brake cylinder bleed nipples

[gerrypro]

View attachment 138485

The lower balljoint cover .... it looks like its not just a cover.. it contains the balljoint and has shims that must shim the balljoint slop out.

View attachment 138487View attachment 138490

The special tool for the lower balljoints. These are the ones my father couldn't get out ... er 20years ago.

View attachment 138489

Who out there owns a 29mm socket ?? I figure this is shifter size. fortunately its only finger tight .... and doesn't contain a split pin even. So i just used a 30mm socket on them.
View attachment 138488

the tool is quite a smart design, the back screw allows you to angle it so your pushing straight against the ball.

View attachment 138486

This is as far as I got before the puller bottomed out. The other side tighted up as it finally came off, and this side it tight to the very end as well. I'm guessing the end of the shaft must be a bit damaged from previous extraction attempts.

Try again and realign the puller first I do not think that you are quite square to the swivel pin line. Wind a bit more onto the stabilising screw to get more thrust on the ball joint. I have not met the joint that this puller could not move. Sometimes a smart whack on the pressure screw will shock the joint to let go. When it does it will be quite loud!

 

[Buttercup]

Yes, Shane I have a 29mm socket.
The output shaft bearing nuts on a 2CV are 29.
Well, I did have a 29mm socket.
It's now a 29mm tube spanner!

Luckily I do have another which is still a socket.

 

[Buttercup]

View attachment 138485

The lower balljoint cover .... it looks like its not just a cover.. it contains the balljoint and has shims that must shim the balljoint slop out.

View attachment 138487View attachment 138490

The special tool for the lower balljoints. These are the ones my father couldn't get out ... er 20years ago.

View attachment 138489

Who out there owns a 29mm socket ?? I figure this is shifter size. fortunately its only finger tight .... and doesn't contain a split pin even. So i just used a 30mm socket on them.
View attachment 138488

the tool is quite a smart design, the back screw allows you to angle it so your pushing straight against the ball.

View attachment 138486

This is as far as I got before the puller bottomed out. The other side tighted up as it finally came off, and this side it tight to the very end as well. I'm guessing the end of the shaft must be a bit damaged from previous extraction attempts.

If the bolts are not long enough, put a packer under the top bar, to lift it up a bit.

 

[DoubleChevron]

Incidentally, the left-hand brake shoes are fixed by those washers, shims, and split pins that we spoke about!

Yes, I noticed that! I'm going to pull all of that apart and take the springs upto the local brake places and see if they have naything similar note: they aren't all there on this side either.

 

[gerrypro]

Yes, I noticed that! I'm going to pull all of that apart and take the springs upto the local brake places and see if they have naything similar note: they aren't all there on this side either.

Are you short of the required number of return springs? You need one for each brake shoe set. BTW I have quite a few!

 

[DoubleChevron]

Try again and realign the puller first I do not think that you are quite square to the swivel pin line. Wind a bit more onto the stabilising screw to get more thrust on the ball joint. I have not met the joint that this puller could not move. Sometimes a smart whack on the pressure screw will shock the joint to let go. When it does it will be quite loud!

I have used a long straight edge between the ball joints to make sure I'm in line .... I'm thinking the ball joint was already broken, and what I did yesterday was pull it down the shaft. That's why I've run out of adjustment on the tool. I've just tried adding spacers under the tools so it'll continue to pull, but now it's solid and doesn't want to go any further.

I think I need to re-assembled to see if the ball pushes back up into position, if it does then shine a light up there and see if there is any marks on the shaft the ball needs to slide down. If there is I'll need to get a dremel tool up there and clean the shaft up.

I'm running blind here as I have no idea what it looks like in there (and there appears to be no images anywhere on google of a disassembled ball joint so I can see what it should all look like.

 

[Trading Estate]

Definitely wrong David! If a shaft is spinning clockwise as does the right-hand driveshaft, the inertia of the nut means that it will try to stay still so that with a left-hand thread it will tighten and with a right-hand thread it will loosen. Clearly stated in the workshop manual.
A left-hand driveshaft needs a right-hand thread for the same reason.

Exactly ! Thats what I thought yet this explanation is obviously wrong ( Mopar forum maybe?)
Obviously you want the nut to tighten against forward movement. I always remember trying to undo a Toyota Coaster passenger side front wheel which also had reversed threads on the wheel nuts. Eventually got the picture.

 

[gerrypro]

I have used a long straight edge between the ball joints to make sure I'm in line .... I'm thinking the ball joint was already broken, and what I did yesterday was pull it down the shaft. That's why I've run out of adjustment on the tool. I've just tried adding spacers under the tools so it'll continue to pull, but now it's solid and doesn't want to go any further.

I think I need to re-assembled to see if the ball pushes back up into position, if it does then shine a light up there and see if there is any marks on the shaft the ball needs to slide down. If there is I'll need to get a dremel tool up there and clean the shaft up.

I'm running blind here as I have no idea what it looks like in there (and there appears to be no images anywhere on google of a disassembled ball joint so I can see what it should all look like.

