Many thanks, David
2.0 HDI C5 won't start
- Thread starter Ron McGr
- Start date
So you are blaming the car
Thank you Seasink. I do know a lot about Citroen 5CV's. Learnt to drive one when I was 9, way back in 1958, and I kept that car running until I left high school. Re shod the brakes, made universal joints, fixed a busted diff and so it goes. On another note, I have just finished rebuilding a camper trailer for my Daughter and Grand kids to use on there holidays. Now I have a 1968 Fiat 2300 that needs work. I love the support that you can get from this forum.
BTW the C5 is running like a clock, again.
These are my two vintage cars, both rare in their own right.
Sorry Guys, the one on the left is Italian
Sorry Guys, the one on the left is Italian
Not many 2300 still running. Well done Ron
They're gorgeous
Hi David,
Now that the fuel problem is fixed, I jacked up the front of the car and ran it in fwd, with the hand brake slightly on, to give an (under load) impression. The drivers side was fine, but the passenger side which has recently had a new drive shaft fitted, was a different story. The drive shat looked okay, but it sounded lumpy as it rotated and the vehicle shook at the same time. What ever the "flapping wheel" feeling is definitely the passenger side. Now I'm wondering if it is a bearing problem at the diff?
It is more likely the 'new' used(?) driveshaft has a displaced part in the inner joint and it is now being jammed between the joint and the housing. If it was overextended during fitting, this can happen. You might note it trying to push the wheel outwards a fraction at one point as you turn it slowly. Removing the driveshaft would be the most reliable way to check it and the other parts.
David, the drive shaft was brand new from https://afdriveshafts.com.au/brand/1-af-drive-shafts.
It was fitted a couple of weeks ago by Euroserve Motors in Newstead, QLD. Those guys are very good. I guess I should take it back to them. I would have thought they'd tell me if something was amiss when they put the new shaft in.
OK. Maybe, some other issue then if you are sure of the new driveshaft. There aren't too many options though. Buckled rim? Bent hub? Brake disc issue? Even loose wheel bolts or a failing tyre can happen? Diff bearing seems unlikely, but not impossible.
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Wheel is not bent and rotates without movement. Wheel nuts are tight wheel bearing appears to be good. Tyre is good.
The drive shaft had no free movement in it, before it was put in the car.
I replaced the shaft as the inner CV joint was busted, dirt in the joint and I assumed the "shudder" on acceleration was the drive shaft.
I was quite stunned when it still shuddered with the new one in place. Obviously the old one was still okay.
History on it. Last November, driving back from the north coast at 110kph, I noticed a slight shudder from the right hand front, when I accelerated.
Coasting at any speed was fine.
Over a period of time, it just got worse, and is now quite violent when taking off.
Even driving at a walking pace, you hear a clicking, grinding sound and it feels, for a better word, "lumpy".
That is why I'm thinking inner bearing, or worse. Oddly no oil leaks and the auto works, so it must have oil in it.
David, this is the drive shaft that went on the car https://afdriveshafts.com.au/dsc5/6...oen-c5-2006-2008-passenger-side-ct-1025l.html
Hi David,
I've just come back from another caravan trip, and have decided to get rid of that C5.
I've found a 2012 C5 2.0 HDi Exclusive with 127,000km on it for a very good price.
I suppose the X7 has similar problems, but at least it has less milage on it, and the same motor.
The older model that I have has done 260,000km and all sorts of things are going wrong with it.
Nothing like starting out with another "money pit"
If the X7 is in good nick it will be the best car you have owned. A huge improvement over the earlier car. The suspension is completely different even though Hydractive is fitted. You also get the very reliable RHH motor (introduced later than the earlier series) and you are still too old for the dreaded Adblue. Auto handbrakes don't turn me on, but they come with Exclusive.
Somewhere round about 160,000 km it will need a catalyst top up, so a fair way off.
Somewhere round about 160,000 km it will need a catalyst top up, so a fair way off.
Looks like the X7 needs a bit of work. The car needs new shock absorbers all round, 4 tyres and front disc pads + upper and lower engine torque mounts.
How expensive will those parts be?
Looks like he is now going to sell it very cheap, so it still maybe a reasonable buy.
How expensive will those parts be?
Looks like he is now going to sell it very cheap, so it still maybe a reasonable buy.
What do you know - I did some of that work this year. Rear discs were about $130, front were about $180. I already had pads, but they are 50ish per end. Labour - I'd guess at 1 hour per wheel. The auto handbrake complicates the rear a bit.
The X7 Exclusive is hydraulic, so they aren't shock absorbers, but hydraulic struts that look like shock absorbers, and are expensive. I can't find a bill. Labour would be similar to a strut change on most cars.
The upper mount on the driver's side is a quick job. The gearbox end is fiddlier. So is the lower torque mount.
Why don't you ring EAI in Sydney, 02 9481 8400, and get an estimate of current parts costs They are able to courier to Qld. If you use a garage there will probably be a margin added.
The X7 Exclusive is hydraulic, so they aren't shock absorbers, but hydraulic struts that look like shock absorbers, and are expensive. I can't find a bill. Labour would be similar to a strut change on most cars.
The upper mount on the driver's side is a quick job. The gearbox end is fiddlier. So is the lower torque mount.
Why don't you ring EAI in Sydney, 02 9481 8400, and get an estimate of current parts costs They are able to courier to Qld. If you use a garage there will probably be a margin added.
Front is double wishbone, with the upper mounted high, like a Merc. The rear is multi-link, again like the Germans. The difference is it is much, much softer while still giving good performance.
Thanks, I call them after Ive picked up the car. Buying it for $1,500. Given it has 140,000km on it the major parts of the car should be good.
