Many Fault Code for 2008, MY 2018 1.2Lt
- Thread starter Whippet
- Start date
Pardon my French (but you know what to do) but this French forum has a member with a problem like yours with a P208, and a replay like dmccurtayne's.
forum-auto.caradisiac.com
Also this
www.largus.fr
208 : Problème : Pression huile moteur insuffisante. - Peugeot - Mécanique / Électronique - Forum Technique
Type de problème / symptômes Bonjour, Je dispose dune 208 achetée neuve en 2014 / 51.000 km / Essence 1.2L VTI. Actuellement jai le message p...
forum-auto.caradisiac.com
Also this
1-2-puretech-pompe-huile.jpg
La crépine de la pompe à huile peut aussi se retrouver bouchée par les débris de courroie, nécessitant un nettoyage ou un remplacement.
You don't want to keep driving it with a randomly appearing oil pressure fault. The belt has a 90K/6 year belt change interval (tensioner and roller at 180K) and you are not due for that yet, so there is a problem to be investigated irrespective of who does it. You can quite easily check for any debris at the two timing electrovalves and even the vacuum pump oil feed, but you may not find anything. A check of the oil pickup requires the lower sump to be removed and the oil control solenoid would take a while to get at to check there. If you are going to do this yourself, you'd be looking at removing the plastic oil separator unit on the head to get a better view of the belt condition and dropping the lower sump. It is sensible to remove a blocked pickup gauze on any engine to clean both sides. However, if you pull it apart yourself and clear the faults, you make it very hard for a dealer to pursue a warranty claim should that become relevant.
Hi David S.
Your response pretty much summarises my current thoughts.
My proposed action plan - This Thursday.
Contact *local dealer and ask for their comments re low oil pressure fault alarm. Try to rule out if there is any potential for any warranty claims, my feeling at this stage is that there is low probability for any warranty. This will very likely involve me paying the dealer to inspect the vehicle.
Ask for a quotation for whatever action the dealer proposes to resolve the issue(s). Concurrently also obtain quotation for supply of parts only.
Consider the cost benefit of the dealer performing the proposed work compared to performing the work myself, if no warranty involved then not a lot to be gained for dealer to perform the work, except I don't have the cam timing tools, if a belt replacement is required.
I've already obtained from Peugeot the cost of a cam drive/timing belt kit including the tensioner and idler pulley (for the orange dipstick engine) is $239 and they are in stock in Sydney. (Yellow dipstick engine is $340)
Also consider the $450 cost for a new DIN65LH AGM battery, as it seems that is approaching/reached end of service life.
I will let you all know the outcome, when that is decided.
Thanks all for your interest and input.
Cheers.
PS: I did have a good theory, but Seasink shot it down in flames.
*Melbourne dealer from where the vehicle was purchase already suggests that they would want to inspect, but that is difficult to arrange as we are 120km away, and it is busy leading up to Christmas, and they are heavily booked.
Your response pretty much summarises my current thoughts.
My proposed action plan - This Thursday.
Contact *local dealer and ask for their comments re low oil pressure fault alarm. Try to rule out if there is any potential for any warranty claims, my feeling at this stage is that there is low probability for any warranty. This will very likely involve me paying the dealer to inspect the vehicle.
Ask for a quotation for whatever action the dealer proposes to resolve the issue(s). Concurrently also obtain quotation for supply of parts only.
Consider the cost benefit of the dealer performing the proposed work compared to performing the work myself, if no warranty involved then not a lot to be gained for dealer to perform the work, except I don't have the cam timing tools, if a belt replacement is required.
I've already obtained from Peugeot the cost of a cam drive/timing belt kit including the tensioner and idler pulley (for the orange dipstick engine) is $239 and they are in stock in Sydney. (Yellow dipstick engine is $340)
Also consider the $450 cost for a new DIN65LH AGM battery, as it seems that is approaching/reached end of service life.
I will let you all know the outcome, when that is decided.
Thanks all for your interest and input.
Cheers.
PS: I did have a good theory, but Seasink shot it down in flames.
*Melbourne dealer from where the vehicle was purchase already suggests that they would want to inspect, but that is difficult to arrange as we are 120km away, and it is busy leading up to Christmas, and they are heavily booked.