Has the crossbar distorted? If so reverse it against the distortion!
Undo the puller and remove the ball joint nut. If the ball drops down with the nut it has already broken the taper.

If the ball is still tight on the taper wind the nut down so that a smaller nut can be placed inside the nut against the end of the taper threads. Level the surfaces up so that the puller thrusts onto the small nut and large nut together and then try the puller again. Do not forget that a heavy whack on the screw that is doing the pushing against the taper will provide a shock that can jar the ball and break the taper seal! I have had to resort to this method before on joints that have never been removed.

 

[DoubleChevron]

Has the crossbar distorted? If so reverse it against the distortion!
Undo the puller and remove the ball joint nut. If the ball drops down with the nut it has already broken the taper.

If the ball is still tight on the taper wind the nut down so that a smaller nut can be placed inside the nut against the end of the taper threads. Level the surfaces up so that the puller thrusts onto the small nut and large nut together and then try the puller again. Do not forget that a heavy whack on the screw that is doing the pushing against the taper will provide a shock that can jar the ball and break the taper seal! I have had to resort to this method before on joints that have never been removed.

That's it ... I've decided this stays together, hopefully I can get the driveshaft out without breaking the lower joint.

There is stays .... just like my father found. No the top of the puller hasn't distorted I've been careful to only use a standard sized 1/2" ratchet bar on it.

This is the biggest problem though I'm damaging your puller and I hadn't noticed.

If I go back to the picture before I started using the puller on this side......See the back thread on the puller. How shiny the thread is on just the one bolt.. That is from winding the bolt in and out once on the other side (I think the ball was already broken over there, it just pulled straight of with no effort)... I didn't realise (as you can't see it when its on the car). The thread is munching itself every time you wind it in out and.... and I've probably run it in and out 1dozen times since then.

I'm worried it'll be unusable to you if I run it in out out another few times, so I'm not going to try again. Re-cutting the threads might work now, but not if keep winding it in and out until it strips.

I did pull it down as tight as I could get it with a 1/2" ratchet last night (which is *very* tight) .... and gave it a good few heavy whacks with a heavy hammer.... then left it overnight hoping I'd find it apart when I went out there today, but no such luck.

 

[gerrypro]

Oh, Dear! I guess the only fix is a new larger-diameter high tensile bolt and a recut of the threads in the body of the puller.

 

[DoubleChevron]

Oh, Dear! I guess the only fix is a new larger-diameter high tensile bolt and a recut of the threads in the body of the puller.

This is why I hate borrowing stuff ...... I break everything! Its been a good weekend. Yesterday I dropped my phone out of my pocket when i was cutting the grass ...... Big deal right ? Well I was on a tractor with a 7foot mower behind it .... and only realised because my music stopped. I walked back around the paddock .... the earmuffs said "bluetooth re-connected" so the phone was still on somewhere.... I now own ... or should I say my workplace owns one very unique banana shaped phone. the screen isn't even broken, but the entire thing is curved when the rear tractor tire must have gone over it (pushing it into the ground so the mower went over the top without turning it to mulch).

 

[bobsie]

This is why I hate borrowing stuff ...... I break everything! Its been a good weekend. Yesterday I dropped my phone out of my pocket when i was cutting the grass ...... Big deal right ? Well I was on a tractor with a 7foot mower behind it .... and only realised because my music stopped. I walked back around the paddock .... the earmuffs said "bluetooth re-connected" so the phone was still on somewhere.... I now own ... or should I say my workplace owns one very unique banana shaped phone. the screen isn't even broken, but the entire thing is curved when the rear tractor tire must have gone over it (pushing it into the ground so the mower went over the top without turning it to mulch).

 

[bobsie]

That tool looks lightweight compared to what I have.
The engaging bolt is about 1 inch diameter very fine thread ( ie applies lots of pressure per turn) and the piece slotted across is not rectangular but about a 1inch round dowel. Do it up as hard as you can with about a 3 foot bar then hit it hard with a 5lb hammer (difficult upward) and you should get a wonderful bang as the ball lets go !!
You should reverse the nut on the bottom spindle and do it up flush with the end of the spindle and place a bit of flat bar across the whole for the bolt on the tool to rest against so as not to distort the spindle.

 

[gerrypro]

That tool looks lightweight compared to what I have.
The engaging bolt is about 1 inch diameter very fine thread ( ie applies lots of pressure per turn) and the piece slotted across is not rectangular but about a 1inch round dowel. Do it up as hard as you can with about a 3 foot bar then hit it hard with a 5lb hammer (difficult upward) and you should get a wonderful bang as the ball lets go !!
You should reverse the nut on the bottom spindle and do it up flush with the end of the spindle and place a bit of flat bar across the whole for the bolt on the tool to rest against so as not to distort the spindle.

