Should hear it running once ignition 1st turned on. No sound and has 12v unit lost its smoke like Lucas units were famous for
2.0 HDI C5 won't start
- Thread starter Ron McGr
- Start date
It doesn't run at all. I'll check the filter and give the price of the new unit, an after market is looking good.
No, the pump unit looked original, covered in dirt and dust. What ever it is it was working very well. The car started immediately and ran very well. I did check the part number on ebay and found this, and many more
Electric fuel pump with part number 9632759780 Used
Used Electric fuel pump Citroen C5 II Break (RE) 2.0 HDiF 16V ↪ 12 months warranty, On request ...
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There is a test procedure (need tooling) to check the low pressure supply and it is testing the vacuum created by the HP fuel pump. If you have a hand held pump with a bowl as can be used for bleeding brakes, you can approximate this test. It's giving expected values that suggest a leak, normal function and a blockage in the supply. 'a' is the filter outlet and 'b' the pipe to the HP pump.
Have you removed the filler cap to let the tank vent?
The parts info could be wrong. It wouldn't be the first time. If you think it has a tank fuel pump, the documentation (generic) suggests it would be powered by supplied via F5 (15A) and pin 5 of connector PP2 at the engine fuse box. Is there a wire there and is the terminal OK?
Have you removed the filler cap to let the tank vent?
The parts info could be wrong. It wouldn't be the first time. If you think it has a tank fuel pump, the documentation (generic) suggests it would be powered by supplied via F5 (15A) and pin 5 of connector PP2 at the engine fuse box. Is there a wire there and is the terminal OK?
Thanks David. I'll give it a go tomorrow. I do have a 12v fuel pump that I could put in line somewhere to just to see if it starts and runs. Any idea where I should break the fuel line?
How much pressure should there be there .... I wouldn't just plug in any pump. It maybe a very low pressure lift pump.
Test the supply upstream of the HP pump using one of these ... this is $200 at Repco, but under $40 will buy one via eBay. Whatever you do, avoid damaging the connectors or pipes as some of them will be NLA. These kits come with a variety of fittings and a rubber cone is probably all you need to draw a vacuum at the filter outlet to begin with.
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The car has now decided to run, but it is knocking badly on three cylinder and the exhaust really stinks. I had put some adblue in the tank as the particle filter ran out. Maybe the diesel has too much adblue? Was running well until it got down to half a tank.
The filter is fine. When the car started it took a bit of coasting to get it to rev without stalling. The fuel smell is very acrid to the nostrils.
The filter is fine. When the car started it took a bit of coasting to get it to rev without stalling. The fuel smell is very acrid to the nostrils.
Noooooo, Ad blue is water based and only gets injected to the Catalytic Converter. It doesn't go through the engine at all.
You need to drain the tank immediately. You are filling up the fuel system with water!!!! NOOOOOO
Get fresh fuel, Clear the line to the fuel filter and fit new fuel filter and try to resusitate the HDI pump and injectors.
And get it done quickly.
Then refill the Eolys tank before the particle filter clogs up.
Ken
You need to drain the tank immediately. You are filling up the fuel system with water!!!! NOOOOOO
Get fresh fuel, Clear the line to the fuel filter and fit new fuel filter and try to resusitate the HDI pump and injectors.
And get it done quickly.
Then refill the Eolys tank before the particle filter clogs up.
Ken
Hang on .... 2010 isnt' ad blue .... Why would you add that .... its completely the wrong stuff!
I have used a little pump to suck all the fuel out. Had a bit of diesel in a jerry, put that in and it purred for a few seconds, then stopped. Need more fuel, then probably have an air lock problem. At least I know it will now run properly. Don't know why I put that crap in the tank. Probably thought it was a cheaper option to the proper stuff.
I use a tractor tyre pressure gauge to test fuel injection lift pump pressure. It is built to handle liquid (water in tyres) and goes up to about 50 PSI, which is enough to know the pump is working OK. And it's much cheaper than purpose-built tools (free if you already have one!).
Roger
Roger
Hopefully, not much was added. It will largely separate as water does below less dense fuel, but there can be a mixed later with crystals. If the Adblue crystallises in the fuel system, you can have major problems. In some case, the piping and components can crack. Aside from just removing the contaminated fuel, you are going to have to remove the gauge unit from the tank (fiddly) to properly clean the tank and flush all the piping. There may be some AdBlue caught in the filler neck, so that may need some extra flushes.
The particle filter Eolys is a separate system and you do not need to touch it unless it has run out and it causes an anti-polluton error. In the C5 it is a rigid tank to be refilled and then the diagnostic tool is required to reset the level. This is now a secondary priority vs removing the Adblue from the fuel system.
The particle filter Eolys is a separate system and you do not need to touch it unless it has run out and it causes an anti-polluton error. In the C5 it is a rigid tank to be refilled and then the diagnostic tool is required to reset the level. This is now a secondary priority vs removing the Adblue from the fuel system.
I attached the pump to the line from the tank, so the pipes are clear. I don't know what gorilla put the top back on the filter housing. I cannot get it open. I used the pump again, to suck the water out of the filter.
The filter has a screw that opens a water drain at the bottom. There is usually a short tube attached to the outlet so you can catch what comes out, and make sure a little fuel floats on top.
Draining is part of a filter service.
Draining is part of a filter service.
Hi guys,
Another drama.
I went out and bought a hexagon 27mm socket to try and undo the fuel filter top.
It simply won't budge!
I've even tried my impact power wrench. It moves the top 1mm, reverse and forward.
Is there some type of locking device on these things?
Another drama.
I went out and bought a hexagon 27mm socket to try and undo the fuel filter top.
It simply won't budge!
I've even tried my impact power wrench. It moves the top 1mm, reverse and forward.
Is there some type of locking device on these things?
It just screws out, but with much effort. Some people use a notched socket for better fit.
The seal is an O ring, that is supplied with the filter, and with time it holds the cap like very tough glue. You may need a breaker bar or similar. I use a length of steel pipe as an extra lever.
When refitting it is essential to oil the new O ring or it will deform and leak. Screwing back on also needs force because of the ring. The longer it stays there the harder it gets.
Do you have any idea when this was last opened?
Later engines, eg RHH, abandoned this system.
The seal is an O ring, that is supplied with the filter, and with time it holds the cap like very tough glue. You may need a breaker bar or similar. I use a length of steel pipe as an extra lever.
When refitting it is essential to oil the new O ring or it will deform and leak. Screwing back on also needs force because of the ring. The longer it stays there the harder it gets.
Do you have any idea when this was last opened?
Later engines, eg RHH, abandoned this system.