I am
Pretty sure it shorted out at the joiner I added to add the driver side interior light. I moved the join to the outside of the cross bar section that holds the light - that should work….
My new challenge - 1964 ID19F Safari
- Thread starter bleudanube
- Start date
Pretty sure it shorted out at the joiner I added to add the driver side interior light. I moved the join to the outside of the cross bar section that holds the light - that should work….
Don't feel bad. Stuff happens. Like I said, it's a restoration, they do that. The important thing is you found the cause and can now move on. Before you replace the glovebox though, make sure the wire in the main portion (the gray front loom) isn't burned. If you REALLY have to, return it to me, I'll get it fixed.
Did you really replace 25 metres of wire?...
Although I finished repairing the loom yesterday, I didn’t get it quite fully back in the car…
I replaced probably 25m of wires all up, just to be sure. Rewrapped the whole thing (what a job…) and started shoving it back in.
...
I don't think that would be too hard to do running round the roof of a Safari?
Last car I fully rewired was only 12' long and very basic: lights, blinkers, horn, wiper motor and dash which has 2 electronic gauges and 4 warning lights. It took just over 80m of wire to complete, and it has no windscreen washers, no reversing lights, no radio and no dome light.
I read an "average" new car (whatever average is) now has 1600m of wiring in it.
A Dr that my wife works with had a brand new BMW Mini stored at their holiday home on one of the islands in the bay. The local rodent population got into it and the entire loom had to be replaced at a cost of $15K. They had another new car in the same garage and it was left completely untouched.
Yep, about 4 wires were affected by the one burnt one as they were melted together and I didn’t want to risk that somewhere I miss some insulation being damaged and I have to do it again.
Bill, the front grey loom seems fine, I couldn’t find any evidence that the short spread into that one. I changed the fuse to an 8A one I had for now… more are on order in different amperages.
Removed and rebuilt the pump this morning (again). Getting faster at it… 2 hrs all done: my o-ring was still intact, but I removed it, sanded the bearing and bush surfaces with 2000grit oiled and reinstalled it. Pump pumps, accumulator cycles again and all system are running! Off to a test drive soon.
Also built myself a little holder for my oil can - fits well and matches the car.
Let’s see what fails next…
Bill, the front grey loom seems fine, I couldn’t find any evidence that the short spread into that one. I changed the fuse to an 8A one I had for now… more are on order in different amperages.
Removed and rebuilt the pump this morning (again). Getting faster at it… 2 hrs all done: my o-ring was still intact, but I removed it, sanded the bearing and bush surfaces with 2000grit oiled and reinstalled it. Pump pumps, accumulator cycles again and all system are running! Off to a test drive soon.
Also built myself a little holder for my oil can - fits well and matches the car.
Let’s see what fails next…
Pretty close. Out the firewall and down the passenger side "A" post, along the frame rail to the "B" post, up the post towards the roof rail, around the roof rail to the rear, and on towards the driver's "B" post. All this x2. Add in for the pigtails for all 3 sockets (about 1 foot each). Might not have been 25 meters total (I didn't measure it, I just built it), but yah, not very far off that.
What you don't realize is a D sedan rear harness is merely difficult to replace. The D wagon rear is diabolical. I got it immediately when Sven mentioned how he didn't know how an assembly worker at the plant could get one installed in just a couple of minutes!
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Heh heh, reminds of when I used to run hotted up old Holden's with banjo diffs.
I used to carry a "diff kit" in the boot in an old milk crate; diff centre and gasket x 1, ratchet handles, extension bars and 1/2" sockets x 2, 7/16" spanner x 1, 1L of oil and one axle stand.
From bang to go, 45 mins on my own and 30 mins if a mate was with me (hence why I carried the two 1/2" sockets).
So you just had to say that, had to rub it in.....and it has no windscreen washers, no reversing lights, no radio and no dome light.
Sorry Sven.So you just had to say that, had to rub it in.....
I built the loom for lightness so removed everything that was not a legal requirement for the year of manufacture..
It did originally have a little light on the B pillar with an on/off switch, no door switches.
The entire loom with battery cables, fuse box, flasher unit and all weighs 900 grams.
I fitted LEDs wherever possible so most of the lighting cable is only 5 amp. Relocated all the switchgear, battery etc to make the cable runs as short as possible.
The attached photo is some of what was in it, which is why I rewired it.
I'd repurposed some bits and pieces by the time I took the photo, there was enough to fill a 10L bucket (which weighed just over 10kg when I first stripped it out).
