Are you sure? I've just tried an R4 and a new pirate part cap on my car and they fit the same. The new pirate part (sans the alloy OIL or Elf disc, and only a single rather than dual leaf spring) is yours if a better one doesn't come along. I'm also just trying to think where I have seen similar breather thimbles on another car......
The dry sump Gordini motor.
- Thread starter Frans
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Are you sure? I've just tried an R4 and a new pirate part cap on my car and they fit the same. The new pirate part (sans the alloy OIL or Elf disc, and only a single rather than dual leaf spring) is yours if a better one doesn't come along. I'm also just trying to think where I have seen similar breather thimbles on another car......
Simon, I have seen the original bakelite type caps that are different thicknesses from the seal to the "wings". The reason why I know this is because in one of the posts in "2 new race cars in NZ" I lost a cap by not tightening it and I phoned Ross that was coming over to spectate for a replacement. When he arrived, he had 2 in his hand, originals and the there I noticed the difference and then assumed the one is for the pressed metal cover and the other for the cast alloy ones.
Thanks Col, I'll get one.
So waiting for the weather I continued a bit on the dry sump motor and in this photo it shows the 2 scavenging pipes in their final position with the bracket I made and I even fitted a bell housing to make sure there isn't hidden obstacles.
It sure takes time and to do the rest I will have to make some mock-up engine compartment or better still take the other engine out and do a test fit to see the tank fitted and oil filter fitted etc. This will be the best way and I think I will do it. Only 2 races left for the season.
Regards, Frans.
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More progress on a rainy day. Caps that I don't have I made from a solid alluminium bar. Washer are very dainty stuff because they must be precise so that they can sit on the very small ridge on the spark plug tubes.
Plenty of odd items have to be fabricated to have the complete engine and so that there isn't any need to borrow from one to complete another. This will be the 4th G motor in the family:headbang:
Regards, Frans.
Plenty of odd items have to be fabricated to have the complete engine and so that there isn't any need to borrow from one to complete another. This will be the 4th G motor in the family:headbang:
Regards, Frans.
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Nice. I don't think that one spare for each car is greedy!
Best way to machine those washers is to get some plumbing fittings, turn the outside nice and smooth, bore out the inside to diameter and part off whatever thickness you need. I used cast steel, but for that position on the engine, I would have tried brass.
More difficult if your lathe is out of action and you're trying to make shims for its shafts, but it can be done on the mill as well.
Not that I imagine you didn't know.
I do sometimes wish I had a surface grinder.
How are those tubes going to seal against the cover?
More difficult if your lathe is out of action and you're trying to make shims for its shafts, but it can be done on the mill as well.
Not that I imagine you didn't know.
I do sometimes wish I had a surface grinder.
How are those tubes going to seal against the cover?
The spacers are a high performance engine thing, not a Gordini thing. It is usual practice for an experienced engine builder like Frans and the sort of detail that is reflected in his on track performance.
I think Frans explained it earlier Bowie, but don't quote me. Or what thread it was
Schlitzaugen, not sure if you know a 16TS engine (I think so) because on top of the washers are those thick rubber rings that seat on the washer and is compressed by the rocker cover and then you have to make sure that the cork gasket on the head seals as well.
Bowie, as Bustamif said. It eliminates the side play and makes the the rockers more sturdy which minimises the pushrod harmonics and vibrations.
Frans.
Bowie, as Bustamif said. It eliminates the side play and makes the the rockers more sturdy which minimises the pushrod harmonics and vibrations.
Frans.
I put spacers in my Dauphine engine race car back in 1962. I thought it was to reduce the pressure on the tappets so they operated more freely (quickly). We also ground away as much of the spare metal on the tappets to reduce the weight that has to repeatedly change direction at high speed.
These last few days were play days here in Auckland. I got a 3 phase motor for nothing and then wired it up to run on 1 phase. First time I've done it however I heard a few times that it can be done. Well it works like a charm.
So I commissioned my old buff and sanding wheels and did a quick test on the dry sump engine's rocker cover just to test the new electric motor.
Frans.
So I commissioned my old buff and sanding wheels and did a quick test on the dry sump engine's rocker cover just to test the new electric motor.
Frans.
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Hi,
I am reviving this thread because, after the engine failure at the last race and the end of the season, it is time to give this a go on the track. I am sure it will be a learning curve with some failures and breakdowns inevitable. I have to risk it because it is my only way I can do some
R & D.
Before I can continue, I am taking it completely apart to start all over because of the sleeves. Something I never had the opportunity to learn about is the use of a torque plate. The engineering works I used when rebuilding the engine that is in the race car now, refused to machine the sleeves without the torque plate. I had one made and the result was no smoke, no oil consumption. Compared to previous engines there was a hint of smoke at all times.
I am getting new old sleeves from J-man and they will be rebored with the torque plate, unlike the ones that are in there at the moment.
That is the reason I have stripped it. The "new" head is in at the engineering works to get a treat. New guides, seats, valves and a skim.
I have started to re-enter all the photos that were lost but it will take some time to get up to date.
Regards, Frans.
I am reviving this thread because, after the engine failure at the last race and the end of the season, it is time to give this a go on the track. I am sure it will be a learning curve with some failures and breakdowns inevitable. I have to risk it because it is my only way I can do some
R & D.
Before I can continue, I am taking it completely apart to start all over because of the sleeves. Something I never had the opportunity to learn about is the use of a torque plate. The engineering works I used when rebuilding the engine that is in the race car now, refused to machine the sleeves without the torque plate. I had one made and the result was no smoke, no oil consumption. Compared to previous engines there was a hint of smoke at all times.
I am getting new old sleeves from J-man and they will be rebored with the torque plate, unlike the ones that are in there at the moment.
That is the reason I have stripped it. The "new" head is in at the engineering works to get a treat. New guides, seats, valves and a skim.
I have started to re-enter all the photos that were lost but it will take some time to get up to date.
Regards, Frans.
Hi,
Most of the photos have been restored and pasted into the applicable slots of the thread. There is one or two that is missing but the thread is 90% complete again.
I'll start from here as soon as the parts arrived and there is progress.
Regards, Frans.
Most of the photos have been restored and pasted into the applicable slots of the thread. There is one or two that is missing but the thread is 90% complete again.
I'll start from here as soon as the parts arrived and there is progress.
Regards, Frans.
Great, thanks Frans. Such an interesting project!
I thought you/the shop were going to use a torque plate?