69 404 restoration

The rear half of the exhaust system and rear shock absorbers were installed today, in preparation for installation of the rear end. In would have gone in, expect I did not have/couldn’t find the replacement 12x60mm bolts and nuts for the panhard bar.

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Dug out the wheels and inflated the tyres to see if they would still hold air. After 7 years, two had some air pressure in them and the other two were flat.

These are the wheels, which were on the car originally. They were too badly bent or buckled to repair, but will do for moving the car around and getting it back down on the ground.

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Another set have been spun/straighten and repainted in silver two pack in readiness to be used as the road wheels.

Some time back, the steering rack was overhauled and could be turn freely by simply twist the yoke on the input shaft. Now in the car, it is quite notchy and will not turn freely. Either by turning the yoke or by forcing the tyre back and fore. The rack and ball joints were greased, when overhauled same goes for the turntable bearings in the top of the struts. Any suggests as to what could be going on, before I rip the rack out to have a look.​
 

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Hi Robmac,

Yes, I have replaced both the fuel line (6MM ID) and all the hydraulic pipes/lines. The fuel tank is a NOS item as well, so there should be no scale build up blocking filters etc... when the time comes.

Cheers,

Dan
 
Hi Robmac,

Yes, I have replaced both the fuel line (6MM ID) and all the hydraulic pipes/lines. The fuel tank is a NOS item as well, so there should be no scale build up blocking filters etc... when the time comes.

Cheers,

Dan

Tsk Tsk the fuel line was originally 6mm od.

But I've always thought that 8mm would be better.

You are going to need 8mm when you fit the chev v8 anyway. :roflmao:
 
Whoops, I meant OD.

OK, so originality is still trumps
And the V8 idea has been put on hold :roflmao:

Dano, your resto work and your quest to maintain originality is just so good one has regularly to stir the pot. :wink2:

You are creating a brand new 404.
 
Robmac
All good my friend.
It will have half the V8, if a 45 degree slant 4 counts?
Just picked up 12 new wheel nuts. Originals were stretched and deformed...
Dano
 
Arrrrgggghhhhhh!!!!!!!

So close, yet so far...

The rear end would have gone in today and Keith would have touched the ground for the first time in just over 7 year, but Murphy's law prevailed.

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Turns out, I was two, spring seats (Rubber rings) short for the rear coils. With born optimism, a number of suppliers were contacted in the vain hope some could be found. Now it is a 8-10 day wait for them to arrive from France.

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Ah well, to quote Ned Kelly, "Such is life"
 
We are all feeling your frustration Dano.
 
It looks a little different today.

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It happened!

Keith finally touched the ground for the first time in 7 years and 15 days yesterday.

The replacement spring seats/rubbers arrived Tuesday. It only took 8 days for them to arrive from Serie04, in France.
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I have decided to run Penrite oils throughout.

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As experience is a wise teacher, so I ensured that the diff plugs/bungs were tightened. Diffs go bang in a big way, when the plug falls out and they run dry.


Prior to raising/inserting the axle assembly, the torque tube was mounted into place, using the rear gearbox mount and a series of long bolts to hold it in place. Due the configuration the 404's coil spring rear suspension, the gearbox mount and torque tube are all that stops the axle etc. moving backwards and forwards.

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The springs etc. were positioned and the rear end was raised into place. The panhard rod, shock absorbers and sway bar where all secured.


The flexible brake hose, between the body and torque tube was fitted, as were the rear handbrake cables, hydraulic limiter valve and the valves tension spring set.

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Then came the removal of the rotisserie. This was not as difficult as I thought it would be, but still a nervous time.

Finally the lowering. A picture/video tells a thousand words and my elation.

https://youtu.be/7ivgVzIkksk


The following two links are time delay videos of the day’s work.

https://youtu.be/VgadoMuOQAk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBUIx9fNWHg
 

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Fantastic work, Dan! A momentous event, certainly one worthy of celebration. I love the touchdown video!
 
Absolutely stunning.

