Yeah I just bent it on the press to follow the contour of the cast ribs on the sump spacer. I then tapped the four studs onto the small lugs on the ribs. That photo is only a mock-up: I did press some flats so that the nuts seated properly. I figured the factory one was held in by four studs so that'll do. It was actually quite rigid by the time I finished. A bit agricultural but will definitely do the job. I used super stud loctite and nylocs so I doubt anything will come loose. I had to cut a bit off to clear the oil pump, but I reckon it'll work.
performance 8v cylinder head build
- Thread starter chez00
- Start date
Been busy doing stuff but have got a goal: 31/03 is te Mt Alma Mile hillclimb and I've put my rego in!
Anyways, I've been tinkering with my spark control. I was going to use the original distributor but as PeterT and others have pointed out to me, this is a serious PITA to do. So, I've trodden my own path and am retrofitting a 4G63 cam angle sensor (VR4) to the pug. Reasons:
1) I have already balanced and lightened my s1 flywheel to the rotating assembly and couldn't bring myself to put an Mi flywheel with the crank sensor teeth on there. Also I've already bought my clutch kit (balanced too), so that kinda ruled that out.
2) I have owned 4g63's for the past 10 years, and have stacks of parts, including a cam angle sensor lying around
3) The Wolf ECU I'm using is already wired for a 4G63, complete with igniters, coils, trigger wheel etc saving me hundreds of dollars.
4) It's actually pretty painless! Having said all this, I still haven't run it!
Basically I machined a sleeve to retrofit the mitsi cam angle sensor to the larger pug dizzy snout that goes in the housing off the back of the head, complete with an o ring groove. I then retrofitted the offset key from the pug dizzy to the mitsi cam angle sensor. Finally I machined up a plate to suit the new slides. I'll post some photos when I get home, but I think it's come up pretty nicely.
Anyways, I've been tinkering with my spark control. I was going to use the original distributor but as PeterT and others have pointed out to me, this is a serious PITA to do. So, I've trodden my own path and am retrofitting a 4G63 cam angle sensor (VR4) to the pug. Reasons:
1) I have already balanced and lightened my s1 flywheel to the rotating assembly and couldn't bring myself to put an Mi flywheel with the crank sensor teeth on there. Also I've already bought my clutch kit (balanced too), so that kinda ruled that out.
2) I have owned 4g63's for the past 10 years, and have stacks of parts, including a cam angle sensor lying around
3) The Wolf ECU I'm using is already wired for a 4G63, complete with igniters, coils, trigger wheel etc saving me hundreds of dollars.
4) It's actually pretty painless! Having said all this, I still haven't run it!
Basically I machined a sleeve to retrofit the mitsi cam angle sensor to the larger pug dizzy snout that goes in the housing off the back of the head, complete with an o ring groove. I then retrofitted the offset key from the pug dizzy to the mitsi cam angle sensor. Finally I machined up a plate to suit the new slides. I'll post some photos when I get home, but I think it's come up pretty nicely.
am currently mounting the engine to the dyno. I'm pretty sure I've got the loom sorted, we'll see. A few pics of some recent progress:
Adaptor plate to allow the use of the cam angle sensor from a Mitsubishi 4G63 (VR4).
Sleeve to adapt CAS to distributor snub dimensions: seals nicely.
small fabricated bronze bush allows peugeot offset key to be retrofitted to mitsubishi CAS.
trigger wheel for wolf ECU located.
here it is all bolted together. Almost looks stock.
Finally hanging over the dyno ready to mount. I have fabricated two and a half mounts out of the four required, as well as a flywheel adaptor plate. I hope to have it running this weekend, fingers crossed!
Adaptor plate to allow the use of the cam angle sensor from a Mitsubishi 4G63 (VR4).
Sleeve to adapt CAS to distributor snub dimensions: seals nicely.
small fabricated bronze bush allows peugeot offset key to be retrofitted to mitsubishi CAS.
trigger wheel for wolf ECU located.
here it is all bolted together. Almost looks stock.
Finally hanging over the dyno ready to mount. I have fabricated two and a half mounts out of the four required, as well as a flywheel adaptor plate. I hope to have it running this weekend, fingers crossed!
Great work! Nice to have some skill and brains around.
I built up a sweet early 205 years ago and used , as you are, the std. exhaust manifold. In that car it had an engine pipe without the splitter plate and it was one size larger in diameter. Why the owner had this, I do not know but, that reworked engine with the std. cam sure does grunt. Might be worth considering for ease of access etc..
I built up a sweet early 205 years ago and used , as you are, the std. exhaust manifold. In that car it had an engine pipe without the splitter plate and it was one size larger in diameter. Why the owner had this, I do not know but, that reworked engine with the std. cam sure does grunt. Might be worth considering for ease of access etc..
