Xantia Octopus Repair - Bush Mechanic Notes
- Thread starter addo
- Start date
Hey John, Thanks. I got those fittings through ebay (flebay) as it is easier to find the parts there than out here.
If anyone is going to use these fittings, just measure the pipe sizes on the car and then go through the listings for the right size fittings. Take note of the inside/outside diameters of the pipes to match with the correct size nylon pipe.
You are right about Citroen making cheap fittings, they are not made to last.
If anyone is going to use these fittings, just measure the pipe sizes on the car and then go through the listings for the right size fittings. Take note of the inside/outside diameters of the pipes to match with the correct size nylon pipe.
You are right about Citroen making cheap fittings, they are not made to last.
Over the weekend just past, I overhauled the remainder of my return lines using 8/10 of the "bush mechanic" approach. Variations were - new, not recycled fuel line, and proper hose clamps. Cost about $30, for 3 metres of fuel line (2m quarter, 1m 5/16) and a dozen small worm drive Tridon clamps.
I found a coping saw cut the plastic overmould nicely and was fairly quick about it. To cheat I used a portable vice for holding connectors during surgery.
The only remaining original junctions are the two weep lines adjacent to front antisink and below LHM reservoir, and the rear return line where it transitions from nylon to "rubber" near the steering rack.
I found a coping saw cut the plastic overmould nicely and was fairly quick about it. To cheat I used a portable vice for holding connectors during surgery.
The only remaining original junctions are the two weep lines adjacent to front antisink and below LHM reservoir, and the rear return line where it transitions from nylon to "rubber" near the steering rack.
I've been reading this thread with mild amusement, and thought of it when I spotted this hardware (at the bottom of the page)
http://jackmasteroilfilters.com.au/_hose_&_fittings..html
Jo
http://jackmasteroilfilters.com.au/_hose_&_fittings..html
Jo
You may also be familiar with Aeroflow fittings. Ben Shaw of Extreme Creations, put me on to them. One they offer is a distribution block; four in line side ports and one in each end.
So many possible lines of retort!
A friend's Xantia had developed a leak at the back left. As expected, it was the 3-way union above the rear crossmember that had crumbled. There are two on the crossmember, orange at left and blue at the right hand end. If one is broken, the other one is probably in the same state. The blue one fell apart as soon as the plastic lines were moved, so always plan on changing both of them at once. Dropping the rear silencer helps enormously with access.
My return line hoses and connectors are crumbling away!!
Hi all,
my series 2 Xantia SX non hydractive wagon seriously needs new hoses/ connectors, and my mechanic has tried but cannot source new hoses in Australia. Is it worth me trying to pursue this through French car forum UK or is the "bush" approach really the only option these days? Is it true that these parts are no longer available new?
Everything else on the car is fine, but currently I can't rely on it because of the perishing issues.
any help much appreciated. Don't ask about what happened to my beautiful Xantia Ergo!
QdJ
Hi all,
my series 2 Xantia SX non hydractive wagon seriously needs new hoses/ connectors, and my mechanic has tried but cannot source new hoses in Australia. Is it worth me trying to pursue this through French car forum UK or is the "bush" approach really the only option these days? Is it true that these parts are no longer available new?
Everything else on the car is fine, but currently I can't rely on it because of the perishing issues.
any help much appreciated. Don't ask about what happened to my beautiful Xantia Ergo!
QdJ
Have a look at the last post on http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103771
That particular post concentrates on the rubber hose from the LHM reservoir to the HP pump. Importantly, it has a harness with imperial hose measurements. These are easily and cheaply sourced through Repco or SuperCheapAuto.
The only really difficult job is to "skin" the multi-hose tree back to its white nylon inner.
The job is just as difficult if you have a new harness or if you manufacture all the individual bits.
The hard bit is feeding the 5/16" hose down to the steering rack and then across to the drivers side to connect it. To simplify this job, you need a brass or nylon reducer. The larger diameter goes into the new rubber, the small diameter goes into the old rubber. It is possible to use a straight joiner, but the original old rubber will have hardened and shrunk (internally) and you may have a job connecting the new to old rubber. The reason you want a good connection is that you use the old rubber to pull the new rubber through and also push the new rubber to follow the old rubber. Once you get it through the maze so that you have new rubber at rack level, you can then pull the new rubber hose across to its joining point on the steering rack (on the drivers side).
Addo is an expert on skinning the tree and I live in Sutherland Shire and can come up and give you advice (you can do the dirty work and immerse yourself in LHM, I will give advice an immerse myself in a good red).
John
That particular post concentrates on the rubber hose from the LHM reservoir to the HP pump. Importantly, it has a harness with imperial hose measurements. These are easily and cheaply sourced through Repco or SuperCheapAuto.
The only really difficult job is to "skin" the multi-hose tree back to its white nylon inner.
The job is just as difficult if you have a new harness or if you manufacture all the individual bits.
The hard bit is feeding the 5/16" hose down to the steering rack and then across to the drivers side to connect it. To simplify this job, you need a brass or nylon reducer. The larger diameter goes into the new rubber, the small diameter goes into the old rubber. It is possible to use a straight joiner, but the original old rubber will have hardened and shrunk (internally) and you may have a job connecting the new to old rubber. The reason you want a good connection is that you use the old rubber to pull the new rubber through and also push the new rubber to follow the old rubber. Once you get it through the maze so that you have new rubber at rack level, you can then pull the new rubber hose across to its joining point on the steering rack (on the drivers side).