I always telephone an agricultural/farm supplier I drive past from time to time to quote expensive batteries. His prices for Century AGMs were better than the local suburban auto electricians and battery retailers. Worth a phone call to someone your way..
R&J Batteries in LaTrobe Street Ballarat have manufactured quality batteries for years.
Pardon my French (but you know what to do) but this French forum has a member with a problem like yours with a P208, and a replay like dmccurtayne's.
208 : Problème : Pression huile moteur insuffisante. - Peugeot - Mécanique / Électronique - Forum Technique
Type de problème / symptômes Bonjour, Je dispose dune 208 achetée neuve en 2014 / 51.000 km / Essence 1.2L VTI. Actuellement jai le message p...
Also this
1-2-puretech-pompe-huile.jpg
La crépine de la pompe à huile peut aussi se retrouver bouchée par les débris de courroie, nécessitant un nettoyage ou un remplacement.
Hi seasink.
This is a copy and paste from the translation of the last link. Interesting reading and expands my understanding of the recall. *Note: "distribution" refers to the camshaft drive belt.
Un giant reminder was launched in January 2021, for 220,000 vehicles manufactured between 2013 and 2017. But, contrary to what some owners think, it was only intended to correct the problems of brake assist and not those of *distribution. A technical note dating from July 2022 indicates that clogging of the vacuum pump can still occur on post-2017 models. In the event of loss of braking power or ignition of the engine oil pressure warning light, the workshops must carry out numerous checks. They check the condition of the vacuum pump oil filter, the oil pump strainer, the filters of the two variable distribution solenoid valves and the camshaft No. 4 bearings. Depending on the result of this examination, cleaning the strainer of the oil pump and the filters of the solenoid valves of the variable distribution will sometimes be sufficient. However, it will sometimes be necessary to replace the vacuum pump, the oil pump and its solenoid valve, the lower oil crankcase or the distribution belt. Or even the full engine in some cases.
According to the referenced article there are many latent problems to expect from the 1.2Lt PureTech engine including:
- Spark Plug electrode and insulator failures
- Excessive oil consumption do to failed PCV system regulation in the plastic cam cover.
- Camshafts drive belt that: grow wider, has a shorter service life than orignally planned
- Blocked oil pump pick up screen caused by degrading camshafts drive belt.
- External coolant leaks into the spark plug cavity due to porosities in the alloy head.
- In Euro 6.3 engines the Engine ECU fails and require updated software with associated low or high pressure fuel pump faults.
I'd think almost all engines here will have had the plugs changed in service by now to a revised plug less likely to crack the ceramic.
The engine cover doubles as PCV / oil separator and is really a throwaway item when it fails. You can't open it and the best you can expect is maybe to flush it out, although it has some fine passages and valves inside you can't get at.
The coolant leak at the plug hole would be an uncommon fault.
Like all direct injection engines, fouling of the head is also possible.
If you end up doing a timing belt job yourself, it's a shorter job if the cam pulleys are the type without a lip/rim as you can avoid removing the upper cylinder head, fuel pump, injectors and cam bolts. This is an aftermarket version:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/165583939115
Otherwise you need tools like this and have to dismantle rather more:
The engine cover doubles as PCV / oil separator and is really a throwaway item when it fails. You can't open it and the best you can expect is maybe to flush it out, although it has some fine passages and valves inside you can't get at.
The coolant leak at the plug hole would be an uncommon fault.
Like all direct injection engines, fouling of the head is also possible.
If you end up doing a timing belt job yourself, it's a shorter job if the cam pulleys are the type without a lip/rim as you can avoid removing the upper cylinder head, fuel pump, injectors and cam bolts. This is an aftermarket version:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/165583939115
Otherwise you need tools like this and have to dismantle rather more:
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Rappel, = reminder is an interesting way for makers to describe it isn't it? Distribution means valve timing hence it is used in connection with the timing belt.
I'm glad you found the article, as I only linked the pump part. L'argus can be very critical, sometimes excessively.
Peugeot has French rappels at https://www.peugeot.fr/tools/campagnes-de-rappel.html
I'm glad you found the article, as I only linked the pump part. L'argus can be very critical, sometimes excessively.
