EP80 transaxle oil

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4cvg

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Apart from the very costly Castrol Classic oil from the very helpful guy in WA, does anyone know of another locally available maker of EP80. (Don't mention Penrite & don't mention Castrol FMX80 - reasons on request.)

cheers! Peter
 
Peter,
The only one I know supplied by retailers is Castrol EPX80-90. I use it on all the trans-axles. Even smells like the original Renault/Elf supplied......

Try Fuchs, they told me they had it, but only in 20Lt.

Ray
 
Its the syncro rings that are sensative to additives in 80 - 90 gearbox oils. Castrol VMX 80 works fine all the time and for many years for all my trans axles from Dauphine boxes through to the R17 TS's. Cannot remember what the problem is but there has been a heap of stuff on here in previous threads.
 
Sunroof said:
Its the syncro rings that are sensative to additives in 80 - 90 gearbox oils. Castrol VMX 80 works fine all the time and for many years for all my trans axles from Dauphine boxes through to the R17 TS's. Cannot remember what the problem is but there has been a heap of stuff on here in previous threads.
Click to expand...

The by far largest problem was sulphur and other EP products that had a habit of "eating" that is corrosive to sensitive bronze bushing In the differentials and gearboxes. Tis easy to see if that is a problem with your bearings, as when you inspect or change oil, it has a golden bronze hue to it.

Somewhere I have a paper trail of information (pre computer internet popularity) that I researched for the Austin Seven Club when the restoration group was concerned at overseas reports hi lighting the problem. There were at that time a few oils that would deal with extreme pressure environments (Valmega for one) without corroding sensitive bronze bearings etc.

My guess is that there would be similar non-corroding oils around if you need them.

Ken
 
Peter,
In the R10, I have been using EPX80-90. Fuchs specifies "Titan Gear MP80" for R8/R10 and 4 liter quantities seem to be available here

Jan
 
Thanks guys.

Curious that Castrol recommend VMX 80 for R10 transaxles.

I use Fuchs Formula 60 in all my engines & shall have a conversation with them but it sounds like the Castrol EPX 80/90 is the likely candidate.

I hope that the Castrol Classic EP80 suits as, in desperation, I've ordered some already. (In a quick blat to Hobart & back in the Djet recently, the VMX80-fed transaxle sounded disturbingly "dry-like" at speed & I want it drained ASAP.)

cheers! Peter
 
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Sunroof said:
Its the syncro rings that are sensative to additives in 80 - 90 gearbox oils. Castrol VMX 80 works fine all the time and for many years for all my trans axles from Dauphine boxes through to the R17 TS's. Cannot remember what the problem is but there has been a heap of stuff on here in previous threads.
Click to expand...

I use Castrol VMX 80 as well, this is also what Castrol recommend for Renault transaxles from 1955 to 1980.
 
Hi,
I have no personal opinion on the matter, but my understanding of it is that GL5 spec oils are to be avoided due to this alleged brass corrosion issue. No idea whether that is actually a problem - I've seen plenty of discussion about how it might be, but never anyone actually saying they had a problem. Anyway, that would rule out the EPX80-90 oil. The VMX80, however is GL4 which is apparently the one your after. Or Redline MT90, but that costs about $30/l even in a "1 US gallon" bottle.

I think Castrol FMX is a motor oil, and the poster may be confusing that with VMX80. If the implication is that you don't want to use Penrite OR Castrol, that is making it a bit hard for yourself! But you can go with Redline, and Supercheap sell that.
 
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I'm happily using a bright blue Redline synthetic oil, following Alan Moore's good experience. I've lost track of what oils I've used over the years, starting with Castrol Hypoy B90 in the 4CV and Castrol EP80 in the R8, back in the 1960s-70s. Sunroof is right that there are discussions somewhere back there, to do with multigrade oils eating synchromeshes. Happily I've never had that problem.

Given infrequent changes (years....) and the cost/pain of repairs I don't think the oil cost matters a hoot.
 
As John has stated, I use Redline Lightweight Shockproof in many of my gearboxes and transaxles, and in particular in my track driven BMW 2002 it reduced the gearbox temp by 30 degrees C, suggesting a reduction in friction. In a friends GTA turbo Alpine the synchros became so much better after changing to this oil. No I don’t think it will fix broken gearboxes, but I will keep using the “Smurf blood”. Approx $110 for 4 quarts online.
 
G'day,

the old Fug had multigrade oil in it here, and the synchro was painful... :(

After reading about the single weight 80 vs the 80-90 I swapped oils and the difference was remarkable, nice smooth changes, you wouldn't credit just a simple oil change would make that much difference. Getting really brave I added a small tube of Nulon G70, even better still.... :)

Way to go.... :approve:

cheers,
Bob
 
alan moore said:
As John has stated, I use Redline Lightweight Shockproof in many of my gearboxes and transaxles, and in particular in my track driven BMW 2002 it reduced the gearbox temp by 30 degrees C, suggesting a reduction in friction. In a friends GTA turbo Alpine the synchros became so much better after changing to this oil. No I don’t think it will fix broken gearboxes, but I will keep using the “Smurf blood”. Approx $110 for 4 quarts online.
Click to expand...

Hi Alan

Thats a fairly large performance increase by doing something so simple as changing brand of oil. I would guess that the performance change would be measurable on a dyno.

When I use to ride motorbikes I change to a Shell oil for the gearbox (can't remember what it was exactly now) but noticed a big improvement in gear changes, they went from clunky to slick and smooth.
 
I didn’t do a before and after on the dyno, on just the gearbox and diff oil change. I did this with a cam, head mods, longer trumpets, and different injectors and went from 150hp at 7400, to 165 at 6700 out of a 2 valve 2L M10. I certainly couldn’t say the oil added to the power, but it is doubtful it hurt.
 
Had to see if I found some local dealers for the Redline Shockproof oil. But they claimed this oil is not recommended for synchronized gearboxes? Nothing to worry about?

How much oil do a 330 box need?
 
I'll bow to Alan's experience regarding synchromesh, but it's been fine in my 330 for several years and probably 15,000 km. He'd be way ahead in experience and some under more strenuous driving.

If I recall, it is 1.75 litres for the 330 box - do you have a manual? With the car level, add oil to the filler plug until it overflows.
 
Yes, got the impression that he was happy with this oil, so I believe I am going for this advice.

I have a combined R8/R10 manual. That says 1.6l for R8 and 1.9 for R10 :p
 
Early R8s didn't have the 330 transaxle but a gearbox very similar to a Dauphine Gordini, that is with a single housing not the split casing of the 330. That might explain the two volumes.

Interesting comment re synchromesh - I must go online and have a look again.

Cheers
 
Ah, then I see. It was some illustrations in the manual of a box they called 318. The volume must be for that one then.
 
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