Yes, it is lightweight compared with the original, but it has extracted many ball joints over the years. My Dad made it while he worked for the Victorian Railways back in the late sixties. At that time there was no access to all of the tools and parts that we can draw upon today.
The first iteration of the tool proved to be far too lightweight and had a round top bar, hence strengthening sections were added and the bar replaced with a piece of flat section spring steel. In this form, it worked well. You can see in the above photos where the modifications were made. They are a little rough but quite serviceable. I also would be fairly safe to say that it has done a lot more work than your 'authentic tool'. Maybe I shall order a new one day from CAS so that I can add it to the collection.
Dad made most of the tools that Shane has borrowed from me, and you can see that the others are very robust indeed.

 

[bobsie]

Yes, it is lightweight compared with the original, but it has extracted many ball joints over the years. My Dad made it while he worked for the Victorian Railways back in the late sixties. At that time there was no access to all of the tools and parts that we can draw upon today.
The first iteration of the tool proved to be far too lightweight and had a round top bar, hence strengthening sections were added and the bar replaced with a piece of flat section spring steel. In this form, it worked well. You can see in the above photos where the modifications were made. They are a little rough but quite serviceable. I also would be fairly safe to say that it has done a lot more work than your 'authentic tool'. Maybe I shall order a new one day from CAS so that I can add it to the collection.
Dad made most of the tools that Shane has borrowed from me, and you can see that the others are very robust indeed.

Mine is not an original tool but one made by a very skilled engineer/fitter and turner. Based on a poor illustration in the repair manual. I believe he made a few for various people sold through CCOCA. He told me once tools like that should be built like a "brick s----house"

 

[DoubleChevron]

That tool looks lightweight compared to what I have.
The engaging bolt is about 1 inch diameter very fine thread ( ie applies lots of pressure per turn) and the piece slotted across is not rectangular but about a 1inch round dowel. Do it up as hard as you can with about a 3 foot bar then hit it hard with a 5lb hammer (difficult upward) and you should get a wonderful bang as the ball lets go !!
You should reverse the nut on the bottom spindle and do it up flush with the end of the spindle and place a bit of flat bar across the whole for the bolt on the tool to rest against so as not to distort the spindle.

Good grief .... If they can be that tight, I'll need to rethink my approach to this. I'm NOT doing that to someone elses puller !!

 

[gerrypro]

Mine is not an original tool but one made by a very skilled engineer/fitter and turner. Based on a poor illustration in the repair manual. I believe he made a few for various people sold through CCOCA. He told me once tools like that should be built like a "brick s----house"

Would that person be Dennis Walton? I know that he made some seriously good stuff.

 

[DoubleChevron]

Yes, it is lightweight compared with the original, but it has extracted many ball joints over the years. My Dad made it while he worked for the Victorian Railways back in the late sixties. At that time there was no access to all of the tools and parts that we can draw upon today.
The first iteration of the tool proved to be far too lightweight and had a round top bar, hence strengthening sections were added and the bar replaced with a piece of flat section spring steel. In this form, it worked well. You can see in the above photos where the modifications were made. They are a little rough but quite serviceable. I also would be fairly safe to say that it has done a lot more work than your 'authentic tool'. Maybe I shall order a new one day from CAS so that I can add it to the collection.
Dad made most of the tools that Shane has borrowed from me, and you can see that the others are very robust indeed.

Just look at the welds on it .... I dream of being able to weld like that. I've been trying to work out in my head how this has happened.... how does a mild steel body damage the high tensile bolt threads?. I think what happens must be it gets torqued up .... This slightly distorts the mild steel threads, you then wind it back out and the high tensile bolt tries to re-cut/straighten the threads. Do this 30 or 40 times and the threads slowly loose there edge and you'll progressively weaken them much more rapidly as it wears

I wasn't laying awake last night thinking about this or anything But would welding a high tensile nut to the outside of the puller be better than cutting threads into the mild steel body again ? That way you have two hardened steel surfaces working against each other. If the threads ever got damaged again, you'd just cut the nut away and weld a new one back on

 

[gerrypro]

Just look at the welds on it .... I dream of being able to weld like that. I've been trying to work out in my head how this has happened.... how does a mild steel body damage the high tensile bolt threads?. I think what happens must be it gets torqued up .... This slightly distorts the mild steel threads, you then wind it back out and the high tensile bolt tries to re-cut/straighten the threads. Do this 30 or 40 times and the threads slowly loose there edge and you'll progressively weaken them much more rapidly as it wears

I wasn't laying awake last night thinking about this or anything But would welding a high tensile nut to the outside of the puller be better than cutting threads into the mild steel body again ? That way you have two hardened steel surfaces working against each other. If the threads ever got damaged again, you'd just cut the nut away and weld a new one back on

The block that carries the threads definitely needs to be thicker so that the thread length is longer. Adding a nut and welding it on would help but the thread of the nut would still need to be carried through the entire bore to suit the larger bolt.
Incidentally, those bolts are the big end bearing cap bolts from a Mercedes V16 Diesel used in VR locomotives.

 

[DoubleChevron]

You should reverse the nut on the bottom spindle and do it up flush with the end of the spindle and place a bit of flat bar across the whole for the bolt on the tool to rest against so as not to distort the spindle.

That's interesting, so you haven't machine a "dot" into the head of the bolt so it locks into the recessed center of the spindle ?