Now it needs a long distance run to sort it out!
Camperdown sounds good!!!!!!
Camperdown sounds good!!!!!!
Finally ... Repairing a traction gearbox.
- Thread starter DoubleChevron
- Start date
It needs a huge amount of work before I'd drive it further than around town.
I can't seem to tighten the slop out of the balljoint without a tool. Is there anything special we need to use here? I was just going to weld this peice of tool steel to an old socket. It will probably jump out of the slot without some sort of clamp bearing down on it though
I can't seem to tighten the slop out of the balljoint without a tool. Is there anything special we need to use here? I was just going to weld this peice of tool steel to an old socket. It will probably jump out of the slot without some sort of clamp bearing down on it though
The joint has a spacer ring between the upper and lower cups. To remove slop in the joint you can remove the spacer and then carefully adjust until the point where the joint just binds and then back off the ring by a 1/4 turn and then lock up the large nut to prevent further turning of the adjuster.
It is how ever preferable to remove the complete ball joint and lap the spacer down until there is zero play between the cups and the ball. Then refit the ball joint assembly and adjust as indicated before.
That tool will work if gripped by a shifter. I just use an old large bastard file as a lever. The side of the file fits into the notches the same way as your piece of metal!
It is how ever preferable to remove the complete ball joint and lap the spacer down until there is zero play between the cups and the ball. Then refit the ball joint assembly and adjust as indicated before.
That tool will work if gripped by a shifter. I just use an old large bastard file as a lever. The side of the file fits into the notches the same way as your piece of metal!
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That is a very strange end cap on the steering rack. It looks as though someone broke it and then made a new end for it!
Hi Shane
Gerry wrote while I was typing. WOT he said.
There is a spacer around the ball so the adjustment does up tight with no movement. If this is still in there that is why you cannot screw the cap down. So remove the cap and see if it still there before you stuff the thing
The correct method is to grind the spacer down till there is little clearance and then lock the cap down on it. The easy way is to just throw the spacer and adjust the cap till it takes the play out ! Your choice !
Jaahn
Gerry wrote while I was typing. WOT he said.
There is a spacer around the ball so the adjustment does up tight with no movement. If this is still in there that is why you cannot screw the cap down. So remove the cap and see if it still there before you stuff the thing
The correct method is to grind the spacer down till there is little clearance and then lock the cap down on it. The easy way is to just throw the spacer and adjust the cap till it takes the play out ! Your choice !
Jaahn
Grinding the lantern rings is the way forward but as they reduce down you effectively lose the 'roundness' of the two bearing halves and this can create a certain lumpy feel in the steering! Pack with grease of course!
Well this sounds easy enough .... I might as well fix up the ball joint while I'm here (apparently my father could never get the lower ones apart .... so I'm guessing there good 
)
.... I might as well fix up the ball joint while I'm here (apparently my father could never get the lower ones apart .... so I'm guessing there good )
I would not count on the lower joints being good. I do however have all the necessary tools to dismantle them as well as the uppers. They may be salvageable.
Thanks Gerry,
my father purchased another set of lower arms as he couldn't get these ones apart. So either way, I shouldn't be stuck with these. I reckon all the bushing will need replacing at some point too (the huge bushes the front subframe mount on look aged cracked fro example).
Those are the spacers there that must be run down by the looks of it (next to the ball joint top nuts). I foudn two of the missing bell housing nuts in the grease in the back side of the ball joint nut!
None of this stuff is urgent .... given the milage the car will do ... anytime in the next decade or three will do
No, those rings are the upper cups of the ball joint. The spacer rings are thinner but about the same diameter. They have grease passage holes at four points around the diameter and do not contact the ball itself! They sit between the upper and lower cups. They can be hooked out with a piece of wire if they have not been removed already.
I was just going to tighten the hub nuts up and assemble the ball joints for now (so I could move the car around ... drain the fuel tank ... all that exciting sort of stuff).
