Wheel Balancing Centreless Rims

Newcastle !

Hi,
I previously bought tires and had them balanced on mags which had no hole, C5, at
Newcastle Tyrepower, Wickham, NSW

Cnr Railway and Thorsby Streets, Wickham NSW 2293

They just told me to book in at a convenient time so they would have the time to change the spindle etc on the machine. No extra charge.
I had been to two Bob Jane franchises in Newcastle also, who could do them. However they both thought they had a exclusive m/c and wanted to charge "a lot" extra for doing it. I told them to stuff it and will never go back to them again. One even said as I left " you will have to come back to us anyway in the end " ????? I have had some poor experiences with Bob Jane over the years so no loss there.:rolleyes:

Jaahn
Cranky old bastard but I hate being stiffed by idiots :eek:
PS I recon that 10 minutes extra for doing the spindle change would pull it up so at $100/hr for a tire fitter :) :) that is less than $20 extra for the four wheels. I would pay that !
 
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Well. I got me some dyna beads (ceramic) from England and poured them into the tyres.
Easier said than done, but with a bit of patience.
The results are... dubious :)
Thing is, the wheels (even though my tyre man could not balance them for lack of an adapter), were running smoothly enough anyway.
So, if there was an improvement, it's small enough to be difficult to detect.
 
Don what speed have you tested the tyres at - before and after? I usually don't notice the effect of OOB wheels until I get above 100km/h...

Cheers

Alec
 
Yes, the (very light) vibration I get at around 110/120 kph (120/130 on the speedo).
With the old - weight balanced - tyres it wasn't too bad, but definitely noticeable.
With the new - not balanced - tyres it was much better, but it was still noticeable.
With the beads... hard to say. It probably is slightly better still. I'm trying to discount for placebo and all... I may also be too attentive and feeling something that isn't really there.

Perfect it's not. Bad neither. I may have a slight convergence problem... still, it drives good, just difficult to say if the beads actually made much of a difference.
A few more hundred clicks will probably help me judge better.
 
Yes, the (very light) vibration I get at around 110/120 kph (120/130 on the speedo).
With the old - weight balanced - tyres it wasn't too bad, but definitely noticeable.
With the new - not balanced - tyres it was much better, but it was still noticeable.
With the beads... hard to say. It probably is slightly better still. I'm trying to discount for placebo and all... I may also be too attentive and feeling something that isn't really there.

Perfect it's not. Bad neither. I may have a slight convergence problem... still, it drives good, just difficult to say if the beads actually made much of a difference.
A few more hundred clicks will probably help me judge better.

Are you sure it's tires .... and not suspension mount tubes or driveshafts :)
 
Driveshafts are new (Citrotech).

Suspension mount tubes... how would I check that?


bright torch shining at the front suspenion mount tubes while someone rocks the steering wheel. Any movement means they are starting to crack at the welds :)

seeya,
shane L.
 
- "Yeah, that's perfectly clear, Mickey. Yeah... just give me one minute to confer with my colleague.
- (Did you understand a single word of what he just said?)"

[Yes, it's a Snatch quote]

Thing is, I wonder what the tubes look like, and... wheels on the ground or off? :)
 
- "Yeah, that's perfectly clear, Mickey. Yeah... just give me one minute to confer with my colleague.
- (Did you understand a single word of what he just said?)"

[Yes, it's a Snatch quote]

Thing is, I wonder what the tubes look like, and... wheels on the ground or off? :)

Shane would be referring to the arm mounts. With age, and, cars that have been driven with flat or low sphere pressure the tube mounts can develop cracks. Engine out to remedy. . .

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Cheers
Chris
 

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Engine out to remedy. . .

Yeah, right.
I was just thinking of re-painting it periwinkle blue, wasn't I. Mickey's ma is so terribly partial to it...
Actually, I just changed the clutch (and a few other bits) and the idea of taking it apart again...

Question is (was, actually) :

Suspension mount tubes... how would I check that?

I mean, before taking the engine out ... again... (in a Forrest Gump voice)...
 
bright torch shining at the front suspenion mount tubes while someone rocks the steering wheel. Any movement means they are starting to crack at the welds :)

seeya,
shane L.

Yeah, right.
I was just thinking of re-painting it periwinkle blue, wasn't I. Mickey's ma is so terribly partial to it...
Actually, I just changed the clutch (and a few other bits) and the idea of taking it apart again...

Question is (was, actually) :

Don B. Cilly said:
Suspension mount tubes... how would I check that?



I mean, before taking the engine out ... again... (in a Forrest Gump voice)...

