Citroen C4 AL4 transmission problem

You get it hot, drain it and go away and have lunch. Come back, put 3.5 litres in (after refitting the plug!), drive it once around a regular sized city block without traffic holdups, going through all gears, then do the overflow test with the remaining 500ml if needed. I don't think the oil is the root of the OP's problem. More likely the multifunction switch or a bad pin in a socket.

The marking of the case re the electrovalves / solenoids related to the change from the original type with the white plastic connectors to the type with the black connector. In production, that change was made very early on, say about 2001/2, so no C4 would have had the early type electrovalves. You wouldn't expect to see any markings on the case to indicate that the car had had an electrovalve change.
 
Hi Martinln,
Just in case you have not seen this, here is a link to a guy who has posted some useful links to some AL4 stuff. His car is a Peugeot.
Note there are two variations on the level plug and tube. The second type has a solid plug and a plastic tube up inside with a hexagon hole to undo with an Allan key.
My Peugeot 206 XR: AL4 Transmission Oil Level Check
If you go to the bottom of the pages he has a list of other pages to look at. All good.
Jaahn
Note the oil check temperature is not really critical IMHO. Close enough is OK with this, +- a cup full. People have become paranoid because of the problems with this transmission. But that misses the real problems I think.

David, I do not believe that PSA actually stopped putting the old type valves in at the time you said. I have a friend with a 2007 Pug who is about to change his valves ! We will see what type they are when we get there. However there is some evidence a dealer has changed an old type for another old type in the past :(
 
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The marking of the case re the electrovalves / solenoids related to the change from the original type with the white plastic connectors to the type with the black connector. In production, that change was made very early on, say about 2001/2, so no C4 would have had the early type electrovalves. You wouldn't expect to see any markings on the case to indicate that the car had had an electrovalve change.[/QUOTE]


so this one come with new valves?

AL4/DP0 DPO Valvebody Assy(Genuine Transmission parts )2570E3-in Drive & Transmission from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
 
Why

Hi Martinln,
Why would you buy that ? It is probably geting to be as much as having a dealer do the normal job !

My rule in fixing any problem is "never start a repair until you know what the problem is". A fishing expedition only costs money.

More diagnoses on the reason why it goes OK when started in N and plays up when using P. The answer lies there probably.
Cheers jaahn :)
 
I've tried to explain this; it is a simple system once you see it laid open; an uninformed adjustment of the "roller blade" (sic) will cause the results found.
 
stlill waiting for the scanner..

addo said:
I've tried to explain this; it is a simple system once you see it laid open; an uninformed adjustment of the "roller blade" (sic) will cause the results found.
Click to expand...



No worry guys, I am still waiting for my scanner so I just look at all possibility in the mean time.


I know the valve body is quite dear at $500, but it's still cheaper than dearer which cost over $1000 just for the valve replacement ! as I found out it is quite easy to take out the valve body and swap it over, all I need to remove the air cleaner housing and I can see the pan right in front of me, I think 1-2 hours is all you need. software update is another issue though..

it would be better if I just change 2 valves but I don't want to take the risk.

I also found out there is NO oil near the bottom of the pan and gasket, it is completely dry. so I think the valve is original, was not replaced before, otherwise it must be wet. The back end near the firewall is however quite wet, any ideas?

When I tried to adjust the multi function switch by turning either way, it is very difficult to get a zero ohm reading. And the range is very narrow, as soon as I turn by just a little bit, it move out of zero straight away. is it suggest a faulty switch?

Is replacing the switch more difficult? as I can't see where the wire go, do I need to remove the battery?
 
jaahn said:
Hi Martinln,
Why would you buy that ? It is probably geting to be as much as having a dealer do the normal job !

My rule in fixing any problem is "never start a repair until you know what the problem is". A fishing expedition only costs money.

More diagnoses on the reason why it goes OK when started in N and plays up when using P. The answer lies there probably.
Cheers jaahn :)
Click to expand...


No, I am not going to change the valves, I am just looking at all possibility.
 
The switch adjustment is a very small range. That as you describe, sounds normal.

I am not convinced anything needs replacing, it simply needs correct adjustment.
 
martinln said:
Hi everyone, I have recently bought a 2007 Auto C4 2.0 petrol with only 70,000km on the clock.
however, after 1 month of ownership, the trouble already started.
I can only drive in auto mode, the manual mode is no longer work, and the display on the console no longer show the gear position, only '--'!
when I use ELM327 with torque App to scan the car, it show error code 'U0404' and 'P0607', transmission range error.
Does anyone has similar problem, pls help... :cry:
Click to expand...