Peugeot has French rappels at https://www.peugeot.fr/tools/campagnes-de-rappel.html
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Hi seasink.
Out of interest I entered my VIN and got this response: Your vehicle is not registered in this country, please contact your authorized repairer. I already know it is not covered in the Australian recall.
Hi David.
As you know I have previously posted that I had a spark plug fail in Mrs Whippets car #39 here: https://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/i...t-2008-1-2lt-ownership-feedback.134842/page-2
Out of interest, who manufactures the revised spark plug, and/or, how are these identified?
Thanks for the links to the camshaft locking tools. About AU$200 landed for the first kit and AU$100 for the second kit. There are many good videos on YouTube to overview the process, like this one:
I might have to hire a car for a few weeks, as we have a significant family event occurring next week, that is leaving a big hole in my pocket, and Mrs Whippet still needs a conveyance. I will be in a better situation after Christmas to determine my course of action.
Cheers.
if you haven’t had the timing belt replaced yet, this sounds suspiciously like it. Mine had it also (it’s also 2017 and had done about 75K. The belt starts to disintegrate after a time, and the particles clog the filte, reducing oil pressure at times. It is a service centre task, not a home repair. The sight will, I expect, keep turning up until the belt is replaced, and the internal filter and engine flushed. That’s what they did with mine. Your belt has lasted (if that’s the word) 6 years, which is the expected replacement time. If you’ve had it serviced by Peugeot at correct time intervals, they may come at a no-cost to you replacement. Didn’t for me - my own fault, though. In mid 2017 the third version of the drive belt turned up, from memory, which was meant to solve this particular and serious problem. See a dealership as soon as possible.
If you haven’t been using the exact brand and viscosity range of oil (Total) and correct time intervals, Peugeot Australia and Peugeot (world) won’t come to the party - but the belt is absolutely due for replacement. Presumably the sign comes and goes because the particles move on the filter gauze. BTW the deterioration will be most pronounced on the internal side of the belt - not the side you can see through the oil filler.
Hi BarryC
Dealer is not much interested, looking at my options now.
I'm not convinced that using Penrite over Total oil would have made any difference to the deteriation of the camshaft timing belt. The newer belt specification will hopefully resolve the fault into the future.
Cheers.
No you are not interested in going to the dealer you ignore advice and go into a spiral of ifs and or buts.
Why ask a question.
If it’s been serviced on time with the correct parts and an engine fails within about 8 to 10 years they must by law help you but if you are unwilling or won’t take the vehicle to them it’s on you.
This Aussie frogs is becoming a joke.
Hi dmccurtayne.
I visited our local dealer. I told them the vehicle had the P15A1 fault code, I also mentioned that similar vehicles had been part of a recall programme. They confirmed the vehicle warranty on our 2008 has expired earlier this year, and also it is not part of any recall, so no warranty of any sort for the failing camshaft drive belt. I thought they might have said something along these lines: There has been an ongoing issue with the cam drive belt, your vehicle is not part of the recall, so here is a competative quote to fit a new one. But they didn't.
So I asked the dealer service for a price to supply and fit a cam belt to my vehicle, I was told: “it’ll be a couple of grand mate”. Plus they also wanted the vehicle to do a diagnosis $150/Hr, fair enough, they need to confirm the cause of the fault code for themselves. So I pay the labour for the dealer diagnosis and what new information will they tell me? Based on what I have found on this thread and other searching and my code read, I suspect nothing. It's pretty obvious now that the camshaft drive belt is causing the issue and as soon as the sump has been removed that can be confirmed.
I have responded to every question you have raised in this thread, and prior threads. As previously mentioned the vehicle has been serviced in accord with the manufacturers schedule, but not at a dealer with Total oil. Do I think this has caused the camshaft timing belt to fail, well based on the vehicle use mentioned previously, and the history of this engine, no I don't. I do appreciate your comments, but I am not going to blindly trust the dealer, and let them charge me what they want, without informing myself of the cause and options and typical repair costs. Your and others input and this site has been useful for that purpose.