That part had already been answered, your query was where to look. Those mount points are welded so you are looking for cracks or movement as Shane has mentioned. This is possibly more a symptom here in Australia where poor roads and 1000's of kilometres of driving on dirt has taken it's toll. It's now common practice (here) when an engine out job is required to reinforce the mounts even if only as a precaution.

Cheers
Chris
 
Shane would be referring to the arm mounts. With age, and, cars that have been driven with flat or low sphere pressure the tube mounts can develop cracks. Engine out to remedy. . .

Cheers
Chris

Some nice pictures here Don, you can see the original poor welds, cracks and the freshly welded mounts. . .
Citroen-Forum.nl - Citroën ID/DS - Project ID(ylle)

Scroll down as the OP is working on two cars, our friend Egbert is welding the mounts on the second Safari using water cooled TIG :wink2:

Cheers
Chris
 
Sorry guys-I have been witholding info-thought there was enough info to solve problem-----

However -Joe @ Sim's Mtrs-1 Prentice Ave. Brunswick. Ph. 03 9381 2366.
 
I had tyres done at Tyrepower Berwick VIC today for our Camry(yes not a French car) but while there I checked and they do have the gear for balancing centreless wheels.

Also they do an excellent job and take care with their work, check the photo of a wheel brace being used after the rattle gun to final torque the wheel nuts.
This is our third set of tyres from these guys and each time they have been excellent.
2f3dbc3310c2bf2e70a256de21e073af.jpg
 
I know JAX Quickfit at Bowen Hills can do them but it helps greatly to buy the tyres there as well if you want it done at the normal price. It takes a while to fit the wheel hub onto the balancer and then they have to bolt each wheel onto the hub with at least 2 bolts I suppose.
JAX Bowen Hills/Mayne were unable to balance Xantia rims a couple of weeks ago, saying they have recently bought a new balancer to which the adapter won't fit. After telling me when quoting they could balance them, and fitting the tyres, they then had to send me to Bob Jane Toombul to get balancing done.
 
If your rims are in good condition and the tyres you are buying are not complete rubbish, it may be worth going bare - give the car a run with no balance weights at all!

I recently had Beaurepairs Armidale fit new Dunlop FM800 tyres to my Pug 605 (thanks 4cvg/Peter for the tyre recommendation). Since the nearest place that can balance my wheels is in Tamworth (120 km away, I asked them to just remove all weights, with the intention of trying out the little beads that JBN recommends.

To my great surprise the wheel balance is pretty well perfect - no detectable steering wheel wobble even when overtaking on roads with a 110 km/h speed limit!! I haven't even ordered the little beads!!!

Not bad for 22 year old rims!!! Props to the Dunlop tyres as well. To say that I'm pleased is an understatement, considering that the Tamworth mob took 3 goes to get the balance right the last time I got new tyres!

Cheers

Alec
 
I had tyres done at Tyrepower Berwick VIC today for our Camry(yes not a French car) but while there I checked and they do have the gear for balancing centreless wheels.

Also they do an excellent job and take care with their work, check the photo of a wheel brace being used after the rattle gun to final torque the wheel nuts.
This is our third set of tyres from these guys and each time they have been excellent.

As soon as I get my car back home after tyres have been replaced, I undo all the nuts and tighten them myself. Some rattle guns tighten the nuts so tight that should you have a flat, you have no chance of undoing the nuts and replacing the wheel.

John
 
I have been using balancing beads on my Xantia and various D's for years. I have had D wheels balanced on a repco on cad machine too, but prefer the internal system. Balancing beads are de rigueur on trucks!
Dyna beads down the valve are fine, but as we have read, takes time. I have found that cleaning the valve hole gently with a wire speeds the process.
The best option is to buy a 12 ounce pack of preferably ceramic beads of secondly, balancing sand for a large truck wheel. Divide x 4 into small plastic bags. When buying tyres from Jax or somewhere like that, just hand the bags to to fitter to place inside the tyre! The bag falls apart as the car is travelling and the beads move to lightest spot.
Any place that sells commercial vehicle tyres has it. Beaurepairs,- Michelin servce centre etc.
I get Dyna beads from a place in Perth WA.
Balancing beads are also used for motor bikes, in USA at least.
It works well and there are no weights to fall off or look unsightly if they don't!
 
I notice that the ones appearing most frequently on eBay are Chequered Flag ceramic beads. They offer these in packs of 4 bags, but you can choose between 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, or 12 oz in each bag.

From your post above, I presume 3 oz per wheel is usually enough? Does more (or less) give any benefit? Does more help if a tyre (& wheel) is really out of balance?

Cheers

Alec
 
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