My new challenge - 1964 ID19F Safari

Well, the first 1000klm have been clocked up, so time to celebrate with a lunch and rejoining the car with one of its previous owners Tim.

So far no further electrical issues, which is comforting. Going down to second gear still crunches at times, so maybe the syncro is knackered after all. Still one engine oil leak - seems to be the front crankshaft 😩 behind the flywheel… as it is seems to be weeping from the bell housing opening. Maybe a combo repair deal one day…

Anyway, met with a Tim and his Bentley (he is working on a 1958 ID resto), Ferdi with his well known 1962 Heidelberg ID and Rob Belcourt who owns a 1968 (9?) Pallas.

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Bloody iPhone wonkiness…

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Rob was the first passenger to dare to ride in the strapotins for a short trip!

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A great outing. The Safari passed muster being interrogated by the Citroen anoraks 😂.
 
Thank you, Sven. 'Gobsmacked' is all I can really come up with. Not just the end result - which is strikingly beautiful - but your ingenuity and wholly positive tenaciousness in rising to every challenge..seemingly relishing the process the more challenging it became. And, still, you're smiling. The quiet confidence and belief - your demeanour at the end has the optimistic ease that it had when we had that coffee a couple of years ago and you thought you'd give Michael a call about the Safari he'd been carefully storing. An inspiration!

I'm gonna use this example at school:) This was a red letter day, that's for sure. And after two years of the covid work challenges and school closures, you have inspired me - as you have many of us no doubt - to lift my DS19 game! Thank you!
 
Hotrodelectric said:
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I see you guys haven't left Australia...:cheers:

I'm now seriously considering restarting my electrical business. Now that I've gotten over the RHD hump, I think it'll be a lot easier for me. For the opportunity Sven, bottom (top?) of my heart, thank you.
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maybe that’s why the photos are always wonky!? I might try setting it to “northern hemisphere “ - that might fix it 😂

I am sure there would be a queue for new looms of your quality Bill. I would be the first to write a recommendation!

Thanks for the kind words Tim… a DS it is indeed in your garage, not an ID - sorry…
 
bleudanube said:
maybe that’s why the photos are always wonky!? I might try setting it to “northern hemisphere “ - that might fix it 😂

I am sure there would be a queue for new looms of your quality Bill. I would be the first to write a recommendation!

Thanks for the kind words Tim… a DS it is indeed in your garage, not an ID - sorry…
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I was going to say, it's a pity we rolled the car after only a 1000 on the clock! But we seem pretty relaxed about t:)
 
Middlemoon.1 said:
I was going to say, it's a pity we rolled the car after only a 1000 on the clock! But we seem pretty relaxed about t:)
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bleudanube said:
Well, the first 1000klm have been clocked up, so time to celebrate with a lunch and rejoining the car with one of its previous owners Tim.

So far no further electrical issues, which is comforting. Going down to second gear still crunches at times, so maybe the syncro is knackered after all. Still one engine oil leak - seems to be the front crankshaft 😩 behind the flywheel… as it is seems to be weeping from the bell housing opening. Maybe a combo repair deal one day…

Anyway, met with a Tim and his Bentley (he is working on a 1958 ID resto), Ferdi with his well known 1962 Heidelberg ID and Rob Belcourt who owns a 1968 (9?) Pallas.

View attachment 139558View attachment 139559View attachment 139560

Bloody iPhone wonkiness…

View attachment 139561View attachment 139562

Rob was the first passenger to dare to ride in the strapotins for a short trip!

View attachment 139563

A great outing. The Safari passed muster being interrogated by the Citroen anoraks 😂.
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Sven,
I have a question about how you painted your car. I've read your posts and note you went for applying the 2K epoxy primer with a brush to limit the effects of breathing in the stuff. Did that work out well?
What filler/leveler did you use over the primer?
I'm assuming the guy who painted the panels used a 2K epoxy paint system - is that correct?
You also mentioned he had to do a couple of hours of correction on each panel. What were the issues that caused that?
Rob
 
Ramaling said:
Sven,
I have a question about how you painted your car. I've read your posts and note you went for applying the 2K epoxy primer with a brush to limit the effects of breathing in the stuff. Did that work out well?
What filler/leveler did you use over the primer?
I'm assuming the guy who painted the panels used a 2K epoxy paint system - is that correct?
You also mentioned he had to do a couple of hours of correction on each panel. What were the issues that caused that?
Rob
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Rob,

Brushing on the 2K primer was ok for small, hard to see areas like the door bottoms. For visible surfaces and larger areas I sprayed it (like the bonnet).

I used ‘normal’ epoxy filler with hardener, don’t recall the brand, but any paint supplier should be able to guide you.

The panels were then painted with 2K deBeers systems in a booth, I used a solid colour, not clear over base.

I did all the prep work and thought I had the panels good enough for painting, but the painter thought that a little bit more ‘professional levelling’ would improve them a bit more. So he spent about an hour or two more on each. I am very happy with the result and the cost was fair.

The only mistake I made along the way was that I used a rattle can primer just to cover any bare metal spots where I sanded the 2k primer off during the repair work to ensure it isn’t rusting… it had to all be sanded off again before applying the proper paint system. It would not do that again next time…

Sven
 
bleudanube said:
Rob,

Brushing on the 2K primer was ok for small, hard to see areas like the door bottoms. For visible surfaces and larger areas I sprayed it (like the bonnet).

