Those weird old citroens

No, he is running his own Citroen Spare Parts Business and is my goto for SM Parts in the Newcastle region in NSW Australia. He is sometimes on AF as user Greg. Call him on 0408 464 350. Greg Fienburg and Graham Day (spelling correction).

Treat him nicely and with respect Shane.

Cheers, Ken
 
For those that want to have a laugh at my expensive .... Do you think I could get this damn thing back together .... The time I've wasted.

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I just couldn't understand it as I'm sure I've never struggled to get these together before. Leaving cars apart for months/years before you decide to re-assemble ... It's just a magical idea, that make everything a great challenge :dance: :blackeye:

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I was getting so desperate, I was just about to pull another car apart to see why the hell nothing seemed to fit together. When it occured to me .... The cable is spring loaded, and I can't budge it. So I tied the gearshift leaver as far forward as it would go ... so the cable would have a small amount of lenght sticking out the end. This finally allowed me to re-assembled it.


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Moving along, this car has had LHM put it at some point in the past, and I can't see an easy way to clean out the tank well enough .... This tank is from the rusty car featured eariler in this thread.

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But it's spotless inside after flushing it several times with metholated spirits. So this is the go (I just soldered the level tube back on). and dusted a lot of the tank around the writing with some black paint.

I used to get a car back together in a weekend ... why does this now take months and months .... and months 🤔
 
The ad says "Not suitable for petrochemical products". LHM?
Would air hose be better?
 
The ad says "Not suitable for petrochemical products". LHM?
Would air hose be better?
Its EPDM. That is the only real rubber you can safely use with brake fluid :). Yes, it will break down if used with any mineral oil. This car is an early brake fluid (LHS2) car :dance: The only rubber I'm aware of that is brake fluid safe is EPDM. or heater hose :) (though in searching a lot of heater hoses are now not even EPDM, they are "synthetic" and not suitable for brake fluid).

at least I hope I'm not wrong ... when I googled it, that comes up as EPDM


the other brands (supercheap/repco/etc) all came up as synthetic rubber.
 
Hmm... no stock what a suprise (its hard to tell if local shops actually have stock with those websites). They did try to sell me transmission cooler line "as it would be fine". Even after I said several times, "as long as its EDPM it will be fine". Transmission fluid is a mineral oil ... So that line will be nitrile.

I'll try pirtek tomorrow :) ... and if that fails buy it in on fleabay.
 
We have been having fun .... under the car and I a very slowly growing puddle of gear oil on the floor.

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That's strange. leaking output seals would be over next to the brake disc. Those bolts must be through into the gearbox sump? I'll try pulling them out and putting thread sealer on them. Maybe I caused this myself by putting modern very thin gearbox oil in there (I figured 75/80 grade gearbox oil would be way better... also in the CX gearbox too). I'm sure they would have used these thinner oils if they existed at the time 🤔


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anyway, who wasn't very smart.... I couldn't easily turn the nut on the brake pipe line... I then found I couldn't easily turn the nuts on the regulator -> car hydraulic line.

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So we go .. heat, spray, heat spray .. .heat spray until the dried out old brake fluid/rust breaks away and allows the nut to spin freely, then coat the back of it with silicon paste and screw in.

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I had to pull the regulator line off to free these ones up. Lovely and free now though :). I really do think the issue is screwing these on when soaking in brake fluid ... that dries out over the next few years glueing everything together. ie: I've coated it wth silicon paste to prevent brake fluid filling the voids.
 
So 3 days off ... a nothing done ... I could have had this car back together is a day easily.... 36degrees outside means probably 50degrees in the shed though (so certainly a no go zone).

anyways.
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I was plugging the fuel line on and noticed the nylon line -> fuel pump rubber elbow was heavy (very heavily) perished. No worries, a bit of fuel line and it will be as good as new ....... er .... 6mm ryslin/nylon line ... 8mm fitting on the pump .... Seriously ?? So I need a line that is 8mm one end and 6mm the other.

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So I had a good look around. There isn't many rubber return lines on this car. Intersting they measure at 8mm and about 6.3mm ... yeah, they are imperial (really citroen ... imperial ??). that's 5/16s and 1/4" right?

anyway, I was looking at the swollen bulge at the end of that return line pictured above .... Hmmmmm.

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Really, it measures 12.4mm .... bloody citroen, 8mm tube with a 12.4mm end on it. Now this appears to be imperial again. 1/2" is 12.7mm.

So I need a 5/16's EPDM line with a 1/2" end on it ... and what is probably a fuel line with 5/16" one end of 1/4" the other end.... Yay. I'm going to make pirteks day when I get up there and try to explain this to them (Hopefully they have brass adapters from one size line to the other).
 
Ah the joys of vegetable fluid cars. I suggest you be very careful when dealing with press on pipe on old yellowed nylon fittings. The only dramas we ever had with a 68 ( LHM ) was a T junction return line from the accumulator ... much mess but still allowed 40 brake applications before pressure exhaustion.
 