Addo is an expert on skinning the tree and I live in Sutherland Shire and can come up and give you advice (you can do the dirty work and immerse yourself in LHM, I will give advice an immerse myself in a good red).
John
Thanks John luckily I managed to find a new Oem return line kit from a Citroen dealer in Cornwall UK via ebay UK. It arrived late last week and is basically all the hoses that go to/ from the reservoir, so very happy with my purchase. Just got to have my mechanic fit it together with making new return lines from rear of car and this should make the car leak free for next 10 years fingers and toes crossed!
You are lucky to have procured a RHD harness. Good on you.
Keep the old one and cut off the "tree" that has a large hose in and out and three smaller ones coming off at an angle. Either keep it yourself for a rainy day or give it to Addo to "skin" and hold for when someone else needs to manufacture their own harness. It is the only item that is difficult to imitate.
John
Keep the old one and cut off the "tree" that has a large hose in and out and three smaller ones coming off at an angle. Either keep it yourself for a rainy day or give it to Addo to "skin" and hold for when someone else needs to manufacture their own harness. It is the only item that is difficult to imitate.
John
I've read this thread and thought that all sounds like a fiddly headache, and having just acquired a 97 CT turbo for not much didn't really think about this little issue. Well apart from the injection fuse blowing problem It has that I cannot fathom, was a leak off the hydraulic pump at the back at the 19mm bolt that hold the valve/spring, so I merrily whipped the bolt off after depressurizing and discovered the thread was mangled. It also drained most of the LHM through this orifice to my disappointment, worse the LHM was brown. So after the deluge and a new o ring went at the resevoir thinking the filters must be absolutely clogged. I cut the old factory clamps off the return hoses and prised them off and then not realizing the bar across the top held the lid on wriggled the tank free, and bingo snapped some return tubes. Cleaned the filters, they were coated in gunk of course, and started to think about the disaster I had caused. Read this thread, did an Addo on the t joiner ( thanks for that one) and proceeded with some copper pipe, spare D hoses and fuel line to patch up the mess. Put it all back together and filled , after a couple of de/repressurizing she started to behave again 'normally'. Only problem is the tiniest return pipe on filter housing the plastic line that goes to it I can't find a hose that will fit. And I stupidly didn't move the sensor wires out from underneath the tank upon replacement so the whole lot has to be redone to get the wires out to refit! Can anyone suggest what hose solution is? I don't remember the plastic line just fitting over the tube on resevoir, it wouln't fit over anyway I think.
Ps the line back from the steering cracked at the joiner on passenger side. I thought shit if I have to get in there to get to that at steering I'm screwed!
Ps the line back from the steering cracked at the joiner on passenger side. I thought shit if I have to get in there to get to that at steering I'm screwed!
Oh Bliss.
If you PM me, I'll send some photos of the new Xantia octopuses I have in a dark and secure place, to give you lengths and dimensions, which I'd guess you are going to need......
I photographed them and it was John (as in JBN) I think who encouraged this and between us useful photos with labels was the outcome. I've no idea whether Xantia octopuses are still available, but have my doubts.
Best of luck.
The really sad (and stupid) thing in all of this is that if Citroen had made one harness for both LHD and RHD cars, we would all be able to replace the complete harness with a new one. Given that rubber hardens with age and the heat of the engine compartment, all the early Xantias still on the road are candidates.
The only reason that there is a difference between LHD and RHD cars is because of the steering rack. Had Citroen fitted a metal tube on the RHD rack to run to the other end of the rack to the same position as the where the rubber tube joins the LHD rack, there would have been no problem.
Not helped by the scarcity of metric fuel hose in Australia.
John
The only reason that there is a difference between LHD and RHD cars is because of the steering rack. Had Citroen fitted a metal tube on the RHD rack to run to the other end of the rack to the same position as the where the rubber tube joins the LHD rack, there would have been no problem.
Not helped by the scarcity of metric fuel hose in Australia.
John
so theoretically you could take a lhd harness and adapt a tube across?
the other gripe is they're a complete pr^*k to get at anyway given they went in before they plonked a motor in in the factory, but that's what you get for owning a Cit as everybody already knows! : )
the other gripe is they're a complete pr^*k to get at anyway given they went in before they plonked a motor in in the factory, but that's what you get for owning a Cit as everybody already knows! : )
Ideally, if you have a new harness to fit, a hoist would help a lot. Where possible, join the old to the new and pull the new into place. Naturally that means cutting the old hose at an appropriate point to attach the new to it. Since you would have drained the LHM, the tank will be out of the way and there may be some other bits that need removing in front and below the tank.
Do this job at a time when you are patient and have all the time in the world to complete it (say a weekend).
John
Do this job at a time when you are patient and have all the time in the world to complete it (say a weekend).
John
It's only a difficult job if you're on the ground and in a hurry. If you have a hoist and some time, the repairs/replacement is not too bad.
Lamenting the lack of sense in PSA can be ongoing, it won't stop the leaks however... Much of this stuff, like the heater hoses, is outsourced - you'd assume in good time that third parties will offer the items unbranded or re-labelled as has finally happened with some of the heater hoses (Polish made).
Lamenting the lack of sense in PSA can be ongoing, it won't stop the leaks however... Much of this stuff, like the heater hoses, is outsourced - you'd assume in good time that third parties will offer the items unbranded or re-labelled as has finally happened with some of the heater hoses (Polish made).