Oil filter change interval

Doush_504

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Fellow Frogger
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Cairo, Egypt
G'day everyone

So my 504 had an oil change a year ago.
Liqui Moly High tec 5w40
Bosch oil filter

It has only done 4k Kms during this year.
I was thinking about changing the oil & keeping the filter for another year since it has done very little work.
Is this OK or should it be replaced ?

Regards,
 

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I would change the filter.

The 504 is the same era as my R12 and the R12 service intervals are 5,000 Km. The 504 would have similar service intervals.

I change the filter every time I change the oil.
 
I'm a little old fashioned when it comes to engine maintenance and not really comfortable with some of the long service intervals on newer vehicles. I change my engine oil and filters at 5000km. It doesnt take long. I see oil and filters as the cheapest engine parts and some of the most important when i comes to engine life.
 
Hi.

Why are you changing the oil at 4,000km? My personal opinion is that you are throwing away good oil and filter.

I suspect that the original Peugeot oil change intervals may have been based on mineral oils. If you are using full synthetic oil, two of the advantages are longer oil change intervals with better engine protection. Many vehicles these days are changing the engine oil at 15,000km to 20,000km.

I would be comfortable to change the oil at 10,000km, and also replace the oil filter at the same time.

To support this, refer to the below link where Fred was chaning his oil at 10,000km intervals, back in 2011.


Cheers.
 
You are absolutely right.
I am only changing it because it's been a year & that's it.
I know that the change intervals in the owner's manual are based on mineral oils that were available back then.
But with the oil I am using, I do have a feeling that it's too early.
Just feeling guilty to go over a year, but what encourages me a bit is that the car only does highway miles, no short trips or city driving, which I think can help me extend the interval comfortably.

Hi.

Why are you changing the oil at 4,000km? My personal opinion is that you are throwing away good oil and filter.

I suspect that the original Peugeot oil change intervals may have been based on mineral oils. If you are using full synthetic oil, two of the advantages are longer oil change intervals with better engine protection. Many vehicles these days are changing the engine oil at 15,000km to 20,000km.

I would be comfortable to change the oil at 10,000km, and also replace the oil filter at the same time.

To support this, refer to the below link where Fred was chaning his oil at 10,000km intervals, back in 2011.


Cheers.
 
Lots of people are.
I am not a big fan of throwing money away on something that is working just fine.
When I buy expensive synthetic oil, it's because I want it to last long as well as offer better protection.
Only those selling oil will try to convince you about the 3000 mile oil change.
I'm a little old fashioned when it comes to engine maintenance and not really comfortable with some of the long service intervals on newer vehicles. I change my engine oil and filters at 5000km. It doesnt take long. I see oil and filters as the cheapest engine parts and some of the most important when i comes to engine life.
 
You are absolutely right.
I am only changing it because it's been a year & that's it.
I know that the change intervals in the owner's manual are based on mineral oils that were available back then.
But with the oil I am using, I do have a feeling that it's too early.
Just feeling guilty to go over a year, but what encourages me a bit is that the car only does highway miles, no short trips or city driving, which I think can help me extend the interval comfortably.
Hi.

Out of interest, do you have a Peugeot maintenance schedule for your vehicle? If so, what engine oil change interval does that reccomend?

Provided that the vehicle is driven regularly and also get up to operating tempreture, you will be OK with distance based servicing. I have never been a supporter of time based servicing, as it is mostly based on obtaining revenue for oil suppliers and creating business for workshops, and wastes a lot of good oil and filters.

From your comments above, I would be feeling no guilt at all and would be very comfortable with extended oil change interval, providing you use full synthetic engine oils. Otherwise you are throwing away the many advances made over the past 40 years with oil technology.

Cheers.
 
I look at engine servicing this way, the oil will cost $40 to $70 depending on what you purchase; an oil filter is around $15. An engine rebuild will cost you $5000+ if you have to pay someone to do all the work for you. You do the maths.
 
5w-40 is way to thin for the OLD STYLE xn1 engine, 15w-40 is the thinnest I'd go, but had good experience with 20w-50 (HPR30 PENRITE) over the years, dad and my grandfather ran 20w 50 in 504, 505 xn1 engines since they were brand new at the dealer. Dad worked at East Ivanhoe motors.
5w40 is ideally good for over head cam late model engines.

Every 10,000km is perfect for it, if your racing or thrashing it I'd change every 5k, but our race cars get changed every 3events. But there's also no harm in over changing oil if you've got the money too,
But 4k between services is abit much unless cheap crap oil.
Cheers BP
 
G'day everyone

So my 504 had an oil change a year ago.
Liqui Moly High tec 5w40
Bosch oil filter

It has only done 4k Kms during this year.
I was thinking about changing the oil & keeping the filter for another year since it has done very little work.
Is this OK or should it be replaced ?

Regards,
It is OK to leave oil filter for another year at those kilometres. I do the same.

Annual oil change is a must, no matter how low the kilometres. Water condensation, etc builds up.

I change oil at every 5,000 kms and the filter every other time. For my low milage cars its oil change per annum and filter every 2nd year.
 
Annual oil change is a must, no matter how low the kilometres. Water condensation, etc builds up.
Hi.

I dissagree about the water condensation etc building up.

In post #5 the OP said "the car only does highway miles, no short trips or city driving"

Therefore the engine is running at full operating temperature, and any water condensation (and other volatiles) in the engine will be evaporated and purged via the crankcase ventilation system.

Cheers.
 
