Two new racecars in NZ

[jaahn]

"Now the dilemma, how do I get the holes to 19mm? I do have a 19mm drill but that won't fit in the milling machine. I have to drill it by hand with an electric drill but it is going to grab like hell. I can make it 18.5mm as well and then ream the holes to 19mm but still, the drill will grab. Does anybody have a trade secret of how to do this?"

Frans,
Great work ! You asked about how to prevent the bigger drill grabbing. I feel you would know this already but to prevent that grabbing, drilling brass you reduce the rake of the cutting edge by grinding it flat on the grinder. So the edge is 90deg and does not pull into the metal. You just need a small flat on the edge. So the cutting edge is still sharp but the angle in reduced.

It is similar to step drills that have no rake as the cutting edge is formed by the milled 'slot' down the length of it. I have used a large step drill to drill out the center holes in some mags to 60mm so they would fit a Reno 4 stud. Like you I was just trying to enlarge the original hole some mm larger. Worked Ok but I did use a larger pillar drill as a hand drill was too hard to handle at 60mm.
Good luck Jaahn

 

[JohnW]

"Now the dilemma, how do I get the holes to 19mm? I do have a 19mm drill but that won't fit in the milling machine. I have to drill it by hand with an electric drill but it is going to grab like hell. I can make it 18.5mm as well and then ream the holes to 19mm but still, the drill will grab. Does anybody have a trade secret of how to do this?"

Frans,
Great work ! You asked about how to prevent the bigger drill grabbing. I feel you would know this already but to prevent that grabbing, drilling brass you reduce the rake of the cutting edge by grinding it flat on the grinder. So the edge is 90deg and does not pull into the metal. You just need a small flat on the edge. So the cutting edge is still sharp but the angle in reduced.

It is similar to step drills that have no rake as the cutting edge is formed by the milled 'slot' down the length of it. I have used a large step drill to drill out the center holes in some mags to 60mm so they would fit a Reno 4 stud. Like you I was just trying to enlarge the original hole some mm larger. Worked Ok but I did use a larger pillar drill as a hand drill was too hard to handle at 60mm.
Good luck Jaahn

I learn something most weeks here! Thanks Jaahn. Has to work first time, at least preferably...

 

[jaahn]

Here is a simple way to modify the cutting edge to 0 deg rake ! Better than the grinding wheel if your hand is getting shakey and the eyes failing too I like it ! I learn every day too !

Jaahn

 

[dauphproto]

You could also use a Slot drill from a milling Machine, but as it has no point angle it has no centring effect and would need to be held on the machine, good thing is they cut clean on size, not oversize like a twist drill.
You could also get inserts and fit them so the wheels work with ordinary coned nuts (like original) They need to have a couple diameters put in like 3/4" or 19mm through, then I think its 1" or 11/8" for the wide part of the insert. Much nicer going steel to steel and not having having the tube nut effect. I used inserts when I made wheels years ago. Worked a treat.

https://www.raceways.co.uk/Alloy_wheel_Standard_size_steel_inserts.htm

is the link to show the inserts, so you get the idea. good for reclaiming worn tube nut type wheels.

 

[Frans]

I'm not sure if I am more relieved than happy or vice versa!!!!! Success! Thanks to all, it was a mixture of all the tips from you that pulled it through.

I have in the end sacrificed 20mm of my 19mm drillbit. I fitted it in the lathe and started grinding the front tip off until it was about 8mm in diameter. I took it to the grinder and gave it a nice flat cutting edge. Then I took a piece of brass and drilled an 8mm hole in it, drilled another 4 x 3.2mm holes at a right angle to the 8mm hole, and tapped them M4. With 4 grub screws, I tightened the brass onto the drill tip as tight as I could. Then I had the drill bit with its brass front in the lathe and turned the brass tip true and down to 14mm to go into the rim holes and be a guide.

So, believing I had the right tool I took the rim to my old drill press, a mean mother that I bought about 40 years ago for the sum of 15 cents per kilogram, got the big bed into position, and started with the setup. My trial run on the first hole went so well that I completed the hole without clamping the rim on the bed. About 5 minutes later all 3 holes were done.

Keen but panicky I got the hub with the studs out and.................they all screwed in like a dream. The wheel nuts are of the shank type, also called sleeve type and that was mainly the big issue to get it done very accurately
because there is no taper, the whole shank must go in.

