Hot 505

makes it a little hard to beat a WRX off the mark when you have 1/2 the traction of them as well
even though RWD pugs have good traction they are i'm afraid not as good as what the WRX has
to get really good traction in a straight line you need good wide rubber and damn stiff springs
in doing this though it stuffs up the handling of the pug
i found the rear ends like to be a little "loose" where as the front you can get away with a stiffer setup
whenever you see a RWD take off and the rear of the car sinks to the ground that is power bieng lost that could be going to the wheels
 
Dave,

Are you talking about the jaycar ignition kit based on the microchip pic microcontroller, as i was searching the web for a cheap ignition retard computer for my turbo 205 (Instead of the msd boost timing master, It's very cheap at around $70
dollars for the kit.
Though i cant complain about the msd as it is about 300 us dollars (But it is only a boost retard) :)
The jaycar kit does sound tempting though at only 7o dollars aus. :p
I might as well just go ahead fit a haltech e6k as i am loosing interest in trying to market a kit to the uk (But i know i can get the lu2 jetronic to work fine upto about 200-250hp in the 1.9 8v engine. eek! head_ban

Murat
 
Guys,

I was kidding about killing WRX's although I would like to....seems to me that they are mainly wankers that drive them....so it would be nice to kill them in an old 505 wink

Anyhow :D

Cheers

Ben mallet
 
Murat:
Dave,

Are you talking about the jaycar ignition kit based on the microchip pic microcontroller, as i was searching the web for a cheap ignition retard computer for my turbo 205 (Instead of the msd boost timing master, It's very cheap at around $70
dollars for the kit.
Though i cant complain about the msd as it is about 300 us dollars (But it is only a boost retard) :)
The jaycar kit does sound tempting though at only 7o dollars aus. :p
I might as well just go ahead fit a haltech e6k as i am loosing interest in trying to market a kit to the uk (But i know i can get the lu2 jetronic to work fine upto about 200-250hp in the 1.9 8v engine. eek! head_ban

Murat
Click to expand...
Murat,

Yeah that sounds like the one.

The kit number is KC5202, and you need to have their ignition kit (KC5030) or their Capacitor Discharge Ignition kit (KC5232) to use it. When I bought mine (about 4 years ago) they said they were discontinuing either this kit or the CDI kit, or both (I can't remember). Their kit numbers may have changed since then and they may have more advanced kits now.

You would need to make some changes for a boost retard function, but I don't think it would be difficult. The guy who designed the kit is named Tony Nixon. Apparently he used to have a website about it, but I can't find it.

Regards,
Dave
 
Murat, you can also buy just the ignition side of the Haltech E6K if you've got the fuel sorted. It's called an IG5. If you're interested, I can email you the full working software. It runs on DOS-Win98.
 
Dave,

I come across it somewhere while reading about the pic microcontrollers.
I think it was a link from one of the australian electronics sites (it had a picture of it with a single seven segment led display).

PeterT,

I was aware of the ignition only haltech from a long time ago (But thanks)
Peter my problem has always been to try and find a quality but cheap way of handling the fuel and ignition retard for the turbo setup.
(1) My initial thoughts were to use a avo turbo link a fully mappable ignition retard & can controll xtra 6 injectors as well.
(2)Then i decided on the msd boostmaster with a cartech rising rate fuel pressure reg (incorporating series2 injectors with a little higher fuel pressure)
(3)Now i feel like using a e6k as i beleive it is the best computer under $2000

option (1) is worth around $1000-1200
option (2) $400 us
option (3) $2000 with dyno time

I already have installed the series2 injectors
I tried to post about the questions regarding some of you had with the different injectors peugeot use but i could not get into the topic(I will start a new topic on the part numbers and flow rates).

Murat
 
Murat,
why not keep your eye out for a 2nd hand unit. An E6, E6A or E6K will all do want you want. You can buy a semi-finished 4 cyl. loom from Haltech for <$200. It has all the connectors, relays and wires, but nothing is assembled or terminated.
 
Murat,
a search on Trading Post, revealed an E6GM for $600 at Kogarah. This has a GM connection, but is otherwise identical to an E6A. With a little ginning around you could easily adapt it to a new harness.
 
PeterT,

It's all to very tempting but i hate buying second hand electronic equipment (It sounds like a nice price)
In the end the only thing that stops me is the epa law (I might have to work around the lu2 jetronic system)
I will start work on a rwd carbi car next and then i can ditch the carbi and finnally setup a nice programmable management system (I can't wait to work on a car with room again as i have had a hard time at times with the 205) :(
I pick up my manifold today (It is being machined)
All i need to do is install a boost guage and go for my first spin maybe tonight or in the next couple of days :p
I think the jetronic will be fine as it is not going to be a high horsepower car (It doesent need to be)with around 170hp to start with then eventually 220hp and 850kg it's more than enough for a fwd :)

Take it easy
Murat
 
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