I look at engine servicing this way, the oil will cost $40 to $70 depending on what you purchase; an oil filter is around $15. An engine rebuild will cost you $5000+ if you have to pay someone to do all the work for you. You do the maths.
Ah, Grasshopper you forgot the new copper washer on the sump plug.
 
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I write down every single detail related to any work I do on the car (mechanical, electrical, AC ...) if this is what your asking.
But if you mean an official maintenance schedule from Peugeot, the answer will be no, I only have he owners manual.

Regarding the 2nd part, your logic is encouraging & the vehicle is only driven on the highway for a minimum of 20 Kms per trip.
Hi.

Out of interest, do you have a Peugeot maintenance schedule for your vehicle? If so, what engine oil change interval does that reccomend?

Provided that the vehicle is driven regularly and also get up to operating tempreture, you will be OK with distance based servicing. I have never been a supporter of time based servicing, as it is mostly based on obtaining revenue for oil suppliers and creating business for workshops, and wastes a lot of good oil and filters.

From your comments above, I would be feeling no guilt at all and would be very comfortable with extended oil change interval, providing you use full synthetic engine oils. Otherwise you are throwing away the many advances made over the past 40 years with oil technology.

Cheers.
 
I know the math.
But I just don't feel like throwing away money out of the fear that the oil companies try to infuse you with.
PS: I already have the oil, oil filter & copper washer at hand :D

I look at engine servicing this way, the oil will cost $40 to $70 depending on what you purchase; an oil filter is around $15. An engine rebuild will cost you $5000+ if you have to pay someone to do all the work for you. You do the maths.
 
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I used to use 10w40 as per the owner's manual recommendation.
Last year, I had the engine rebuilt & this is what encouraged me to go full synthetic 5w40 & so far it's been perfect with no oil consumption.
I don't want to change the oil at 4k at all & I know I am using high quality oil. It's just that it's been a year since my last oil change, this is why I am asking if I can go distance based rather than time based.
5w-40 is way to thin for the OLD STYLE xn1 engine, 15w-40 is the thinnest I'd go, but had good experience with 20w-50 (HPR30 PENRITE) over the years, dad and my grandfather ran 20w 50 in 504, 505 xn1 engines since they were brand new at the dealer. Dad worked at East Ivanhoe motors.
5w40 is ideally good for over head cam late model engines.

Every 10,000km is perfect for it, if your racing or thrashing it I'd change every 5k, but our race cars get changed every 3events. But there's also no harm in over changing oil if you've got the money too,
But 4k between services is abit much unless cheap crap oil.
Cheers BP
 
Hi.

Some good information here: https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Viscosity/237/what-is-an-sae-viscosity/180

I consider that many people are overly concerned about using modern oils in non modern engines. In particular low viscosity multigrade oils for cold starts. As you can see in the graph below there are three different oils with different starting grades 5W, 10W & 15W for alpine tempretures 0C; very soon at only 20C, the viscosities are already moving very close to each other. In fact for many engines in NSW, Qld, WA etc, the cold starting tempreture is already 20C+.

The longer term oil consumption will be more influenced by the hot viscosity index. And as you can see in the below graph, as the three sample oils are all 40, at 100C they are all the same viscosity. So whether you select an XW-30, XW-40, XW-50 etc will be the main consideration.

Personally I wonder why an owner might surrender the faster cranking speed, less stain on battery and starter motor, and more rapid oil flow via galleries to provide earlier lubrication of the crank & cam bearing and cam timing chains, and turbo bearings that low (cold) viscosity oils provide.

Cheers.

1656237733218.png
 
Very well said.
I do indeed intend to stick to 5w40 full SAPS fully synthetic.
I was worried at the beginning that it might be too light for the engine, but the rebuilt encouraged me to at least give it a try & monitor the consumption.

Hi.

Some good information here: https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Viscosity/237/what-is-an-sae-viscosity/180

I consider that many people are overly concerned about using modern oils in non modern engines. In particular low viscosity multigrade oils for cold starts. As you can see in the graph below there are three different oils with different starting grades 5W, 10W & 15W for alpine tempretures 0C; very soon at only 20C, the viscosities are already moving very close to each other. In fact for many engines in NSW, Qld, WA etc, the cold starting tempreture is already 20C+.

The longer term oil consumption will be more influenced by the hot viscosity index. And as you can see in the below graph, as the three sample oils are all 40, at 100C they are all the same viscosity. So whether you select an XW-30, XW-40, XW-50 etc will be the main consideration.

Personally I wonder why an owner might surrender the faster cranking speed, less stain on battery and starter motor, and more rapid oil flow via galleries to provide earlier lubrication of the crank & cam bearing and cam timing chains, and turbo bearings that low (cold) viscosity oils provide.

Cheers.

View attachment 206562
 
Not pug related specifically but should be the standard, get the oil tested! I did this on my Landcruiser, spec said city driving is arduous, 5K intervals, Test oil showed it very good still at 10K intervals. If you cannot measure it how can you manage it? I will be doing this on my rebuilt Mi16 that's for sure! Does not cost much, approx 30 dollars. Cheap insurance.
 
Hi.

I dissagree about the water condensation etc building up.

In post #5 the OP said "the car only does highway miles, no short trips or city driving"

Therefore the engine is running at full operating temperature, and any water condensation (and other volatiles) in the engine will be evaporated and purged via the crankcase ventilation system.

Cheers.
Yeah, but the car has done 4,000 in one year?
 
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