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1998 XM V6 24V Exclusive:

pugrambo

Going slightly mad
The thermostat is quite easy to do but there is a bracket that needs to be bent out of the way to get the bolt and housing out
Make sure the thermostat needs to slide effortlessly through the seal, if it doesn't it will jam and you will overheat
Be very careful with the bleed screws, they are fragile
I'd be interested in the pots
As for the keypad, i'm yet to try it but i have been told you can disconnect it when the car is running and it never needs to be used again
 

wonkipop

Member
i enjoy the astronaut exercise of punching in the countdown code too much to unplug it.
one of the french insanities that does put a grin on my face instead of a frown.

thanks for further advice on potential deadly scenarios with thermostat.
this is turning into a very useful thread of tips.
 

ajm212

Member
i'll check mate. its sitting down the workshop still in the box. mike ordered it in a while back, think he would have ordered the gasket as well but you never know. thanks for the tip.

if you guys do want to see if mike can arrange a batch i still have the plastic one in a box he can use as the reference model again.

usually when they go if the seam splits you get a bit of warning, not a catastrophic failure - more the onset of a gradual decline.
I'd certainly be interested in finding out the cost of getting one like yours made up. Of course it won't be cheap but there are no cheap options. I took a full set of measurements of mine. Then I found this at Xantia007:
Debulleur 1307HJ.jpg
 

Buttercup

Well-known member
I sometimes fabricate stuff in stainless, I have a TIG and lathe..... and some stainless material including various tubes.
I could make a few. If it was 3 or 4 or so at one time the setup would be shared and not too costly.
I would need either an old broken one or a good drawing to work from.

Not really looking for more jobs, but it's the sort of thing I can do....?
 

Buttercup

Well-known member
Ohhhh look, there's a drawing there already!
Except i notice the dimensions are in cm. I work in mm.
I'll have a look and suggest a cost?
 

Buttercup

Well-known member
I just raided my wife's cooking cupboard, and found a very good starting point.
I'll go and look in some kitchenware shops to see if I can find something even closer...
These are about 80mm diameter.
It might not be too expensive.....
20210113_205816.jpg
 

Buttercup

Well-known member
I'm sure there's a bit of latitude with dimensions.
The drawing is very useful for all the significant dimensions. However, I notice a bit of confusion in the drawing,
The side views showing the position of the 2 main tubes... shows them offset 15mm each side of a longitudinal line, ie not tangential. The photo and plan view drawing show them ending on about the same line, and pretty well tangential.
 

Exxemm2

New member
Thats a yes please for a spare lid catch for me too. I have 3 broken lids and recently bought a good one from Marc in UK and still on the boat. Its not a genuine fake burl walnut finish but plain dark grey I suppose same as the keypad etc but i am content just to have a working lid. I can see the 2 locking pins on the current lid catch are laying out at a wide angle so I am suspecting they have been damaged by top down pressure during the time the lid has been missing. Thanks very much wonkipop how do we do the deal?
 

Exxemm2

New member
Nice construction drawing thanks AJM212 do these swirl pot thingys have no internals no vanes no baffles or are they just empty space.
Seems very uncitroen to leave space unfilled.
 

Exxemm2

New member
Im looking for advice please my 98 XM2 ES9J4 has developed an alternator fault. The alternator warning light comes on and the climate control lights goes out during normal city driving. If I increase engine rpm above 2500 the warning light goes out and the climate control comes on and sometimes both flicker and that is particularly annoying. The multimeter across the battery while running shows no charge from the alternator so Im thinking my alternator has chucked it in. The occasional short period of apparent correct operation no warning lamps throws me a bit and I wonder if there might be a loose connection or regulator issue instead. Any thoughts please? Any advice on what alternator replacement I should look for? I dont know what to buy its hard to see any codes on the existing alternator. I can see it is Valeo so i suppose that it has replaced the original Mitsubishi alternator. My XM2 has done about 280K now.
 

wonkipop

Member
let me talk to mike, he is back from hols soon. dig up the details on who did it, is he still alive and not dead from cov vid etc.
and i don't mean the disease i mean dead from dan. victoria is a damaged state. will find out what it cost us to do. get some details for you, what it was made from etc.
then if you are interested ..... or buttercup can do them.

