had a fabric lining, but it was replicated.
The hood lining goes in tomorrow, but before that can happen the wiring loom to the hood light and the upholstery for the A&B pillars had to be installed.
The original vinyl on the pillars was quite thin. Thinner than the upholstery used for the seats. A hood lining material was used, as it was easier to form and glue. As a bonus, it also has the same pattern as the seat material.
Not sure why the original under foam cushioning had a fabric lining, but it was replicated.
Attachments
Spent the last two days putting the hood lining in. Well, yesterday was a bit of a write off with two of my five brothers turning up to have a look at the car. Much mirth and p.ss taking went on. The elder one was a keen Pug man many years ago and stuck around to give me a hand. The other’s mechanical /car interest is very limited and that is talking him up. In his own words, “If a service out of warranty is over $500 dollars, it’s time for a new car”.
First up, massive rookie error when cutting and stitching the lining. The original was used as a template. Great idea! Wrong, someone cut it to the exact size, forgetting that one needs something to pull and tug on when aligning and stretching the fabric into place. 10 very sore and tired fingers and thumbs at present.
The original horse hair/copra sound deadening was reused as I was unsure how well the heavier bituminous sheet would hold up.
Contact cement was used to bond it into place. It is amazing the difference it makes.
As mentioned earlier, not having some excess fabric to tug on did make the task of even loose fitting it difficult. The vinyl lining itself was quite taught, which didn’t help either. To get the hoops to line up, some thin cord was used to pull them either forward or backward as required. The logic used was to start in the middle and work outwards.
The lining was stretched into position and held firmly by multiple clamps.
One can never have enough clamps.
To ensure the lining was glued and held to either side of the seam/flange, thin pine cornice moulding was clamped along either side.
The corners caused a little grief due to the various angles and curves, but again the small clamps and persistent tugging did the trick.
Finished job, just needs a clean.
Windscreen wiper mechanism and heater box installations are next up.
First up, massive rookie error when cutting and stitching the lining. The original was used as a template. Great idea! Wrong, someone cut it to the exact size, forgetting that one needs something to pull and tug on when aligning and stretching the fabric into place. 10 very sore and tired fingers and thumbs at present.
The original horse hair/copra sound deadening was reused as I was unsure how well the heavier bituminous sheet would hold up.
Contact cement was used to bond it into place. It is amazing the difference it makes.
As mentioned earlier, not having some excess fabric to tug on did make the task of even loose fitting it difficult. The vinyl lining itself was quite taught, which didn’t help either. To get the hoops to line up, some thin cord was used to pull them either forward or backward as required. The logic used was to start in the middle and work outwards.
The lining was stretched into position and held firmly by multiple clamps.
One can never have enough clamps.
To ensure the lining was glued and held to either side of the seam/flange, thin pine cornice moulding was clamped along either side.
The corners caused a little grief due to the various angles and curves, but again the small clamps and persistent tugging did the trick.
Finished job, just needs a clean.
Windscreen wiper mechanism and heater box installations are next up.
Attachments
Last edited:
Good job that's not easy
Marty
Marty
Things are heading in the right direction, albeit a little slowly. Well, not as fast as one would like.
Everyone’s usual excuse, life is getting in the way.
Installed so far,
Heater box.
and windscreen wiper mechanism.
Cut circular holes in the bituminous sound proofing to alloy the floor plugs to fit properly.
Using an old dash as an example, the under dash wiring looms were positioned and secured.
Mounted headlight and indicator relays.
Refurbished the windscreen wiper/washer switch unit. Replaced pump and cleaned up the rest.
Connected associated wires to the fuse box plate
Inserted the pedal box assembly
Ran the various engine bay wiring looms through the firewall in preparation for the installation of the dashboard.
Everyone’s usual excuse, life is getting in the way.
Installed so far,
Heater box.
and windscreen wiper mechanism.
Cut circular holes in the bituminous sound proofing to alloy the floor plugs to fit properly.
Using an old dash as an example, the under dash wiring looms were positioned and secured.
Mounted headlight and indicator relays.
Refurbished the windscreen wiper/washer switch unit. Replaced pump and cleaned up the rest.
Connected associated wires to the fuse box plate
Inserted the pedal box assembly
Ran the various engine bay wiring looms through the firewall in preparation for the installation of the dashboard.
Attachments
Good Lord. If you need a hug and a cup of tea, I am here for you DOC.
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Should I edit and suggest, when you need a hug? Superb Dan, I dips my hat to you.
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The latest odd jobs attempted or finished.
Brake callipers and pads fitted.
Front brake lines/pipes connected and booster trial fitted. Two new flexible hoses between the booster and lines were required. The previously purchased hoses had female fittings both ends, instead of a male and female. A local brake repair shop removed a female fitting off each hose and installed male fittings. The up side is, the hoses became shorter and a neater fit.
Think I have averted a potential rear brake problem. When checking/confirming with a fellow Frogger/Colin, about removing the relief valve from the master cylinder. He reminded me of the relief valve set up within the four way brass union on the cross member.