"I can only drive in auto mode",
By that if you mean the box is not in limp home mode eg locked in default 3gear, and the box changes correctly and does as it should in "D" then your manual shift fault is external. The fact that the indicator shows nothing in manual mode is another indication that there is an external electrical problem. I presume the gear lever position indicator light works in auto mode eg: P-R-N-D. does it not?.
Ok now the multifunction switch has nothing to do with gear changes, it's only function is to allow the starter to be used in "P or N" and refuses that operation in any other gear. It makes the connection for the reverse light and turns on the gear lever position indicator light in "D" mode. It does not prevent gear changes, nor does it operate the manual mode indicator lights.
The gear lever cable has nothing to do with gear changes. It's only function is to position the internal "spool valve" according to which position the lever has been placed, again "P-R-N-D" only. The cable does not move in Manual Gear Selection mode.
Accordingly this internal "spool valve" has 4 positions, P-R-N-D- it does not move to another setting unless the gear lever is moved in D only. In sequential shift, the gear selected indicator will only light 1-2-3-4, there is no N or P because the spool valve has not moved.
In manual mode the electro valves of the control valve assy are operated by the transmission ECU to complete a shift after receiving a gear lever request. The Converter lock continues to be auto in all modes. So after all that, I still reckon your fault is external, electrical.
Cheers.
 
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I should clarify that in manual mode, the shift function is not working but it still acts like 'AUTO' mode, strange.

it is not locked in 3rd gear as I can see the rpm go up and down as I drive along, but it is very sluggish..
 
martinln said:
I should clarify that in manual mode, the shift function is not working but it still acts like 'AUTO' mode, strange.

it is not locked in 3rd gear as I can see the rpm go up and down as I drive along, but it is very sluggish..
Click to expand...

Sounds like the lever is possibly not going all the way over to sequential shift. I suppose there's no chance of something being dropped down alongside the lever, or maybe come adrift from the trim down there?.
 
LOL, no. It's just black humour resulting from knowing a couple of pushy Russian women.
 
shanadoo said:
Sounds like the lever is possibly not going all the way over to sequential shift. I suppose there's no chance of something being dropped down alongside the lever, or maybe come adrift from the trim down there?.
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Having afterthoughts, no power, no sequential shift, no kick down, sounds like it's in default mode. Does the car struggle to take off, especially so on any sort of a hill?. Can you hear or feel the box changing gears?. Does the engine labor at very slow speeds. The revs will vary 200 or so as the converter clutch engages or not.
Worst case scenario in your case, the E2 clutch has burnt out causing slipping.
In default mode, "3rd gear", there are two clutches working E1 and E2. E2 is the bad one, when this is burnt the box will still drive in default but will slip badly on hills.
Gear changes are not possible, but the converter lock up still engages as required. No shift electro valves are in operation whilst in default mode.
I would drive the car and diagnose the condition properly, that would be a good way to start, before spending big dollars on a what if and maybe.
 
martinln said:
I should clarify that in manual mode, the shift function is not working but it still acts like 'AUTO' mode, strange.

it is not locked in 3rd gear as I can see the rpm go up and down as I drive along, but it is very sluggish..
Click to expand...

Hi martinln,
It sounds like it is in limp mode. I have experienced this many times till I fixed mine. You might think it is changing gears but it is either slipping or locking up as it tries to do its best in third gear. Sluggish because it is only in third. As Shanadoo says try it on an uphill start ! That will test it out, as if it is only in third it will struggle, OK if it starts in first. Not too steep a hill or it will not start up it !!!!

Note that the default mode has more than one set of paramenters depending on how the computer see the fault. It has several to use that behave a bit differently. It will select one after it starts and then detects a fault. So it might be a bit different behaviour sometimes.

Get the lexia onto it and look at the real time readout. That will tell you what gear, what mode, what pressures etc is actually selected. However the learning curve to use it mav be steep. :) It is sh*t software. Do not just rely on the fault codes as they may be difficult to understand.
good luck jaahn
 
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Martin,

tom Dolan has always been my repair man 97211899. His is mobile thesedays and comes to you.

He he would have seen hundreds by now and would know them well.

Sydney based.

I have had AL4 on Xantia, c4 auto 2.0 and c5 sx. Hated the gearbox on all of these cars but always changed fluid regularly and never had one fail. Had valves done on Xantia prior to purchase. Chris M
 
This sounds a lot like a similar problem I had with my 407 fitted with an AM6 box. I had "P R N D" showing on the intrument panel, the gearbox performed flawlessly in auto mode, but I had no manual shift function, no traction control and no cruise control. Occasionally everything came good and everything would work as it was meant to, eventually it went back to not working.

The dealer ran his gizmo tool over it and pronounced the gearbox ECU to be at fault, I disputed this as I told him of the time when it would work. Much more poking and prodding with another mechanic with his gizmo confirmed it was the control lever itself that was faulty "part number 2400X5", replaced that and all now works 100% of the time.
 
ok, it must be in limp mode unless there is another mode.:joker: Thanks for all the input.

I think the problem lay with the multi function switch or something electrical or gear lever,
 
oops, forgot to mention that in the above post that part 2400X5 is the box that the gear stick rows around and it was a sensor that had gone dud.
 
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