We have been having fun .... under the car and I a very slowly growing puddle of gear oil on That's strange. leaking output seals would be over next to the brake disc. Those bolts must be through into the gearbox sump? I'll try pulling them out and putting thread sealer on them. Maybe I caused this myself by putting modern very thin gearbox oil in there (I figured 75/80 grade gearbox oil would be way better... also in the CX gearbox too). I'm sure they would have used these thinner oils if they existed at the time 🤔
They had low viscosity gear oils back then, just not multi-grades.
A lot of manufacturers also used engine oil or ATF in their manual transmissions back in the '50s and '60s.
Having said that your 75/80 gear oil has roughly the viscosity equivalence of an SAE 30W engine oil.
Type F (which was the common ATF back then) has roughly an SAE 20W viscosity index.
I remember a '70s 4 speed manual Volvo I had, suffered from a noticeable input shaft bearing rattle in neutral.
I swapped out the factory ATF for 20/50 engine oil and problem solved. The shift was slightly "firmer" in cold weather (until it warmed up a bit), but otherwise.🤷‍♂️
 
Whenever I see your photos I can’t help but feel jealous about your workshop!
Its mostly cheap junk. I've been collecting cheap/junk tools since I was 16years old... I'm nearly 50years old now... so your looking at 36years of collecting the cheapest junk I could find at the time :) If you asked me about the shed, I'd tell you everything wrong with it, not what is now usable. I guess we always see what "we want" as apposed to what we have :) 20+ years ago when I got most of the cars here, they were worthless too. $500 bucks would buy an ID19 to tinker with ... CX's were maybe $1500 for a driver.
 
Ah the joys of vegetable fluid cars. I suggest you be very careful when dealing with press on pipe on old yellowed nylon fittings. The only dramas we ever had with a 68 ( LHM ) was a T junction return line from the accumulator ... much mess but still allowed 40 brake applications before pressure exhaustion.
I'm fortunate thee is very few rubber return lines on these cars... so i'm just going to replace them all. The nylon is in remarkably good shape. I did search the parts cars for the fuel line elbow. The parts car wtih no bonnet ... its fuel line disintegrated to the touch. So it not UV stable, but given its out of the sun, it seems to last forever :dance: All the small nylon return lines and hydraulic fittings (and fuel line) really are amazing products to still be 100% usable ... 70 years later :)
 
They had low viscosity gear oils back then, just not multi-grades.
A lot of manufacturers also used engine oil or ATF in their manual transmissions back in the '50s and '60s.
Having said that your 75/80 gear oil has roughly the viscosity equivalence of an SAE 30W engine oil.
Type F (which was the common ATF back then) has roughly an SAE 20W viscosity index.
I remember a '70s 4 speed manual Volvo I had, suffered from a noticeable input shaft bearing rattle in neutral.
I swapped out the factory ATF for 20/50 engine oil and problem solved. The shift was slightly "firmer" in cold weather (until it warmed up a bit), but otherwise.🤷‍♂️

I've been convinced of thinner oil in citroen gearboxes since the Citroen CX 4spds. The ones running gear oil, wore out synchros (and the synchro running surfaces on the gears) in a very short time span. The C-matics that is a 4spd gearbox, with 1st gear removed and a pump rather than a clutch .... running Type F ATF. Those synchros seemed to last the life of the car. The only difference is the oil being used!

I'm sure the bearings and gears wore more heavily running ATF( ?? ) but even if they did, it was far outside the milage most cars would do in there lifetime :)


seeya
Shane L.
 
So I just whipped upto enzed .... they had exactly what I needed there. They only had 2.5 meters of the 8mm line, but I figured it owuld be enough, and 1 meter of 6mm line. They label it as remote brake reseviour line (not heater hose, same stuff). So I grabbed that, two brass fittings and a tiny chunk of 1/2" epdm and 6mm fuel line.

"That'll be $186.00 mate" ... after I picked myself up off the floor ... for some weird reason I queried the price. Get this ... $50 a meter :eek: The epdm heater hose is $7.00 a meter that I found. So obviously, I'm ordering that line online .... :)

seeya,
Shane L.
 
A motor sport supplier here charges like that also--
Bizarre its just EPDM hose that isn't really re-enforced. the markup on it must be 1000%! The heater hose will have more re-enforcement, so shoudl be more expensive, not a tiny fraction of the price .....
 
to put it into perspective. 5meters for $23 including delivery.


Note: the cross section view. it is the same stuff. possibly its certified for brake fluid ? and the other staff has official certification :unsure:
 
So I just whipped upto enzed .... they had exactly what I needed there. They only had 2.5 meters of the 8mm line, but I figured it owuld be enough, and 1 meter of 6mm line. They label it as remote brake reseviour line (not heater hose, same stuff). So I grabbed that, two brass fittings and a tiny chunk of 1/2" epdm and 6mm fuel line.

"That'll be $186.00 mate" ... after I picked myself up off the floor ... for some weird reason I queried the price. Get this ... $50 a meter :eek: The epdm heater hose is $7.00 a meter that I found. So obviously, I'm ordering that line online .... :)

seeya,
Shane L.
My standard line anywhere I go for car project materials is " how much is it, you've got to ask these days I suppose"?

I was in Supercheap the other day and their large rattle cans of primer, spray putty, satin black etc are near enough $30 a can now.
It wasn't that long ago they were $12.99.
What I presume are brass fittings must surely be made of gold?
Unless it's a simple hose tail the prices have gone through the roof.

I'm guessing you told Enzed your bits were for an old Citroen, and they figured you must be loaded.😉
 
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