When refurbishing it, I did not see or could not feel any form of relief valve setup within the housing. A spare union was inspected and it too, show no evidence of the valve. When cleaning the internal passage for the rear wheels of the spare union, the fine brush became snagged on something. It would not move forward or backwards. A squirt of ‘Brakcleen’ eventually helped to release the brush. Something was moving, so a fine point probe was carefully use to prod around. There was the slightest movement, although not smoothly. The whole union was soaked in ‘Brakcleen’. With a little more probing and brushwork, the valve or whatever it is, started to move freely. Approximately 3mm of spring movement was obtained. The already installed union was removed and on inspection, it had no movement either. It was rectified and reinstalled. I hope that this will prevent the rear shoes bonding/dragging.
The dashboard frame has gone in.
Over the years, all the NOS firewall grommets had been acquired.
The only ones not available were the ones for the air vent drainpipes and the heater inlet and outlet pipes. Alternative replacements that looked the part were modified. They are rubber science jar/bottle stoppers. The existing 6mm holes were drilled out to 20mm. With the use of a lathe and a Tenon saw, the mounting slots were inserted.
Steering column has been installed.
Originally, the plan was to design and produce a mould, which would enable the mass-production of right hand drive, steering column boots. In the end, it was just getting to difficult and expensive. Thus the development of the Mark ll designed. It is a 5 part, glue together number. It was fabricated using 3mm Nitrile rubber, which has good heat and petrochemical resistant qualities. Loctite - 408 adhesive was also used, due to its similar resistance qualities and semi flexible nature. Downside is, it runs like water and a little messy to use.
The concertina boot is off a Jet Ski throttle cable assembly.
The fabricated boot, allows free movement of the gear selector, so happy with that.
A new clutch master to slave cylinder fluid line has been fabricated. Conjured up jigs were used to help with the forming process. Initially tried boiling water to make the tubing flexible, but it was not as effective as hoped. In the end, a hot air gun was used to soften the tubing.
Finally, settled on Maxxis tyres for the car. Have had them fitted to my wife’s Mazda 6 and they gave good wear and handling etc. Time will tell, if I have done the right thing. They were $118 each, which included fitting and tubes. They are yet to be balanced, but I think I have that sorted.
Next up, is re-kitting the doors.
Brake callipers and pads fitted.
Front brake lines/pipes connected and booster trial fitted. Two new flexible hoses between the booster and lines were required. The previously purchased hoses had female fittings both ends, instead of a male and female. A local brake repair shop removed a female fitting off each hose and installed male fittings. The up side is, the hoses became shorter and a neater fit.
Think I have averted a potential rear brake problem. When checking/confirming with a fellow Frogger/Colin, about removing the relief valve from the master cylinder. He reminded me of the relief valve set up within the four way brass union on the cross member.
When refurbishing it, I did not see or could not feel any form of relief valve setup within the housing. A spare union was inspected and it too, show no evidence of the valve. When cleaning the internal passage for the rear wheels of the spare union, the fine brush became snagged on something. It would not move forward or backwards. A squirt of ‘Brakcleen’ eventually helped to release the brush. Something was moving, so a fine point probe was carefully use to prod around. There was the slightest movement, although not smoothly. The whole union was soaked in ‘Brakcleen’. With a little more probing and brushwork, the valve or whatever it is, started to move freely. Approximately 3mm of spring movement was obtained. The already installed union was removed and on inspection, it had no movement either. It was rectified and reinstalled. I hope that this will prevent the rear shoes bonding/dragging.
The dashboard frame has gone in.
Over the years, all the NOS firewall grommets had been acquired.
The only ones not available were the ones for the air vent drainpipes and the heater inlet and outlet pipes. Alternative replacements that looked the part were modified. They are rubber science jar/bottle stoppers. The existing 6mm holes were drilled out to 20mm. With the use of a lathe and a Tenon saw, the mounting slots were inserted.
Steering column has been installed.
Originally, the plan was to design and produce a mould, which would enable the mass-production of right hand drive, steering column boots. In the end, it was just getting to difficult and expensive. Thus the development of the Mark ll designed. It is a 5 part, glue together number. It was fabricated using 3mm Nitrile rubber, which has good heat and petrochemical resistant qualities. Loctite - 408 adhesive was also used, due to its similar resistance qualities and semi flexible nature. Downside is, it runs like water and a little messy to use.
The concertina boot is off a Jet Ski throttle cable assembly.
The fabricated boot, allows free movement of the gear selector, so happy with that.
A new clutch master to slave cylinder fluid line has been fabricated. Conjured up jigs were used to help with the forming process. Initially tried boiling water to make the tubing flexible, but it was not as effective as hoped. In the end, a hot air gun was used to soften the tubing.
Finally, settled on Maxxis tyres for the car. Have had them fitted to my wife’s Mazda 6 and they gave good wear and handling etc. Time will tell, if I have done the right thing. They were $118 each, which included fitting and tubes. They are yet to be balanced, but I think I have that sorted.
Next up, is re-kitting the doors.
