Tyres

shibuichi said:
Oh the joy of gradings! I passed my last one still capable of lining up to have my physio greet me two days later with "oooooooo, you've got whiplash and all your ribs are out of place!!"
Greenpeace is right. The way to speed is by being super relaxed, but on a clean line, until the point of contact. Bruce Lee's one-inch-punch is legendary for a reason.
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And there you see one very proud dad. She has been training since she was 5 years old, and just received her black belt last weekend.

I made it incredibly hard for her board breaks. I thought I found "easy" boards, as they has no grain in them (from the middle of the tree). The instructors came over at the end and said "You know they are like concrete to break as there is no grain for them to break at if you do that"..... Hmmmm..... They were right, breaking two of them was like doing 3 board breaks. Someone took one look at my boards and gave me 3 of their boards for the 3 board side kick. I'd have probably hurt all the board holders wrists and arms if I didn't get through the boards with all that force.
 
On the unused spare:
The usual guidance "rules of thumb" are: at around 5, the compound would have changed enough to seriously diminish wet grip &, at around 10, chemistry changes make structural failure (most notably, belt separation) significantly more likely.

So, with reference to these, you are fine for now but if you do have to use it, watch out in the wet.

Note that these are but "rules of thumb" & things vary across tyres with respect to, for example, compound chemistry & the presence or not of a circumferential zero degree (usually nylon) belt (which stabilises the steel belts against centrifugal forces). Things also vary with use history but while dark & cool & unused are good features, some of the chemical changes are going to happen anyway.
 
That approaching 17yo spare (2007 seems like yesterday!) also sits about a foot above an often very hot road surface, so it's not always going to be a cool space or even a stable storage climate at all times. This was an interesting series of reviews and you can buy a decent replacement new tyre like this Kumho from $150+ anyway.
https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/produ...-best-car-tyres-buy-now-2023/kumho-ecsta-hs52
 
I've had some sleepless nights over my DS's Michelin XVS spare. It's the old 3 digit date code so I don't know if it's from 1977, 1987 or 1997.🙉
I'll be tossing and turning again tonig.......😴😴😴
 
Greenpeace said:
I've had some sleepless nights over my DS's Michelin XVS spare. It's the old 3 digit date code so I don't know if it's from 1977, 1987 or 1997.🙉
I'll be tossing and turning again tonig.......😴😴😴
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similar age to the michelin X's on the traction here. They drive fine and hold air. What more could you want 🤔 I'm thinking probably 70's as the car has sat for so many years.

my cx still has its original spare. Its never been on the car, why would I throw away a brand new tyre :ROFLMAO:
 
That's good going on the CX spare - I thought my 23 year old 406 was doing well, as it's spare looks unused (actually it got used for a few km last year, then was safely stowed back in the boot).
 
Greenpeace said:
I've had some sleepless nights over my DS's Michelin XVS spare. It's the old 3 digit date code so I don't know if it's from 1977, 1987 or 1997.🙉
I'll be tossing and turning again tonig.......😴😴😴
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Just put those yonks-old Michelins on the back of your DS. All the back wheels of a DS do is stop the back of the car scraping on the road. And you need only one of them to do that. When they burst the worst that can happen is they will blow the rear guard off. If they blow a little more politely you might not even feel anything and just keep driving.

Roger
 
Roger Wilkinson said:
Just put those yonks-old Michelins on the back of your DS. All the back wheels of a DS do is stop the back of the car scraping on the road. And you need only one of them to do that. When they burst the worst that can happen is they will blow the rear guard off. If they blow a little more politely you might not even feel anything and just keep driving.

Roger
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I just had a thought, my XZS is a "tube type" what if that tube is an original one from 1971?
I'll never get to sleep, I'll be having nightma........😴😴😴
 
What if it doesn't have a tube and is masquerading as a tubeless tyre on a rim intended for tubed tyres?

Do you need a tube? I have 5 to suit 185 XVS and similar sizes.

You do realise this tube issue will likely rip open a long-festering sore!
 
David S said:
What if it doesn't have a tube and is masquerading as a tubeless tyre on a rim intended for tubed tyres?

Do you need a tube? I have 5 to suit 185 XVS and similar sizes.

You do realise this tube issue will likely rip open a long-festering sore!
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Oh no, it definately has a tube in it, and the tyre has "tube type" molded into the sidewall.
From what I can gather Michelin made these model tyres in both tube and tubeless.

As a motorcycle rider of 50 years I have quite an affinity to tubes, it's pretty hard to keep air in a wire spoked motorcycle wheel/tyre without one.😉
 
Greenpeace said:
I just had a thought, my XZS is a "tube type" what if that tube is an original one from 1971?
I'll never get to sleep, I'll be having nightma........😴😴😴
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Tube or not, you won't feel anything when it goes pop on the back of a DS. Maybe the bang will be loud enough that you will hear it. Even if you put it on the front and it goes bang, a DS will not fight you and you will maintain control.

Roger
 
David S said:
What if it doesn't have a tube and is masquerading as a tubeless tyre on a rim intended for tubed tyres?

Do you need a tube? I have 5 to suit 185 XVS and similar sizes.

You do realise this tube issue will likely rip open a long-festering sore!
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Tube-type tyres should have tubes because the tyre is not sufficiently air-impermeable to not deflate wrong swiftly.
But: rims which originally had tube-type tyres are, come replacement time, best refitted with tubeless tyres if they are available in an appropriate size (reasons available on request).
 
4cvgordini said:
Tube-type tyres should have tubes because the tyre is not sufficiently air-impermeable to not deflate wrong swiftly.
But: rims which originally had tube-type tyres are, come replacement time, best refitted with tubeless tyres if they are available in an appropriate size (reasons available on request).
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Rivetted rims leak without a tube in the tyre.
 
COL said:
I would use paint myself.
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Yeah, you could duct tape them, seam sealer them, anything like that.
Call me old fashioned, I usually just put the tubes back in that came out of the old tyres.🤷‍♂️
 
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Greenpeace said:
Yeah, you could duct tape them, seam sealer them, anything like that.
Call me old fashioned, I usually just put the tubes back in that came out of the old tyres.🤷‍♂️
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Tubes in tubeless tyres are problematic. Long story, available on request but I'm not interested in playing rhetorical games.
 
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