Finally ... Repairing a traction gearbox.

gerrypro said:
The only flexible lines ( hoses) are the ones shown in the above pictures and the ones to the front brake cylinders. Slough cars have three flexible brake hoses and Paris cars have four. All other lines are solid fixed lines originally sheathed with a wound steel wire, encasing the outer of the pipe. They are not designed to flex! In my installation above I elected not to renew the wound wire casing.
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Well that explains the confusion on my part :) Artificer has a slough car. This one is french built ( squiggly door handles, metal dash, painted grill). My father found it in one of the old CCOCA magazines back in the 70's. It sounds like its been off the road for at least 40years. The listed owner was the father of the person it was purchased from. Apparently these were delivered in undercoat to Australia and this one was painted a chrysler red on arrival.

If I stick my head up under the dash, you can see the vent assembly is there ..... Yet it has been filled over. I'm betting that is why the battery tray and floors aren't rusty. I wonder if leading this vent panel shut was a dealer thing when the cars were new (I'm assuming its leaded shut as its not ghosting through the paintwork like it would if it was covered in any sort of filler).

The car also has the sunroof frame fitted under the roof lining. Its interesting the way they built cars way back then.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
That is not a sunroof frame. The original cars back in 34/35 had a wooden frame instead of the single steel panel of the later cars. They were originally covered in padding and 'Moleskin'. Those from Slough that were fitted with a sunroof had the drain pan and sliding mechanism fitted into this remnant frame for the original wooden roof. My father's first Citroen, a 1938 registered 11CL2 ( probably built in 1937 ) had a sunroof and the wooden and fabric roof. It leaked and he skinned it over with a sheet of steel screwed down around the edges.
I have never heard of the scuttle vent being sealed over by the dealers. It was more likely done later in life when the rubber seal deteriorated and caused it to leak! I had to do quite an amount of seal channel fabrication of this area to renovate mine. It obviously had been leaking for a long time and yet the battery box was unaffected and only required cleaning and painting. The main cause of rot in this area is sulphating battery posts.
 
Sorry if I hijack your thread for a minute, Shane, but I made the decision to go through the gearbox on my 11BL and I am glad I did. The first thing I noticed is that I can move this nut with my fingers, which means the CWP depth is no longer being held constant by the pinion shaft retaining nut. Gerry, of course, predicted this would be the case.
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Wow ... loose. This thread is a mess of me going around in circles messing everything up :ROFLMAO: The guide posted early on in the thread is probably the best help!
 
Yes, that is how one usually finds them after many many miles!
Of course you will throw that multi tab washer away when you redo the box, won't you?
 
gerrypro said:
Yes, that is how one usually finds them after many many miles!
Of course you will throw that multi tab washer away when you redo the box, won't you?
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The traction gearbox here is very quiet and smooth after all of Gerrys suggestions (well except for reverse .... that whines a lot :) ). The gearshift is very smooth and direct. There is no springs on the gearstick lever behind the dash .... so it wouldn't feel right to anyone that has driven other tractions (to me if feels fine though :ROFLMAO: ). I'll get to it ........ Oneday :clown:
 
Shane,

Looking back at your reamer setup from September 11, it looks like you have the gear in the lathe chuck but the reamer is just centered with your live center. What stops the reamer from spinning? Were you just turning the reamer by hand and using the live center to advance or were you actually using the lathe to spin the gear? Anticipating having to do something like this soon.....
 
citroenthusiast said:
Shane,

Looking back at your reamer setup from September 11, it looks like you have the gear in the lathe chuck but the reamer is just centered with your live center. What stops the reamer from spinning? Were you just turning the reamer by hand and using the live center to advance or were you actually using the lathe to spin the gear? Anticipating having to do something like this soon.....
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Hi John,

I didn't use the lathe at all. I just had the chuck locked and used the lathe to held the reamer centered while I turned the reamer with a spanner. It's probably not required (I've never used a reamer before, so i wasn't sure how centered I'd have to keep it).
 
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