Attachments
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- Joined
- Aug 2, 2000
- Messages
- 11,441
Not a relief valve but a line pressure valve. It places a very small pressure in the system, probably to make sure the cup lips are sitting correctly. Only needed for drum brakes, if used on discs they will stick on, so it is removed from the master cylinder on a 4 wheel drum braked car and placed in the line to the rear. If you don't use it you may have trouble getting a good brake pedal feel, sometimes works OK without it.
Good work!
So this little valve was in the rear line only? I of course don't have front discs so mine looks different (shorter) and so I believe mine is just a splitter and nothing else.
So this little valve was in the rear line only? I of course don't have front discs so mine looks different (shorter) and so I believe mine is just a splitter and nothing else.
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Help to identify which one?
I have to header pipes ( neither are labelled), but not sure which one to use. According to the parts manual, my '69 should have three mufflers. If this is correct, I guessing the shorter pipes is the correct one.
Also would the longer leader pipes create a better exhaust flow?
Appreciate any feed back.
Cheers,
Dano
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- Joined
- Aug 2, 2000
- Messages
- 11,441
Yes, just a splitter
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2000
- Messages
- 11,441
Top one is for 504 won't fit 404 without modification. If it happens to fit the 404 (unlikely) then it is an aftermarket device built to a different design.
69 model should have three mufflers. I think the 67 model (first model to have the twin pipes) may have had two.
Does anyone have a spare 404 twin pipe setup? Looking to convert my 66 model, I have a manifold from a 504.
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Been using my 'shedsolation' time wisely.
The stainless steel trims have been repaired and polished. The ones on the trailing edge of the roof and the gutters are NOS, but still required some minor repairs.
A small craft, cross-peen hammer was ground and polished to enable the tapping out of dents.
The cavity at the back of the trims is less than 10mm wide, which made things awkward. A selection of 30 x 5mm off cuts of mild steel were cobbled into various dollies to help with the dent removal. It is a time consuming process, akin to cleaning windows, just when you think it is done, you find another blemish.
The gutter trims were pesky things to reinstall and unfortunately, some minor damage occurred. Nothing to serious, just more filing and polishing of stainless steel.
The doors have been refurbished with new seals, pinch mould, window winders, interior handles, button springs and backing washers. The locking mechanisms, strikers and stays were cleaned and re-zinced. The stay's rubber rebound washers were re-fabricated New roll pins were installed in the hinges and the locks have been keyed alike.
I have used Whiting to clean and polish out fine imperfections in glass for a while now, it delivers good results. It can be purchased from most art supply stores. It is mixed with water to the consistency of toothpaste and applied with a soft cloth and elbow grease.
The gearbox went in on Wednesday and the engine today.
Somewhere in the shed are the dowels that align the bell housing to the motor. Stuffed if I know which box though. Gave up looking and turned up two new ones on the lathe. Should have done it in the first place, would have saved a lot of wasted time.
By the end of the weekend, I am hoping to have the engine ancillary items installed and the handbrake cables attached and adjusted.
Cheers,
Dano
The stainless steel trims have been repaired and polished. The ones on the trailing edge of the roof and the gutters are NOS, but still required some minor repairs.
A small craft, cross-peen hammer was ground and polished to enable the tapping out of dents.
The cavity at the back of the trims is less than 10mm wide, which made things awkward. A selection of 30 x 5mm off cuts of mild steel were cobbled into various dollies to help with the dent removal. It is a time consuming process, akin to cleaning windows, just when you think it is done, you find another blemish.
The gutter trims were pesky things to reinstall and unfortunately, some minor damage occurred. Nothing to serious, just more filing and polishing of stainless steel.
The doors have been refurbished with new seals, pinch mould, window winders, interior handles, button springs and backing washers. The locking mechanisms, strikers and stays were cleaned and re-zinced. The stay's rubber rebound washers were re-fabricated New roll pins were installed in the hinges and the locks have been keyed alike.
I have used Whiting to clean and polish out fine imperfections in glass for a while now, it delivers good results. It can be purchased from most art supply stores. It is mixed with water to the consistency of toothpaste and applied with a soft cloth and elbow grease.
The gearbox went in on Wednesday and the engine today.
Somewhere in the shed are the dowels that align the bell housing to the motor. Stuffed if I know which box though. Gave up looking and turned up two new ones on the lathe. Should have done it in the first place, would have saved a lot of wasted time.
By the end of the weekend, I am hoping to have the engine ancillary items installed and the handbrake cables attached and adjusted.
Cheers,
Dano
Looking amazing. Putting me to shame. Must try harder!
Andrew
Andrew
That's just wonderful, referring to the 9 January posts showing the shell painted etc.
I had "flattener" added to the two-pack when the Renaults were painted, to get the lustre closer to Duco. I reckon with a white car like yours, it won't make so much difference and it will be superb! Now for the newer posts.
- - - Updated - - -
It would put most of us to shame... Wow.
I had "flattener" added to the two-pack when the Renaults were painted, to get the lustre closer to Duco. I reckon with a white car like yours, it won't make so much difference and it will be superb! Now for the newer posts.
- - - Updated - - -
It would put most of us to shame... Wow.
