the only way I could get the range rover here to bleed its clutch was to crack the bleed nipple on the slave.... and using a new oil can, pump the fluid backwards filling the master cylinder from the slave.
Ken, IIRC from my Peugeot ownership days, about the only way to successfully bleed the hydraulic clutch on a 504/505 was to loosen or remove the clutch master cylinder cap, connect a hose from the LF (the closest on a 504/505) brake bleed nipple to the clutch slave cylinder bleed nipple, open both bleed screws, then 'reverse' bleed the clutch by pumping the brake pedal until the air bubbles in the clutch master cylinder reservoir stopped. Of course, care needed to be taken to catch any overflow at the top end. Like many things, simple when you know how!! Is this problem/methodology just a French idiosyncrasy I wonder?My theory is that air prefers to float up tubes to a higher level than to flow down tubes to a lower level, especially if it is intermittant flow.
Cheers, Ken
Ken, IIRC from my Peugeot ownership days, about the only way to successfully bleed the hydraulic clutch on a 504/505 was to loosen or remove the clutch master cylinder cap, connect a hose from the LF (the closest on a 504/505) brake bleed nipple to the clutch slave cylinder bleed nipple, open both bleed screws, then 'reverse' bleed the clutch by pumping the brake pedal until the air bubbles in the clutch master cylinder reservoir stopped. Of course, care needed to be taken to catch any overflow at the top end. Like many things, simple when you know how!! Is this problem/methodology just a French idiosyncrasy I wonder?
Cheers, Robin
Indeed they do, if left to their own devices, but by pressurising the reservoir, the fluid is forced to flow faster towards the slave, when the bleed nipple is opened, than the bubbles can rise against that flow. So instead of the master cylinder pumping the bubble laden fluid to the slave bleed nipple, as you would traditionally do, slowly, the pressurised reservoir does it for you, quickly.My theory is that air prefers to float up tubes to a higher level than to flow down tubes to a lower level, especially if it is intermittant flow.
Clearly the old adage still holds true: there's more than one way to skin a cat. Keeping it still and avoiding the claws is what's important. Cheers, RobinIts really easy if you use the oil can trick. Buy a new oil can (so its not tainted with oil). Drain the master/slave so you have removed all the old moisture laden fluid. Fill the new oil with brake fluid/lhm/whatever your system used.
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I used something like this. Now hook the can to the slave bleeder and "fill" the master cylinder from the slave. When the master is full, you should have a working clutch The fluid has pushed all the air up and out as you filled it.
That's for sure. I didn't come up with the "use an oil can" thing. I was googling "I can't bleed my clutch" and found the oil can suggestion on a car forum somewhere. I'm certainly not smart enough to have come up with it myself As soon as you hear about it though ..... its so obvious you wonder why you didn't do it straight away rather than messing around for hours trying to bleed the mongrel thingClearly the old adage still holds true: there's more than one way to skin a cat. Keeping it still and avoiding the claws is what's important. Cheers, Robin
there isn't any pressure involve, just run a bleeder line from the nipple to the oil can. I probably just used a bit of brake bleeder tubeSurprised you get any kind of seal between oil can and bleed nipple - sounds as if it'd be like me trying to get grease into a grease nipple!
You will need to seal the nipple thread with tape or you'll end up with fluid on the floor. Same goes if you use a vacuum pump to draw the fluid through to the slave.there isn't any pressure involve, just run a bleeder line from the nipple to the oil can. I probably just used a bit of brake bleeder tube
it possible, I didn't have that problem. You will introduce leakage rather than air bubbles in this case thoughYou will need to seal the nipple thread with tape or you'll end up with fluid on the floor. Same goes if you use a vacuum pump to draw the fluid through to the slave.
Thanks Faulksy. I had come to that conclusion but I couldn't 'Like' your post. I will have to get the new aircon compressor into the Activa and replace the LHM return pipe I broke changing the expansion valve so I can transfer the SM into the best working position in the shed.
Who knows where this job will end. I already have to put new seals into both the front brake calipers and I know the front suspension bump stops are pretty destroyed. I think the tie rods from the bottom of the steering relays to the pivots are OK but there are some suspension rattles that only happen over a series of bumps that I haven't tracked down as yet so I should check the relays as well.
Cheers, Ken