the degasser (fancy french) is an empty void. a whirlpool is all it is. it literally spins the coolant. hence the angles of pipes in and out and the outlet at top for air to void gas (air)? think that is what it does. would have to re-remember the plumbing. its peculiar to the late engines. prv folks can pull their heads in, you don't have them in your anachronistic engines and its not full of shit in there, any shit. its about the fluid spinning, its not about stopping it spinning. get your engineering brains engaged. its not a petrol tank.

we didn't need any drawings. pretty sure i still have the plastic original. we just gave our man the original and he copied it.
why trust a french draftsman. i wouldn't. high on cheese and drunk on wine when they drew it?
but having said that, drunk as the draughstman was, its pretty accurate, you guys need to learn to read drawings?
the angles look very correct to me.

mr. exxemm send me a pm with your address etc if you want a catch 22.
i dispatched armidillo's today.

and when i run out (which is one more)---- i refound the link to the original seller.
the rest of you can do the international transaction and pay the price for being esoteric.
or pull the plug on your north korean nuclear launch device.
 
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wonkipop

Member
I just raided my wife's cooking cupboard, and found a very good starting point.
I'll go and look in some kitchenware shops to see if I can find something even closer...
These are about 80mm diameter.
It might not be too expensive.....View attachment 129391
they do look like a good basis buttercup.
the one we made was tube with end caps welded on and inlet pipes welded in.
the measuring cups would have only one seam around the middle instead of two - one less weld to fail.
you do not want to get too far outside the diam dimensions as its a tight fit for it down there.
there is space for the two inlet pipes due to their positioning away from or alongside the engine block.
but its attached with a circular clip and is tight against the engine block/heads on the opposing side.
80mm would work.

the original plastic unit is simply two identical plastic moulded tube pieces bonded together at centre.
positioned at angle of twist around the vertical axis to - 1. set up the fluid spin, 2. allow for hose layout and engine space limitations.
 
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Buttercup

Well-known member
Thanks WP.... I'll look for something slightly under size rather than over.
Given that the original plastic would have had significantly thicker wall than the SS cups, so a slightly smaller od could well give correct id.
You stated that the 2 plastic halves of the original were identical.... but the drawing shows the inlet and outlet tubes to be different sizes.... 18 and 22mm.
I guess you were referring to the shape of the shells.
I think it's going to be pretty straightforward......

How many should I plan to make?
 

Armidillo

1000+ Posts
Im looking for advice please my 98 XM2 ES9J4 has developed an alternator fault. The alternator warning light comes on and the climate control lights goes out during normal city driving. If I increase engine rpm above 2500 the warning light goes out and the climate control comes on and sometimes both flicker and that is particularly annoying. The multimeter across the battery while running shows no charge from the alternator so Im thinking my alternator has chucked it in. The occasional short period of apparent correct operation no warning lamps throws me a bit and I wonder if there might be a loose connection or regulator issue instead. Any thoughts please? Any advice on what alternator replacement I should look for? I dont know what to buy its hard to see any codes on the existing alternator. I can see it is Valeo so i suppose that it has replaced the original Mitsubishi alternator. My XM2 has done about 280K now.

Is your hydraulic pump leaking? If oil drips onto the alternator (in the case of my 406, it was a pressure switch for the P/S that was leaking), it will cause premature failure of the alternator.

You may have to feel under the pump to tell if it's leaking - they can look quite dry from above.
 
Thanks WP.... I'll look for something slightly under size rather than over.
Given that the original plastic would have had significantly thicker wall than the SS cups, so a slightly smaller od could well give correct id.
You stated that the 2 plastic halves of the original were identical.... but the drawing shows the inlet and outlet tubes to be different sizes.... 18 and 22mm.
I guess you were referring to the shape of the shells.
I think it's going to be pretty straightforward......

How many should I plan to make?
Put me down for three (3) please. I have two Xantia V6s with ES9J4 and a spare ES9J4 from a series 1 (D8) 406 for a project.

Many thanks.
Robin
 
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