Project Belle'

[Dano]

Tinkered with the Ute semaphores today with success.

After reviewing the wiring diagrams and trawling through Google/YouTube videos, there was no logical explanation as to why there are four terminals on the Ute version of the semaphores. Two looked like wire connections the others just bolts. A Multimeter confirmed current flowed through the bottom two, which activated the solenoid and bulb.

With no evidence of power going to the top two terminals (?) it was assumed that they were either earths or mounting points. After carefully dismantling the flashing unit from the housing, it became evident that they were mounting bolts.

Mounting the flasher unit into a vice, power was connected to each of the two bottom terminals separately. As stated before, one operated the bulb and the second the solenoid. Both circuits worked perfectly independently. The two terminals were then configured into a parallel configuration with small jump wires. With power reapplied, the arm raised and the bulb glowed. The arm did however, raise slowly and not to its full height. From long ago foggy memory, I recalled this happening on other 203’s I’d seen.

As a precautionary measure, the semaphores will be fitted with solid-state flashing LED’s These will negate the need to run additional wiring and a flasher can unit etc.. At any time into the future, standard non-flashing Festoon bulbs can be re-installed. For some reason and I am assuming that the LED draws less current than the festoon bulb, thus supplying more current to the solenoid, which in turn enabled it to open to full height. (?)

To insert the new units into the existing housing, some slight modifications will need to be made.

The power source connections are at the base of the units within the sedan versions and the Ute version, enter through the rear of the housing. This will be overcome by re-routing the wires within the base of the units.

The Ute units are more rectangular in shape as opposed to the slightly tapered sedan version.

As are the internals of the units. This won’t be a problem as the arm recoil bush (Rubber grommet) can be trimmed to allow the arm to return to a lower position within the sedan housing.

Click on the image to play video.

A little knowledge can be dangerous at times, but it paid off this morning.

Cheers,

Dano

 

[Commerciale]

Dan, refer to my recent email on this subject. The second terminal is a later modification to route the bulb through the dash tell-tale. Also, check that all joints are free and lubricated and that the earthing bolts are free of corrosion. Rule number one when dealing with electrickery is to check the earth first!

 

[Dano]

Put Belle up on the new rotisserie today.

A bit of dicking around, but it is perfectly balanced. It will stop anywhere, throughout a 360-degree rotation. Couldn’t make it for the price.

A couple of stills of what was found.

The replacement Peugeot Press panels will make the job a lot easier. Still a lot of work though.

The following link is a walk past from the back to front.

Cheers,



Dano

 

[Dano]

This gem arrived in the mail today.

Thanks to Alastair Inglis and Geoff Higson both members of Club Peugeot UK, for making this happen.

It is a RHD gear lever steering column cover. A very rare item!

The seller in France, was reluctant to send it outside of France. With Alastair’s help and Geoff’s trip to France, it has found its way down under.

The worldwide Peugeot 203 fellowship is alive and well.

Cheers,

Dano

 

[Peter C]

What a great find. If a I remember correctly, Gordon Miller once had some cast in aluminium alloy. That was many years ago and they were rare back then.

 

[Dano]

Spent the morning measuring and tri-angulating every reference point that could found on the floorpan of Belle.

The replacement floorpans are very close to shape. However the thinking is, Pascal must make them a little oversize to allow for fitting and trimming into the chassis of different vehicles. The downside is, there are no in floor mounting bolts or drain holes that can be used as reference points, so every bolt, bolt hole and drain hole in the existing floors, were measured and cross referenced in preparation for transposing to the new floor sections. This was followed by doing the same for the front bumper box channel, radiator mounting points, battery trays and backing panels. Sill and door openings were also done.

To repair the front chassis rails and removal of the bumper box section, will require supporting the chassis where the engine crossmember is mounted and removal of the front half of the rotisserie.

These NOS panels have been acquired over time.

The battery tray and backing panel (Righthand side) will be used as a guide to fabricate the bottom quarter (As outlined) then that will be grafted into to the new battery tray section and lefthand side existing backing panel.

The complete cross section will save a lot fabrication work.

Where to start first is the question. That will take a few more cups of tea and periods of staring at it. Now matter where it starts, it will require the removal of many previously patched and bogged sections.