Some photos of the most delicate operation.

This is the drillbit with the brass guide.

The mean mother with the small everyday bed folded away and the big bed brought into position.

Last of the 3 holes completed.

All 3 nuts in and tightened, now some finishing on the outside.

This is the wheel nuts and because of the success, I wouldn't need different nuts for different wheels. All of them are equal.

Thanks again, now the rest of the repair can start, replace the damaged hub, repair the fender that was damaged when the wheel came out, repair the oil-cooler intake duct under the car, and a positive, the windscreen is already installed.

Regards, Frans.

 

[309B6D]

I'm not sure if I am more relieved than happy or vice versa!!!!! Success! Thanks to all, it was a mixture of all the tips from you that pulled it through.

I have in the end sacrificed 20mm of my 19mm drillbit. I fitted it in the lathe and started grinding the front tip off until it was about 8mm in diameter. I took it to the grinder and gave it a nice flat cutting edge. Then I took a piece of brass and drilled an 8mm hole in it, drilled another 4 x 3.2mm holes at a right angle to the 8mm hole, and tapped them M4. With 4 grub screws, I tightened the brass onto the drill tip as tight as I could. Then I had the drill bit with its brass front in the lathe and turned the brass tip true and down to 14mm to go into the rim holes and be a guide.

So, believing I had the right tool I took the rim to my old drill press, a mean mother that I bought about 40 years ago for the sum of 15 cents per kilogram, got the big bed into position, and started with the setup. My trial run on the first hole went so well that I completed the hole without clamping the rim on the bed. About 5 minutes later all 3 holes were done.

Keen but panicky I got the hub with the studs out and.................they all screwed in like a dream. The wheel nuts are of the shank type, also called sleeve type and that was mainly the big issue to get it done very accurately
because there is no taper, the whole shank must go in.

Some photos of the most delicate operation.

This is the drillbit with the brass guide.

View attachment 226094

The mean mother with the small everyday bed folded away and the big bed brought into position.

View attachment 226095

Last of the 3 holes completed.

View attachment 226096

All 3 nuts in and tightened, now some finishing on the outside.

View attachment 226097

This is the wheel nuts and because of the success, I wouldn't need different nuts for different wheels. All of them are equal.

View attachment 226098

Thanks again, now the rest of the repair can start, replace the damaged hub, repair the fender that was damaged when the wheel came out, repair the oil-cooler intake duct under the car, and a positive, the windscreen is already installed.

Regards, Frans.

Nice consistent swarf . It is satisfying when it comes out like that. No chatter or grabbing - just the right speed and pressure resulting in a constant curl.

 

[Frans]

#dauphproto I would like to ask that if I do the inserts that you have mentioned, this is on my racing wheels and not my towing wheels, how did you go about fitting them? Did you make a special cutter that did it all in one, or did you do the shank first, and then the recess after that, and then the taper or in a certain sequence? If I have to grind a cutter that does a specific angle, is there an easy way to do an accurate 60 or 45 degrees?

Thanks, Frans.

 

[dauphproto]

I discovered that By drilling through at 3/4" (19.05mm) and then using a 1" Drill the point angle of the drill,118 deg. corresponded to the angle on the outside of the insert giving a flush fit insert. No special tools required and it was much easier than I thought it would be. The inserts are Knurled on the 3/4 diameter, like a wheel stud for driving in. Your big Drill press (they don't make 'em like that anymore) would be all you needed. I still have a couple here I'll get a photo and sizes if you bear with me..

 

[dauphproto]

I have found the remaining inserts I have and on measuring, have found they are not the same as the ones I used on the wheels, but are fairly close.
A couple of pics

The difference between these and the others is the angle on the outside diameter. The originals were the same as the point angle of a twist drill.
These are more or less the same as the inside taper 60 degrees, using the good old RAF method with the drill point thus

The method would still hold good. The o/d of the Knurled part is 19.6mm, so drilling through at 19.5mm then the max od is 25mm. A cheap 25mm Blacksmith drill Reground to 60 deg would provide the counter bore to full diameter. Then the insert is then driven in with a home made mandrel.
Hope that makes sense to you

 

[schlitzaugen]

That would not be that hard to make on the lathe, just time consuming. And you can use a normal drill to give the internal taper, which would make it easier when cutting the external one.