Attachments
Looks like it was a good job to start over anyway. That looks to be a bit of a hash. I don't look so much for light weight rather than reliability over what would have been some large systems. Such as the '59 Chevy Suburban that was turned into a handicap van with a Caddy Northstar sidewinder V8, and, as the customer requested, equipped like a new Cadillac.Sorry Sven.
I built the loom for lightness so removed everything that was not a legal requirement for the year of manufacture..
It did originally have a little light on the B pillar with an on/off switch, no door switches.
The entire loom with battery cables, fuse box, flasher unit and all weighs 900 grams.
I fitted LEDs wherever possible so most of the lighting cable is only 5 amp. Relocated all the switchgear, battery etc to make the cable runs as short as possible.
The attached photo is some of what was in it, which is why I rewired it.
I'd repurposed some bits and pieces by the time I took the photo, there was enough to fill a 10L bucket (which weighed just over 10kg when I first stripped it out).
I agree, but horses for courses.
The vehicle my loom went in currently weighs 340kg with a 1/2 tank of fuel, so getting rid of 9kgs of crap and tidying it up at the same time was a win, win in my eyes.
It's been in there 6 years without a hiccup, so has been reliable too.
I have an old 1972 F100 ambulance that has survived intact (lights, siren etc). There is an awful lot of extra wiring and the way it was all fitted is average at best. Having said that, everything still works some 50 years later so.
@bleudanube, curious what tires (tyres?) youve fitted to your break? Mine came with michelin defenders and they're large enough to scrape when making tight turns, and my speedo reads about 10% too low. Am contemplating at least changing the front... thanks
I went for a full set of original Michelin X tyres in 165x400. - not cheap, but they fit, look the part and squeal like a pig going around corners quickly… good fun! About Aud$400 each…
Perfecto - I'm thinking similar. Currently wearing Michelin Defender 215/70R15 and they squeal when attempting to park. Not nearly as much fun!
What year was you Safari? 1966? The width would have increased to 185x400 by then - October 64 was the changeover month.
Uhhhh?
Where did you get this info Sven?
My limited resources tell me that Safari had 165 x 400 X on wider (185) rims until Oct '64, then 165 x 400 XA2 until Sept '65, when they went to 380mm rims (15" 5J with 5 studs) with 180 x 380 XAS. 5 1/2J rims started in Oct '68.
'66 yes, thanks for the info. Same front & rear I presume due to lack of mention?
As to information above... would it have mattered location of manufacture? Presuming you guys have RHD cars, mine LHD from Javel though a USA export model.
As to information above... would it have mattered location of manufacture? Presuming you guys have RHD cars, mine LHD from Javel though a USA export model.
In Aus 1st front Safaris were either Slough or Javel. After about '61 they were all Javel, except for a couple of private imports.
I assume yours has 15" (380mm) 5J wheels, so any comparison of tyres between that and earlier ones is not relevant.
Your 215 /70 x 15 are, in my opinion, too wide, and too low.
I would suggest that a taller narrower tyre, as close to original as possible, would be much better.
While I like originality, budget and practicality are also important.
I don't think $500 per tyre is reasonable, so I chose the nearest available in the $100 to $200 range.
Currently that's 195/80 15, in a passenger tyre. Even these are not common, and I would consider a van or light truck tyre for the front of a Dee.
On the rear of a saloon I think 175/80 15 Is good, and maybe on the Safari you would go with the 195/80 15, the same as the front.
It all depends on what's available and how much you want to spend.
Thanks - not trying to hijack the thread but this has basically become the awesome break thread (well done Sven)! These are diffinitely too wide, they run when trying to make 3-point turns, otherwise I’d wait a bit. They’re in good shape and probably have years of life on them so maybe can sell, but they frankly make it hard to drive in the city and that’s no good. If I can’t park, I can’t go many places…
Yes, about 30 years ago I was waaaay outback in my D Super, in need of a tyre or 2, and all I could get in the little town (population 500) in 15" was 205/70 15.
To maintain a degree of balance I got 2.
They only stayed on the car until I got home, where I could get the right size.
They rubbed on steering lock, so I can imagine that with yours being another 10 wider, it would be very frustrating.
To maintain a degree of balance I got 2.
They only stayed on the car until I got home, where I could get the right size.
They rubbed on steering lock, so I can imagine that with yours being another 10 wider, it would be very frustrating.