Thanks guys!
Brief update:
Continued the slightly arduous process of hooking everything up on the dyno and cranked it over for the first time this morning and... nothing. To be expected I guess but I am currently chasing the cause of a weak injector pulse signal. It's presently not enough to inject fuel even though the rail has fuel pressure.
A few pics:
you can see the funny cylinder thing hooked up to it - what that is is a pressurised cylinder which charges the galleries, bearings and nooks and crannies with oil to prevent the severe wear that fresh engines experience on start up. With the new sump set-up it took about seven litres, which I'm very pleased with.
Here it is all hooked up to fuel, the inbuilt radiator (which has a bunch of thermofans running) and all of the diagnostics such as a wide band O2 sensor, master oil pressure gauge, exhaust temp, coolant temp, fuel pressure etc etc. The dyno allows you to program a bunch of warning perimeters so that, for example, if the oil pressure drops below a certain pre-determined point, it will put the engine into limp mode or shut it off to protect it from further damage. This is particularly useful when running the engine in and are unable to monitor every gauge at once.
I'm sure I'll get to the bottom of the weak injector pulse in the next couple of evenings and will have some power figures this week if it isn't something detrimental like a cooked ECU.
Brief update:
Continued the slightly arduous process of hooking everything up on the dyno and cranked it over for the first time this morning and... nothing. To be expected I guess but I am currently chasing the cause of a weak injector pulse signal. It's presently not enough to inject fuel even though the rail has fuel pressure.
A few pics:
you can see the funny cylinder thing hooked up to it - what that is is a pressurised cylinder which charges the galleries, bearings and nooks and crannies with oil to prevent the severe wear that fresh engines experience on start up. With the new sump set-up it took about seven litres, which I'm very pleased with.
Here it is all hooked up to fuel, the inbuilt radiator (which has a bunch of thermofans running) and all of the diagnostics such as a wide band O2 sensor, master oil pressure gauge, exhaust temp, coolant temp, fuel pressure etc etc. The dyno allows you to program a bunch of warning perimeters so that, for example, if the oil pressure drops below a certain pre-determined point, it will put the engine into limp mode or shut it off to protect it from further damage. This is particularly useful when running the engine in and are unable to monitor every gauge at once.
I'm sure I'll get to the bottom of the weak injector pulse in the next couple of evenings and will have some power figures this week if it isn't something detrimental like a cooked ECU.
Finally have it tuned and running sweet, although I could tune forever and tweak it bit by bit. With competition starting on the 31st of this month though its time to pull it off the dyno and get it in the car this weekend. Pretty happy with the results although I reckon I could still still squeeze out a few ponies with some more work on the advance curve. Peak power is 113Kw (151hp) @7000RPM or thereabouts, with a solid torque band throughout, peaking at 172Nm (which I think is a little low? I'm new to tuning). Because of our dyno being a very manual thing, I don't have any flash charts to post up but maybe one day I'll get around to charting it in excel. It revved no worries to 7750RPM where I set the limiter.
I'll probably end up getting it tested on a roller dyno at some stage and will be interesting to see the transmission losses.
I'm keen to see what that feels like in the car with my new LSD and 4.43 CWP with all new bushes and mounts!
I'll probably end up getting it tested on a roller dyno at some stage and will be interesting to see the transmission losses.
I'm keen to see what that feels like in the car with my new LSD and 4.43 CWP with all new bushes and mounts!
I'd be happy with that from my engine
good work
good work
If we are to believe what David says on the Puma site, your torque is about 66ft*lbs per litre which is 2 up from a normal 1.9l which I guess is a good thing. His point is that you can't really expect much more than that form a 2 valve engine without serious engine (read head) work.
http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/POWER2.htm
I think you should be pretty happy with the outcome. Bear in mind though you don't have a full length exhaust.
Excellent work! A genuine 151hp is very respectable on a std inlet and really what is still a reasonably "standard" engine. I'm confident your car will really shift with the lower cwp. Just look how well Parry's car goes.
Puma is a bit of a theorist. He doesn't rate very well in the Peugeot world.
Puma is a bit of a theorist. He doesn't rate very well in the Peugeot world.
Wonderful story - many thanks for explaining and illustrating what you have done so well for the rest of us.
Makes me think about the Citroen BX19 TZi engine........ Same as one of the 205 GTi types.
Cheers
This has been an awesome read Chez, have really appreciated your in depth detail and the pics, been a lot of help to me with my 8v cylinder head mods. Hoping the camshaft dialling in stuff will sink in after the 5th read!
Dave
Dave