performance 8v cylinder head build

way 2 go hey

same here !
i can't wait to read how this 8V build pans out.

It's really exciting to see a 'quality versus quantity' approach toward Peugeot engine refinements.

You've stuck your neck out and put time into thinking it through, adapting your plan to suit the overall situation.

I admit i felt ashamed when you had wrong head bolts like how could you do it and what on Earth you expect? :cry::rolleyes:
an alloy head is made out of cheese don't forget. :confused:

we live and learn and often brains aren't as good as retrospect.
when we find out the hard way and look a dill at least we learn.

documenting this rebuild shows a high standard of expression.
Now you got a good tip to extend the main-cap bolts. :cheers:
pointers from the pros are the dividend of talented innovators.
all in all a brilliant effort and a street 205 GTi deserves merit.
 
205 data disc

this is great thread you are maintaining and interesting
i note you mention using the Haynes workshop manual
there is at least a parts-data manual on CD for Peugeot
that i got online which is three compact discs :cool:
with all the 205 and 405 etc. parts in their exploded-views
also there is a factory book for the XU9JA engine
so far i haven't got this book as yet :rolleyes:
i'll sing-out if i find a copy available in future
if it's any help i can upload diagrams from the CD. :confused:
 
chez00 said:
Finally have it tuned and running sweet, although I could tune forever and tweak it bit by bit. With competition starting on the 31st of this month though its time to pull it off the dyno and get it in the car this weekend. Pretty happy with the results although I reckon I could still still squeeze out a few ponies with some more work on the advance curve. Peak power is 113Kw (151hp) @7000RPM or thereabouts, with a solid torque band throughout, peaking at 172Nm (which I think is a little low? I'm new to tuning). Because of our dyno being a very manual thing, I don't have any flash charts to post up but maybe one day I'll get around to charting it in excel. It revved no worries to 7750RPM where I set the limiter.
I'll probably end up getting it tested on a roller dyno at some stage and will be interesting to see the transmission losses.
I'm keen to see what that feels like in the car with my new LSD and 4.43 CWP with all new bushes and mounts!
Click to expand...

I'd be happy with that result! A 205 with that engine should move rather nicely :D :headbang:
 
I thought I should give a bit of a conclusion to this build thread.

The car is absolutely amazing.

I was a little uncertain about the route I took, knowing that the 16v engine makes excellent power with minimum fuss.

I'm yet to drive a 206mi16 but I reckon the setup I have would probably come close. The engine has been transformed into something that begs for RPM, it'll go all the way to 8000+ and loves being over 5500RPM where it really comes alive. A much different animal to the torquey but pedestrian DFZ of old.

The gearbox is very easy to use - a pleasure coming from mitsubishis. The 4.43 final drive ratio conversion would be the single best thing I did in this build I reckon, along with the LSD. I am running Dunlop Star Spec Z1 tyres (R14) which are very impressive, even in the wet.

I have relocated the battery to the rear and that was a very worthwhile move - better weight distribution (I really didn't expect to be able to notice the difference, but I can) and gained heaps of valuable under bonnet space.I still have a fair bit of wiring to re-route but have managed to retain the old loom's firewall grommet so it should end up fairly tidy.

Having all new mounts and bushings, the weakest link is now the rear beam which I can feel squirming around a little when under pressure. I have already bought solid beam mounts which I'll put in with my rear disc conversion which is sitting there waiting for some attention. The engine mounts I used were from baker BM and have AT LEAST doubled the in-cabin engine noise and vibrations, but feedback is excellent. The lightweight flywheel and crank, and the lumpy cam wouldn't help either.

I reckon I can throw the pug into a corner every bit as hard as my evo 7 and while it's not as brutally powerful I prefer the raw feedback you get from the pug - in short, I have a new favourite car.

It's hard to start in the morning but that is my tuning which is not quite right yet. I still haven't got the factory tacho working which is annoying but I haven't given it enough time to problem solve. If I send the tacho wire to one of my coils I get a "half" signal i.e. it reads, but not correctly. I guess this is because I'm running twin coils. Nothing happens if I hook it up to the wolf ECU's tacho output wire.

I have since had the driveshafts out as I must have punctured a boot on the right hand one and the left one was making some noise - it was stuffed. I fitted a decent second hand one today and she's good as gold. Aside from that, I don't have one oil leak which must be a bit of a rarity in a 205 judging by the half-dozen I've looked at.

I'll post some pics up over the next few days and weeks - I'm competing in the Collingrove winter cup hill climb this weekend which I'm really looking forward to - I might even post a video as my mate has a go pro. All in all, worth while but a massive mission that isn't over yet. :cheers: Big thanks to forum members particularly PeterT who has been a great help - your cam profile rocks!
 
About that tach feed off your ECU, perhaps you could measure the voltage and see if it's enough.

Or if you can get the info somewhere to see what the signal looks like, maybe we can help find how to convert the signal to a useable one for the tacho.

I am not sure, but looking at the wiring diagram in the book it looks like the S1 tacho signal is 12 V off the coil. If you take out the tacho, you will see a resistor in the signal path. That resistor is different to S3 cars (which probably take the feed off the ECU) and both are different again from the Si tach which takes it's feed off it's ECU too (or some other electronics).

Knowing very little about electronics I would guess signals off ECU units would be about 5V, so not enough to impress your tach which would expect to see 12. They would also be very low current which again doesn't help your cause.

I would try an S3 tach if you can get one, or an Si. Or both. That is if you can't put the Wolf signal on an oscilloscope.
 
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Andrew Ch said:
How did the car perform at Collingrove ?
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Excellent. The only weakness was the driver. I shaved my PB time by 1.8 seconds to 41.1, I reckon there's at least another second or probably two if I man up and throw it into some corners a bit harder. Very pleased. In context the quickest car in my class was a Lotus Elise whose quickest time was 38.4 I think. I beat a few and got beaten by a few, finished mid-field. The road registered track record fell to an EVO 7 RS with a time of 31.99! Phenomenal car, ballsy driver.
 
Chris, I am planning on running my car at Rob Roy soon. If we both went the numbers of 205's would go up by 200%!
Why is hill climbing fun when its such a short run? More of a rush?
 
Great to hear you're happy with the engine (and car).

Hillclimbs certainly are fun, I just did one last weekend in my Clio. :D :headbang:
Second in class to a Lotus Elise R that was running Toyo R888 semi-slicks while I was on Michelin PS3s...
 
PeterT said:
The 205 tacho relies on a 400V back emf from the original coil. You need to modify the tacho if want to use a low voltage 12V square wave from an ecu. Details here:

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=139234
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I don't believe the Si tacho gets 400V, because the Si I demolished takes its feed from the ECU through a normal little green wire.

The one on my car (87GTI) does indeed have a beefy shielded wire straight off the coil which I can believe would have 400V.

The other tachos I have came off unknown cars, so I would only speculate there.

Don't modify the tacho as explained in that website, you will destroy it. Those weights are there to calibrate the needle deflection to the spring elastic constant. The secret is in the electronics. Can't help you there, but it should be easy for an electronics engineer, perhaps Robmac here on the forum might chime in, or you can shoot him a pm, he's very nice.
 
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I've done at least 7 or 8 tachos that way now. You don't touch the weights. It's only an electronics modification.

That would be correct for an Si as it has two coils for wasted spark. If you took a feed off only one of the coils the tacho would run at 1/2 speed.

I'm actually speculating on the magnitude of the back emf, but it would be very high.
 
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