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Tool Talk

bob

1000+ Posts
G'day,

Bought one of these Hilda units a while ago.

It's basically a larger (400 watt) Dremel with a chuck so you can use common 1/4 inch shank bits as well as smaller 1/8 inch ones. Lots of jobs need more horsepower than a standard Dremel can provide. Been pretty happy with mine.

The Dremel with grunt here is an Archer, been here for years...
https://www.hobbytools.com.au/archer-rotary-power-carving-kit/
very versatile with the little chisels, but that price is scary, don't reckon I paid that much for it !!

The Jacobs chuck on that Hilda unit would get in the way a lot of the time - the slim lines of a collet system and small diameter hand-piece makes handling a breeze with the Archer.

Bloody JIS, replaced all the mongrels on my Honda with socket heads, no idea what they were way back then in my youth...

cheers,
Bob
 

Shoji

Renault 17 TL 1312
Early xmas present from GekoSanta
Thank You!
IMG_20201116_145927791.jpg
 
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Kenfuego

1000+ Posts
there's a number of saw sets here, going back to grandad, but they're useless on hardened teeth.

cheers
Bob
Bob if your father schooled you like mine did for me, saw setting started with heating the teeth to a dull red (blowlamp!!) then you filed each individual tooth reset the softened teeth, reheated them and oil quenched them at just the right time and technique to reharden but not make them brittle in service. Did all that for years, but these days it is easier to buy a new handsaw for $7 to $15 that cuts far easier that the old ones...:)
Much the same with drills, for years I used to sharpen them as a bit of a party trick when we visited at farms etc, and I still sharpen some of my own collected over the years,drills , but again easier to buy a new one or a dozen..

Ken:)
 
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schlitzaugen

1000+ Posts
I meant the Pozidrive has a "cross" stamped for identification between the main cross of the actual screw head.
Pozidrive are different again from Philips and JIS, and are easily recognised by parallel ground flutes driving on the sides of the slotted screw head.
Like the JIS, if you use a pozidrive driver on a pozidrive head, it works.

View attachment 127288
Thanks for the tip about the JIS, I do remember them from a lot of Japanese stuff, especially carburettors and motorbikes, but wasn't aware of the difference. I wonder if one of my "favourite" tools, the old double-ended screwdriver found in Mazda and Toyota car toolkits, was actually a JIS or a Philips?

Cheers.

Yeap, they are JIS tools. That is my source of JIS screwdrivers as I found nobody knows where to get one here in the shops, let alone most salespeople loo at you like you're a green martian when you ask for one. They are designed to bite into the screw head rather than cam out. Tamiya R/C kits will quickly teach you the difference after you mangle all the heads of the screws in the kit with a Phillips. Annoying as all hell.
 

schlitzaugen

1000+ Posts
I learned quickly to raid the Toyotas at pick a part so now have a collection of JIS tools. Nobody seems to use the toolkit that comes with these cars. Maybe says something about their reliability. Quite good quality as one would expect from them.
 

Fordman

1000+ Posts
Yeap, they are JIS tools. That is my source of JIS screwdrivers as I found nobody knows where to get one here in the shops, let alone most salespeople loo at you like you're a green martian when you ask for one. They are designed to bite into the screw head rather than cam out. Tamiya R/C kits will quickly teach you the difference after you mangle all the heads of the screws in the kit with a Phillips. Annoying as all hell.

Ahh yes, Tamiya "sort of" Phillips, remember them well. Wish I had known about JIS at the time.
But your post reminded me of why I have a Pozidrive screwdriver - also for an RC model car. I have an old Schumacher (UK) on-road RC car, and my son had a series of Schumacher off-roads from 1992 to about 2005. Soon learnt about Pozidrive screws, having the correct driver made all the difference. For the uninitiated, you can see the cross stamped into the head of the screws in the close photo, and you may be able to see the parallel flutes of the driver I sat there. The other photo for the brand of driver, these are easily found (Bunnings?) in several sizes, identified by the blue-grey handle. (This driver is almost brand new, the one in my son's RC toolkit looks a bit more weatherbeaten).

IMG_20201118_115937545_HDR_RED.jpg

IMG_20201118_120032754_RED.jpg
 

schlitzaugen

1000+ Posts
I usually ditched all the screws that came in the kits and replaced them with cap head screws (Allen). Much more long lasting, much easier to deal with and I like to be able to do all jobs with only one tool.
 
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DoubleChevron

Real cars have hydraulics

schlitzaugen

1000+ Posts
Or if you have no welder a Dremel does the trick with a thin cutting disc. Put a slot in the recessed head if you don't care much about the surrounding getting marred and bob's your buddy.

Another good tool is a parallel jaw plier. Especially for grinding small stuff on the bench grinder.
 

COL

Alpine A110
They look interesting. You would need the screw partially unscrewed before they work? I've been known to knock the heads of them with an angle grinder if its just screws into timber (that is hidden). If they are into metal, you weld a nut to them.

Yes they show a counter sunk screw, they are for round head and cheese head screws. I have a pair of PZ-58 and they do work well if you can get a grip of the screw head.
 

bob

1000+ Posts
G'day,

never mind those rich man's pliers, Warren & Brown Screw Removal Pliers, they must stay awake at nights over there in Maidstone - are they still there... ?


cheers,
Bob
 

COL

Alpine A110
G'day,

never mind those rich man's pliers, Warren & Brown Screw Removal Pliers, they must stay awake at nights over there in Maidstone - are they still there... ?


cheers,
Bob

I can see that having its uses.
 
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