I used ‘normal’ epoxy filler with hardener, don’t recall the brand, but any paint supplier should be able to guide you.

The panels were then painted with 2K deBeers systems in a booth, I used a solid colour, not clear over base.

I did all the prep work and thought I had the panels good enough for painting, but the painter thought that a little bit more ‘professional levelling’ would improve them a bit more. So he spent about an hour or two more on each. I am very happy with the result and the cost was fair.

The only mistake I made along the way was that I used a rattle can primer just to cover any bare metal spots where I sanded the 2k primer off during the repair work to ensure it isn’t rusting… it had to all be sanded off again before applying the proper paint system. It would not do that again next time…

Sven
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Thanks Sven
I guess I am quite concerned about spraying 2K from a health perspective. What type of mask and procedures did you take and did it work out OK? I have been in touch with a sand blasting guy who will do the 2K primer after the blasting and that may be my best route - your thoughts greatly appreciated.
 
Ramaling said:
Thanks Sven
I guess I am quite concerned about spraying 2K from a health perspective. What type of mask and procedures did you take and did it work out OK? I have been in touch with a sand blasting guy who will do the 2K primer after the blasting and that may be my best route - your thoughts greatly appreciated.
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Agree, best to get the sandblaster to do the main priming - that’s the way I went as well.

I used one of those Bunnings twin filter masks - crappy suckers, so I probably breathed in a fair swathe of fumes 😬. All the painting and grinding has probably take a few years off my life by now, but sometimes one needs to compromise - I don’t have a booth, so so just built a cubicle from bedsheets hanging off the ceiling…. Works for small jobs and keeps the overspray somewhat contained. But some ends up on your face and arms… 😬
 
Ramaling said:
Thanks Sven
I guess I am quite concerned about spraying 2K from a health perspective. What type of mask and procedures did you take and did it work out OK? I have been in touch with a sand blasting guy who will do the 2K primer after the blasting and that may be my best route - your thoughts greatly appreciated.
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filter mask will not filter the isocyanates.... you need air fed from a different location. Remember painters googles and painters suite too. Isocyanates will be absorbed by the skin ... and especially the eyes (damp membranes). A temporary booth is easy to setup and air fed masks can be purchased cheaply these days.

The paints with hardeners even make me feel sick to be around as they are curing (over the first few days). I can't paint in my shed now as I'm working out of it and can't be around curing 2pack paints.
 
bleudanube said:
Agree, best to get the sandblaster to do the main priming - that’s the way I went as well.

I used one of those Bunnings twin filter masks - crappy suckers, so I probably breathed in a fair swathe of fumes 😬. All the painting and grinding has probably take a few years off my life by now, but sometimes one needs to compromise - I don’t have a booth, so so just built a cubicle from bedsheets hanging off the ceiling…. Works for small jobs and keeps the overspray somewhat contained. But some ends up on your face and arms… 😬
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Sven,
Thank you for your frankness. I will likely build a spray booth. I have the prefabricated walls, roof and floor but I think it will only ever be for spraying 1K.
I'm getting good vibes from the sandblaster/primer and its lifted the cloud of confusion some what
 
While epoxies might not have isocyanates, they are still nasty stuff.
Composite repairers use it all the time, and sensible ones take great care to avoid skin contact and fumes.
 
Buttercup said:
While epoxies might not have isocyanates, they are still nasty stuff.
Composite repairers use it all the time, and sensible ones take great care to avoid skin contact and fumes.
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I'm pretty sure its the activators/hardeners. I've used POR Hardnose in the past, and it made me feel sick, just like anything with an activator/hardener does (as its activated).

If you're living in an urban area, forget trying to spray any activated coating. if you have some space around you, setup a builder plastic spray booth and go for it :dance:
 
DoubleChevron said:
I'm pretty sure its the activators/hardeners. I've used POR Hardnose in the past, and it made me feel sick, just like anything with an activator/hardener does (as its activated).

If you're living in an urban area, forget trying to spray any activated coating. if you have some space around you, setup a builder plastic spray booth and go for it :dance:
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I don't really understand the chemistry of epoxy paints. For example I use a lot of Dulux Metal Shield Epoxy paint. It's a 1K and doessn't have any weird epoxy catalyst smells.
I have taken to believe its those compounds that are 2K and use hardeners that are an issue. I guess like Araldite. If its in an aerosol paint form then that's when problems start.
 
Ramaling said:
I don't really understand the chemistry of epoxy paints. For example I use a lot of Dulux Metal Shield Epoxy paint. It's a 1K and doessn't have any weird epoxy catalyst smells.
I have taken to believe its those compounds that are 2K and use hardeners that are an issue. I guess like Araldite. If its in an aerosol paint form then that's when problems start.
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If you mix a hardener/activater (not thinners) into the paint, I'm sure it'll have isocyanates. If you can buy an air fed mask ... and have an area where you won't poison your neighbours and family.... its a no brainer. The modern coatings are wwwwwaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyy better than any of the un-activated paints.
 
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