A 404 better assembled than it was in the factory in 1969. :thanks:
 
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Dano.
Not wanting to get into too much discussion re worm drive diff oil.
Is the illustrated "Penrite Mild EP" compatible with recommended worm drive diffs with bronze worm ? Cost per litre?
I ask because some of the old favourites ie Castrol STH 140 are difficult to obtain unless in commercial quantities. One of the older Peugeot dealers here used to use Castrol R vegie oil. Shell also do an oil suitable, I've forgotten the type. Had the smell of Castrol R about it. Aaahhh!
Back in the day Leyland trucks with worm drive used a Caltex "Marfak"? 140 oil !

I'm aware that a mineral gear oil can be used at a pinch provided the diff is flushed out. Now who is going to bother with this eh ?
 
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Dano.
Not wanting to get into too much discussion re worm drive diff oil.
Is the illustrated "Penrite Mild EP" compatible with recommended worm drive diffs with bronze worm ? Cost per litre?
I ask because some of the old favourites ie Castrol STH 140 are difficult to obtain unless in commercial quantities. One of the older Peugeot dealers here used to use Castrol R vegie oil. Shell also do an oil suitable, I've forgotten the type. Had the smell of Castrol R about it. Aaahhh!
Back in the day Leyland trucks with worm drive used a Caltex "Marfak"? 140 oil !

I'm aware that a mineral gear oil can be used at a pinch provided the diff is flushed out. Now who is going to bother with this eh ?

Aaaahhh!!! Indeed. Such an evocative smell. Hope all's well in your camp too. Cheers.
 
Much better to use Castrol R40. This is available from Demon Tweeks in the UK. You don't get bronze filings in the diff with this. The mild EP is just a mineral oil with less additives, equivalent roughly to ST140 etc. The R40 Castor based oil gives less wear and less friction.
 
Hi Wildebeest,

Yep, oil, brake fluids and for the fact, just about anything associated with cars there are many and varied ideas out there. Not for a moment, am I saying anyone is wrong, it is just eventually you have to make a decision based on what you have read, heard and seen.

Sometime back, when it was going to be an 18mth project (?) I did ring around the oil companies and pester their technical divisions for info on the right oil, for the bronze worm drive configuration. One thing I did know, from owning a few older Pugs and working on them for a few years way back when, that the right diff oil was important.

Anyhow, I eventually settled Penrite, as their Tech, I spoke with on a couple of occasions and for some considerable time, impressed me with his knowledge, patience and just general help. At the onset of our discussions, he was aware the right oil issues. Again, not saying the others did not know their stuff, but I just felt more informed after chatting to him.

From memory, back in the early 80’s Ron Milne Motors and Maxim Motors were both using a Castrol oil, but do not remember the product name.

Robmac, thanks for the Supercheap link, I had not seen it in my research, but there is a story to go with it. About 2 weeks ago, I rang Penrite’s sales department, to see if they could tell me which of their retailers might have some in stock. They could not tell me, as they were experiencing computer issues. (I could hear the person, tapping away on the keyboard and getting frustrated with the system.) We gave up and I rang the local Supercheap store knowing that they carry Penrite products.

It went something like this. No, we do not stock it, but we can get it in. However, you will have to buy a six-pack carton, as it is a special order. No problems, as I plan to flush the diff after a short period anyhow, even though it is a new NOS worm and drive wheel etc., plus I have the 203 with a new diff centre as well.

How much? $257.99, plus a delivery charge for the special order (?). I just about had heart failure. Thanks, but not at that price, I thought. The assistant offered to look into the Penrite database to see if another local retailer had individual bottles. Yep, Autobarn in the next suburb showed two. Called to check. No sorry mate, but I can order it for you. Same story, six bottle … OK, how much? $22.99 per 1LTR bottle or $125.94 for the carton. Sorry mate, it isn't cheap. True, but it was still $132.05 less.

It just pays to ring around.

To be perfect honest, I think with a new diff and a constant oil being used, it will see me out.

Cheers,

Dano
 
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