As I said yesterday I am looking at my options from other auto repairers, now that any warranty has been ruled out. Costs for different options:
- Dealer - $2,000 – 8 week lead time
- Reputable auto repairer - $1,350 – 4 week lead time
- Myself - $100 cam timing tools, $250 belt kit and sealer, $100 oil & filter = $450
dmccurtayne you may very well be correct about the fit for purpose claim, and if as you say that by law the dealer should help me, then they may offer a reduced invoice, I don't know, but I will be paying something and that may be similar to the $450 if I do the job myself. Any pursuit of this would be via VCAT in Victoria, or the ACCC Australian Consumer Law federally. Considering the fees and the 32 - 44 week lead time for a mediation and hearing, I would just prefer to fix the vehicle for $450 and get on with life.
Thanks all for your input.
Cheers.
Did you ever change the cambelt. I'm interested for hear about what you found!
Hi Shane. Not as yet. But I have done some faultfinding.
The low oil pressure light has not displayed since early December.
Recently I removed the easy to access exhaust camshaft phaser solenoid, and there was no foreign matter present. So this proves that any liberated cam shaft drive belt particles have not got downstream past the oil filter element or bypass valve and reached this component.
I then removed the oil filter and inspected the paper pleats for any foreign matter. I used a clean paintbrush and petrol to wash between the pleats onto white A4 copy paper. I did not find a single particle of foreign matter. I would have thought that any smaller particles of liberated cambelt particles that had passed the oil pump inlet strainer gauze might be caught in the oil filter, as it has been in use for approximately 12,000km; as has the engine oil.
So I drained the engine oil into a clean container and tipped it back into the engine via four layers of muslin fabric. When the oil had been absorbed by clean A4 paper I could not find any liberated cambelt particles in the top layer of the muslin. Does this prove that there are no particles in the engine oil or clogging the oil pump inlet gauze, no it doesn’t. But I was anticipating finding at least a few particles in the oil filter element and crankcase oil but I didn't. Because I have nothing to compare this finding against, I don’t know what is reasonable to expect in this circumstance.
I will need to purchase some sealer, so that I can remove the sump to inspect the oil pump filter gauze.
I would like to “T” in a known accurate pressure gauge in parallel to the oil pressure sensor port and compare the gauge reading to the live EBD2 data stream from the sensor. But I don’t have the equipment at hand to perform this test.
Cheers.
Note: the dark areas and "particles" are just engine oil in the fabric gauze, there are not particles in the muslin.
The low oil pressure light has not displayed since early December.
Recently I removed the easy to access exhaust camshaft phaser solenoid, and there was no foreign matter present. So this proves that any liberated cam shaft drive belt particles have not got downstream past the oil filter element or bypass valve and reached this component.
I then removed the oil filter and inspected the paper pleats for any foreign matter. I used a clean paintbrush and petrol to wash between the pleats onto white A4 copy paper. I did not find a single particle of foreign matter. I would have thought that any smaller particles of liberated cambelt particles that had passed the oil pump inlet strainer gauze might be caught in the oil filter, as it has been in use for approximately 12,000km; as has the engine oil.
So I drained the engine oil into a clean container and tipped it back into the engine via four layers of muslin fabric. When the oil had been absorbed by clean A4 paper I could not find any liberated cambelt particles in the top layer of the muslin. Does this prove that there are no particles in the engine oil or clogging the oil pump inlet gauze, no it doesn’t. But I was anticipating finding at least a few particles in the oil filter element and crankcase oil but I didn't. Because I have nothing to compare this finding against, I don’t know what is reasonable to expect in this circumstance.
I will need to purchase some sealer, so that I can remove the sump to inspect the oil pump filter gauze.
I would like to “T” in a known accurate pressure gauge in parallel to the oil pressure sensor port and compare the gauge reading to the live EBD2 data stream from the sensor. But I don’t have the equipment at hand to perform this test.
Cheers.
Note: the dark areas and "particles" are just engine oil in the fabric gauze, there are not particles in the muslin.
That's is sounding hopeful. Is there signs of silicon around the motor anywhere? ie: has anyone had it apart in the past and "over siliconed" it on assembly (that stuff finds its way to the pump pickup as well). I don't have any oil pressure gauges here (short of one of those really cheap underdash gauge sets).
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