R8 upgrade project
- Thread starter brettr
- Start date
They are just madin's courtesy of mecaparts.
And only a paltry 853 euros delivered.
Oh hang on, I was using the conversion from paseo's, I just looked at the euro conversion and suddenly feel unwell.
And to answer ceenines question of will it ever make it to the road this has been done in the last month or so as a daily driver.
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And only a paltry 853 euros delivered.
Oh hang on, I was using the conversion from paseo's, I just looked at the euro conversion and suddenly feel unwell.
And to answer ceenines question of will it ever make it to the road this has been done in the last month or so as a daily driver.
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Hmmm. Blue car - yella wheels? Got to see this one, brett. You might end up excommunicated by the fashon brigade for unholly colour mix.
Check this out Schlitz, it will change your mind
1965 Renault 8 Gordini for Sale | Classic Cars for Sale UK
Um the current set is yellow too! They've been on for 6 years already.
I've never been worried about what others think.
Personally I think there is nothing worse going to a car show and it looks like someone has gone mental with the ctrl c and ctrl v keys, but each to there own!
So I started working this week on perfecting the cold start routines in the ecu. It's pretty close now to firing on the first revolution and settling immediately into a nice idle.
I'm going to change the intercooler to an air to water and run the radiator up front then it will be ready for a dyno session.
Checking the torque app this morning after 35ks to work in the traffic and it's showing under 8.9L per 100. I think by the time I get to a final tune it would be under 8 and also I wasn't driving it like an old lady either!
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I've never been worried about what others think.
Personally I think there is nothing worse going to a car show and it looks like someone has gone mental with the ctrl c and ctrl v keys, but each to there own!
So I started working this week on perfecting the cold start routines in the ecu. It's pretty close now to firing on the first revolution and settling immediately into a nice idle.
I'm going to change the intercooler to an air to water and run the radiator up front then it will be ready for a dyno session.
Checking the torque app this morning after 35ks to work in the traffic and it's showing under 8.9L per 100. I think by the time I get to a final tune it would be under 8 and also I wasn't driving it like an old lady either!
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
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Very nice display, although Mr Plod could have a lot of fun with that print-out.
They have developed an annoying habit of downloading one's computer data after an indiscretion
Got a bit of a fright when scrolling through my GPS, to see it had archived "maximum speed achieved" . Oops
Andrew
They have developed an annoying habit of downloading one's computer data after an indiscretion
Got a bit of a fright when scrolling through my GPS, to see it had archived "maximum speed achieved" . Oops
Andrew
The reading is real time instantly. On a left hand bend you can see the RHS pressures rise as the working side tyres warm up under load. Some basic production cars have them too, the new Hyundai i30 comes to mind.
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I've been looking at those things for a while, but was wondering how reliable they are. What I am concerned about is that they need to keep the pressure chamber open to the sensor somehow, hence a failure point introduced in the system, and I am not sure what you'd do if the seal failed. Does the sender have its own valve, or does it just rely on slightly depressing the tire valve to read pressure?
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Chris is right it's a live feed.
I've used it to settle on my running pressures. If I run 26 front and 31 rear and do semi-normalish driving then I get a pretty consistent 2 psi rise all round and virtually identical temperatures all round. So seems like a good split.
And yes Schlitz it depresses the valve stem.
And i wouldn't worry about introducing a weak point into the system as that is the sole domain of French car manufacturers.
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I've used it to settle on my running pressures. If I run 26 front and 31 rear and do semi-normalish driving then I get a pretty consistent 2 psi rise all round and virtually identical temperatures all round. So seems like a good split.
And yes Schlitz it depresses the valve stem.
And i wouldn't worry about introducing a weak point into the system as that is the sole domain of French car manufacturers.
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Tyre pressure monitors were also available as standard on some Renault models.
This is a JA Scenic, no doubt other models have the feature available too.
Doesn't tell you the actual pressure but if good/no good.
View attachment Renault_scenic_owners_manual_2000 2.11.pdfView attachment Renault_scenic_owners_manual_2000 2.12.pdf
This is a JA Scenic, no doubt other models have the feature available too.
Doesn't tell you the actual pressure but if good/no good.
View attachment Renault_scenic_owners_manual_2000 2.11.pdfView attachment Renault_scenic_owners_manual_2000 2.12.pdf
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So been sitting for 7 months while I moved house amongst other things.
Was sidelined from a leaking radiator, about the only part still from when I bought the car.
Using a Nissan 300zx radiator for stock as it's dual row 56mm thick, crossflow, and 600mm wide so fits in between the sway bar mounts.
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Was sidelined from a leaking radiator, about the only part still from when I bought the car.
Using a Nissan 300zx radiator for stock as it's dual row 56mm thick, crossflow, and 600mm wide so fits in between the sway bar mounts.
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‘Bout time buddy, we’ve been sweating on an update.
KB
KB
So it came up like this which replicated my old 600mm x 150mm counterflowed radiator.
But no matter what we tried we could not get a weld seal on the centre seam tops on the opposite end to the pipes
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But no matter what we tried we could not get a weld seal on the centre seam tops on the opposite end to the pipes
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The fin sections are some strange 1000 or 2000 series aluminium as the tubes are fusion brazed on. This is what I'm led to believe anyway.
I had luck with 4040 filler rod sticking it to the tanks which were garden variety 5005 (structural butter).
I was originally going to do something like what you have attempted but couldn't work out how I'd get the non pipe end to seal. If you don't get it right first time there is no way to go back and fix it.
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I had luck with 4040 filler rod sticking it to the tanks which were garden variety 5005 (structural butter).
I was originally going to do something like what you have attempted but couldn't work out how I'd get the non pipe end to seal. If you don't get it right first time there is no way to go back and fix it.
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When I did the Floride radiator I repeated the R8G setup with a core from Paul Weel (PWR) in Qld rather than go to a cheaper offshore alternative.
I figured that if they have set the standard in Australia for race car applications and now have a big share of the race scene in USA it should be OK to use their core in my Renault 4 cylinder stuff.
They did a thick core to my specs similar to the A110 factory unit and we welded the tanks on to our own design.
The setup was initially track tested on a 37 degree day at Eastern Creek and kept the temps around 85 degree while putting a gap on most of the Clios and a couple of Meganes.
I know the PWR stuff is more expensive initially but it saves a lot of time, stress and drama in the longer term and you have direct access to their engineers if you have any issues with design or thermo performance.
Apart from the improved efficiency with a PWR core they are designed to withstand a lot of vibration and heat cycle stress so they are not likely to split or crack and are easy to weld.
I figured that if they have set the standard in Australia for race car applications and now have a big share of the race scene in USA it should be OK to use their core in my Renault 4 cylinder stuff.
They did a thick core to my specs similar to the A110 factory unit and we welded the tanks on to our own design.
The setup was initially track tested on a 37 degree day at Eastern Creek and kept the temps around 85 degree while putting a gap on most of the Clios and a couple of Meganes.
I know the PWR stuff is more expensive initially but it saves a lot of time, stress and drama in the longer term and you have direct access to their engineers if you have any issues with design or thermo performance.
Apart from the improved efficiency with a PWR core they are designed to withstand a lot of vibration and heat cycle stress so they are not likely to split or crack and are easy to weld.
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