 

[Steven King]

obviously if the bottom was ground off flush you could offer up the pressings to trace and punch the locations?
rather than just assuming a) you have this and b) it's no help without triangulations, pls find att.:

and lemme know if you can use it as a 1MB pdf

 

[Steven King]

Appears the backseat floor met the prop shaft at some stage? seems rather severe ...

 

[Steven King]

- that said, my 56 wagon had probably had it's leaves reversed more than once

 

[Dano]

obviously if the bottom was ground off flush you could offer up the pressings to trace and punch the locations?
rather than just assuming a) you have this and b) it's no help without triangulations, pls find att.:
View attachment 219462
and lemme know if you can use it as a 1MB pdf

Hi Steve,

That will be a big help (PDF). Best part from what I can gather so far, is the measurements taken are the same as in the image?

What manual did you source the image from? I can't find it in any of the ones I have.

Will PM you my email address.

Cheers

Dano

 

[Dano]

Some more bling bits for the old girl. Period driving lights. Not French , but right era.
Thanks Scott, a good find at the swap meet.

 

[Dano]

Trial test patch for the right-side A Pillar was made this arvo.

First up the damaged area was taped up for marking out purposes.

Offcuts of 20mm hardwood were used to make the profiling bucks. An upper and bottom were shaped. The bottom one, incorporated the curve and incline of the front panel.

The top one was simply curved to act as clamp to secure the metal in place. All three pieces were screwed together.

Using an array of hammers, the metal was caressed into the profile of the bottom buck.

It appears to be the be a good fit. Next step is to cut out the rust and match the patch to the hole.

 

[Steven King]

This is under the back corner of the bonnet? Why does that rust - sunroof drain ?
FWIW, that taping reminded me of an airframe restorers trick for getting a 3D template for complex compound curved sections using a tape that incorporated woven fibre, layers of it, applied crossply, so it held or returned to the shape after being peeled off ...

 

[Peter C]

Very impressive work, Dan. Lessons well learnt from the 404!

 

[Dano]

Yeah, it is an interesting place for rust. The car doesn't have a sunroof and the panel is a single skin.

It appears to be the only rust in the car, above the floor line and sills.

The tape method is a handy tip, which was picked up from an old school panel beater who helped rebuild the lower windscreen and air dam channel panels on the 404. The method he used, was to apply layers of masking tape in opposite directions. His thinking was it won’t stretch. The tape is applied without stretching it tight, thus preventing the pull back effect of tape under tension. As Steven mentioned, the layers can be peeled off and laid out on the new metal for tracing etc.

The image below, is the damage to the left side which is similar to that on the right side.

 

[Dano]

Appears the backseat floor met the prop shaft at some stage? seems rather severe ...

Was a little concerned about the creased floor (left image), until the image on the right was spotted on the web.
Looks like it has the same bend webbing on the leading edge near the seat brace.

 

[alpine]

This slightly enlarged schematic should make it easy to copy and create new wiring looms for Belle.
It has been printed in A1 format, 841 x 594 mm. The numbers etc are extremely clear. No distortion from the original PDF, which came out of the owner's glovebox handbook.
View attachment 217962

Dan, if you are going to make your own loom i have a box of s/h numbered peugeot ends if you would like them .
it is pretty straight forward to make your own loom using an original pegged on a board(may be able help with an original loom )
black cloth tape on fleabay is good the wrap the loom

 

[Steven King]

looking at floor photos from now on, but you may find this comforting too;

 

[Dano]

looking at floor photos from now on, but you may find this comforting too;
View attachment 220587

Ooh, things aren't that bad.

 

[Dano]

On the weekend, it was time to restarted work on Belle again.

In preparation to remove and replace the floor panels, sills and the ‘B’ pillar for repairs, a rear door space template was produced. This panel will ensure that the Sills and ‘B’ pillar go back exactly into place.

As the pillars will be cut out, 25mm square section tubes were cut to length to brace the roof into place. The tube will be attached to the internal roof re-enforcing panel and the transmission tunnel.

Every thing is measured twice if not more and written onto the braces or panels.

This is where things came to stop. Connected the welder etc, only to find the cylinder gauge indicated it was empty. Mmmm!

Only one pillar needs reapairing, although both will be replaced. A NOS pillar was found sometime ago for the other side. Having a clean/new pillar will make it easier to create patch panel sections.

The obvious rust throughout the car will be removed/repaired before the shell and doors etc. are sandblasted. Last time it was blasted first, but the protective covering caused more issues than wanted.