The Adblue product and its suitability in Peugeots

Nagaman said:
I seem to recall something about the truck AdBlue not being the same and thus not a source for cars. Any idea what the difference is?.
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Adblue is an ISO standard (ISO 22241) and can't be sold as adblue unless it meets the standard, so all adblue is the same.
The different locations of where the filler might be fitted in a car is the problem. Most PSA cars have the filler under the boot floor, so might be hard to fill from a high flow bowser meant for trucks.
 
gromzx said:
Adblue is an ISO standard (ISO 22241) and can't be sold as adblue unless it meets the standard, so all adblue is the same.
The different locations of where the filler might be fitted in a car is the problem. Most PSA cars have the filler under the boot floor, so might be hard to fill from a high flow bowser meant for trucks.
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Yeah, it’s just that the truck outlet said not suitable for cars.
A 20L drum would be ideal I would have thought........if the price difference made it worthwhile.


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As I'm rather new to this Forum and its 'workings'. In my last 'reply' I thanked those of you who had 'run' along the thread at the time; it all helped me understand the issues. Now, as a result I took my vehicle to a Peugeot service centre of long standing, who were, fortunately, able to 'purge' the Adblue out of the system and manually clean the filter and the car is now running very well (and no more turbo drop outs). Armed with the information from the forum I successfully challenged the offending company which caused the problem and recovered from them their costs for fitting the Adblue and the cost to me of restoring the system to its proper state.

Thanks to you all again!
 
A great result - happy to have helped !

Cheers

Justin
 
Is wonder if we will ever get a ‘combined’ consumption figure for AdBlue from manufacturers. I’m thinking not.


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I suspect those reading Mercedes Benz marketing material aren't concerned with "lowest cost per km" either.
 
SLC206 said:
I suspect those reading Mercedes Benz marketing material aren't concerned with "lowest cost per km" either.
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That wasn’t the point but simply an example of the new dark arts which aren’t ‘features’ you are expected, as a consumer, to be interested in. Like GPF introduction, it won’t be in any brochure simply because the anti pollution ancillaries represent the achilles heal of the modern diesel.
The true cost of long term ownership is something you simply can’t nail down anymore.



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A passenger with industry credentials, fwiw, mentioned Adblue shelf life - 30 days from opening container.
Thought it may be worth noting.
 
That's a Port Douglas summer. The standard requires a shelf life of a year unopened. Once opened it depends on temperature. Most of us could get 6 months with the lid on tight..
 
considering it might stay in the tank in your car for a year or more... :rolleyes:
 
gromzx said:
Correct.
urea is not urine.
It's made from ammonia and CO[SUB]2 [/SUB]and is commonly used as fertilizer. In the case of adblue, because it is being used as a chemical catalyst, it is of vary high quality and purity, so DIYing it is not realy a good idea.
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Urea is a colourless crystalline compound which is the main nitrogenous breakdown product of protein metabolism in mammals and is excreted in urine. So, if you have the kit, you can refine the urea in your own urine to the same standard as "adpiss". Go for it! I have a Renault which costs nothing extra to pass emissions tests.
 
To add to the topic-

I have just purchased a 3008, 2011 year, with the 2 L HDI diesel, it will have the DPF additive and the Adblue.

Klms just on 80K, so there is another learning curve on several levels and on my learning journey are there any comments about the 3008 (other than 'whatever did you do the for' of course) that might be of use?
 
2.0 HDI from 2011 - are you sure about Adblue? This came in with the last Euro emission spec. There is a filler cap near the fuel cap.

The additive to enable regeneration of the particle filter is held in a tank under the body with some injected into the fuel tank after a top up. Most people get about 160,000 km before a refill, which needs a computer reset at the same time.
 
WAOFFROG said:
I have just purchased a 3008, 2011 year, with the 2 L HDI diesel, it will have the DPF additive and the Adblue.

Klms just on 80K, so there is another learning curve on several levels and on my learning journey are there any comments about the 3008 (other than 'whatever did you do the for' of course) that might be of use?
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No adblue in any psa before 2014 euro 6 Mazda had it around 06 from memory you said before you had ‘someone’ put it in your eolys tank? The thing to take away from all of this is don’t touch these systems until you get a indication that top up or service required, they are not ment to be serviced just as a matter of fact. The start blocking system gives you enough warning to drive from Sydney to Brisbane and back so relax and enjoy your cars.


Garage C5 X7 3008 XTE
Gone but not forgotten 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 505 GR xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
Fix it right the first time
 
Well, hello, Gary,

I have just discovered your post (I haven't looked at the site for some months) and it takes me back to my experiences a year or so ago and your ERG question struck a chord with me.

In my case (2005 407 2 L HDI), at about 180k the engine would begin a process at idle/light pedal pressure of, revs hunting, where they fell about 150 RPM, then would immediately recover, then down again, etc., and this would go on for about 20 minutes. I could not get any useful info to explain this activity, but at the end of the 20 minutes all would be OK again for some weeks, whence it would happen again. Acceleration would stop the 'hunting', and selecting 'N' at lights would stop the car moving about. So in these ways I could control the annoyance factor and live with it, so to speak.

At some point it was suggested to me that "blanking off the ERG might fix the problem". This was from a "Volvo trained mobile mechanic". This hoped for fix was not effective, unfortunately, and at last I'm about to have the EGR replaced (I got one from a wrecker and have cleaned it up and my very good mechanic will fit it shortly).

In the interim I have learned a lot about this 'hunting' issue, both from the forum and from Regan Motors Service in Auburn, Melbourne. It is all related to the matter of the DPF regeneration process, which, in my case was that I needed to have more frequent runs of sufficient speed and distance to generate the heat necessary to 'burn-off' the particle filter. AND THE EGR Valve plays a role in this process, which is inhibited by it's being blanked off. So, whilst I don't expect the un-blanking of the EGR valve will fix the 'hunting issue' it will play its part and this, together with my 'driving sensitivity', will likely allow me to control it better as I now know why it is happening!

Together with a very good auto service business here in Perth (which happily is near where I live) there is now a far better understanding of this DPF process and this is something that occurs in the trucking industry, apparently, and there is a company who cuts open the DPF casing and then 'roasts' the inner filter in a high temp oven and then reassembles/rewelds the casing and that should return the filter to new/empty condition. And as my 407 is now past 200,000 Kms and going very well it should go one for another 200,000.

In the mean time I have just purchased a 2011, 3008 with the 2 L HDI engine and at 80,000 Kms I will now research what the DPF treatments are for it...................wish me luck!

Wordy, but I hope this helps a bit.

Regards,

Notrog
 
Thanks for your post, so the 3008 then, essentially, has the same treatment as the 3008, the eolys installed by PSA, good. And yes I did have the warnings that the 'additive was running low' and that was where the 'story' really got interesting!

Notrog
 
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