 

[Frans]

Today is a wondering day. I wonder if companies are taking advantage of online orders and making a huge profit in the delivery phase.

I was going to order a crank pulley as suggested by Dauphproto. All was good and well, GBP27, and then added delivery of GBP51.

Almost double the pulley cost, and is that pulley so bulky and heavy? Is postage really that expensive?

Just wondering.

 

[FIVEDOOR]

Today is a wondering day. I wonder if companies are taking advantage of online orders and making a huge profit in the delivery phase.

I was going to order a crank pulley as suggested by Dauphproto. All was good and well, GBP27, and then added delivery of GBP51.

Almost double the pulley cost, and is that pulley so bulky and heavy? Is postage really that expensive?

Just wondering.

I have posted stuff to myself in Australia from Finland when visiting, I found postage to be VERY expensive.

 

[dauphproto]

The pulley is 100mm Diameter by 50mm and weighs around 500grams, seems pricey for postage. Just had a quick check online and the cheapest I could find was £30.00 average was £40.00 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[309B6D]

Today is a wondering day. I wonder if companies are taking advantage of online orders and making a huge profit in the delivery phase.

I was going to order a crank pulley as suggested by Dauphproto. All was good and well, GBP27, and then added delivery of GBP51.

Almost double the pulley cost, and is that pulley so bulky and heavy? Is postage really that expensive?

Just wondering.

I try to find a UK/Euro supplier who has reasonable rates/free within the Euro zone. Then I have the item sent to my UK NZPost YouShop address. Their forwarding rates are often better than European suppliers rates to NZ.
YouShop account is easy to set up. They dispatch twice per week. Once they are on their way the service is usually very quick. It hooks up with NZ Post deliveries so there is no delay by handing over to another courier.

You Shop | You Shop - Shipping From US to NZ / UK to NZ | NZ Post

[You Shop gives you a delivery address on the ground so you can shop online and get shipping from the US and UK to NZ ]

www.nzpost.co.nz

It used to be possible to calculate the freight cost if you have the weight and dimension of the parcel.
The biggest nuisance is, for example, when the free service from Germany to UK have packed my small radiator thermo switch in a 50x 40x 40cm carton. The although the part is light I get slammed by "volumetric weight" which results in an extremely bad part cost to freight cost ratio.
You might be able to contact the seller and request tight packaging which will reduce the volumetric problem.

But, yes, I think sellers are taking advantage of post lockdown attitudes from business in general. When the market has suffered confusion from extraordinary prices during the pandemic it gives them a chance to leave the prices up or even increase them further.

Bryan

 

[Frans]

This Saturday is my first race since the "day to forget" described in the above posts.

The car is ready with a new oil-cooler intake duct, new windscreen, repaired fender, repaired wheel, and new Warrant of Fitness. The group I am now racing with is basically a free-for-all all and has nothing to do with Classics or European. it is a huge grid and the entries will have to be split in 2 as the track grid is too small.

This is the scene I looked at tonight, highly satisfied.

And this is the entry list as at 23rd October. It will be bigger by now.

So, wish me luck. I'm planning to just enjoy myself.

Regards, Frans.

 

[geckoeng]

Nice workshop/Garage !!!!!

Ray

 

[Bowie]

Yeah clean, space for ever, and those cars. MMMMMMMMmmmmMM!

Have fun on the weekend!

 

[Peter J Kent]

Have fun and keep the black bits underneath.

 

[JohnW]

This Saturday is my first race since the "day to forget" described in the above posts.

The car is ready with a new oil-cooler intake duct, new windscreen, repaired fender, repaired wheel, and new Warrant of Fitness. The group I am now racing with is basically a free-for-all all and has nothing to do with Classics or European. it is a huge grid and the entries will have to be split in 2 as the track grid is too small.

This is the scene I looked at tonight, highly satisfied.

View attachment 229364

View attachment 229365

And this is the entry list as at 23rd October. It will be bigger by now.

View attachment 229366

So, wish me luck. I'm planning to just enjoy myself.

Regards, Frans.

Like the new accomodation Frans!! Good luck on the day too.

 

[R8 Dream]

Good luck Frans - Enjoy!