Everything on this car is so obvious if its "not right". Look where the hole for the split pin is versus the nut. Either there should be a spacer behind the nut .... or behind the drum.
I've got to be missing 425948 .... I'll find out later. Its a pitty I just torqued that bloody thing down to "as tight as I can get it". It'll be a lot of fun to get that damn drum back off!
I think my father has a box of driveshaft bits "somewhere"... so I'm guessing we'll have any missing bits ........ if I can find them
Everything on this car is so obvious if its "not right". Look where the hole for the split pin is versus the nut. Either there should be a spacer behind the nut .... or behind the drum.
I've got to be missing 425948 .... I'll find out later. Its a pitty I just torqued that bloody thing down to "as tight as I can get it". It'll be a lot of fun to get that damn drum back off!
I think my father has a box of driveshaft bits "somewhere"... so I'm guessing we'll have any missing bits ........ if I can find them
actually ... now I think about it ... no. Its got to be the taper is pulling through from a worn driveshaft taper..... hmmmm
425948 is the outer oil seal.I was just going to tighten the hub nuts up and assemble the ball joints for now (so I could move the car around ... drain the fuel tank ... all that exciting sort of stuff).
View attachment 126052
Everything on this car is so obvious if its "not right". Look where the hole for the split pin is versus the nut. Either there should be a spacer behind the nut .... or behind the drum.
View attachment 126053
I've got to be missing 425948 .... I'll find out later. Its a pitty I just torqued that bloody thing down to "as tight as I can get it". It'll be a lot of fun to get that damn drum back off!
I think my father has a box of driveshaft bits "somewhere"... so I'm guessing we'll have any missing bits ........ if I can find them
Correct! There are too many threads showing. Also the split pin hole is visible even though it is partially covered by the nut.
Your stub axle and your drum tapers may also be suspect.
Also check the drums for run out!
When you remove the stub axle nut the taper of the stub should not protrude past the hub.
Finally... I got around to temporarily re-assembling the front end of the traction.
I didn't own a single hex 26mm socket. I needed to grind about 1mm from the end of it so it would sit flush on the very narrow top ball joint nut (there was next to no contact area until I did this).
I tried to show my father how easily it started and ran earlier this week..... and it wouldn't start. There was petrol at the carby and the accelerator pump was spraying. Get this ..... It wont start on the petrol in the tank as its not flammable enough (but it will run on it once started). Now that I can finally move it, I'll put it up onto the ramps and drain and chekc the fuel tank (and all the lines running forward.... we don't need a nice toasty bonfire due to 70years old fuel lines!).
I didn't own a single hex 26mm socket. I needed to grind about 1mm from the end of it so it would sit flush on the very narrow top ball joint nut (there was next to no contact area until I did this).
I tried to show my father how easily it started and ran earlier this week..... and it wouldn't start. There was petrol at the carby and the accelerator pump was spraying. Get this ..... It wont start on the petrol in the tank as its not flammable enough (but it will run on it once started). Now that I can finally move it, I'll put it up onto the ramps and drain and chekc the fuel tank (and all the lines running forward.... we don't need a nice toasty bonfire due to 70years old fuel lines!).
Shane, please don't use that stale fuel in any mower, even a two stroke , especially a Victa with the plastic carburettor. It can dissolve or make plastic parts & seals either dissolve or go like chewing gum. Can kill garden weeds though !!!The petrol makes me feel sick and makes my eyes sting just being near it! Its the sort of fuel I don't mind using in a 2stroke mower
Perfect for starting bonfires! You can kill old Victas? This one has cracked rotten old Orings throgh the carby (and probably motor) .... and randomly wants to over-rev likes its its governor doesn't want to work. Other than that .... now matter how long its been since its been used, or how bad the petrol is .... a good 20pumps on the primer bulb and its away
Fuel line should be metal all the way through, with the exception of a rubber hose to join the wheel arch pipe to the main underfloor pipe. I like your upper ball joint adjusting tool!