Car ID

Overfinch said:
The starter is acting up. Wind very slowly on ignition. It was taken off and apparently 'serviced', but the symptom persists. At times it just seizes altogether. The mechanics at times take to tapping it firmly with any tool at hand, and then it obliges...until the next seizure episode. Quite embarrassing when it stalls.

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I know this is stating the obvious but the battery is okay isn't it?
Try connecting a battery jumper lead from the battery positive to the king lead terminal on the starter.
If it then cranks normally then it's likely to be an issue with the king lead and/or the terminals.
If it still cranks slowly or not at all then it's an internal problem with the starter.
Bad/dirty/corroded internal connections, seized bearings, or worn bushes (or two or all of these).
If it's just been serviced (and they've done more than just spray painting the outside of the starter black), they've missed something.
 
Overfinch,
The solenoid contacts usually respond to the 'tapping' procedure. Dismantle and clean the contacts or replace if the unit is in poor condition.

I managed to get a Rolls Royce operating by using the 'tapping' method. The owner wanted to write to R.R. telling them of my method!
 
Wildebeest said:
Overfinch,
The solenoid contacts usually respond to the 'tapping' procedure. Dismantle and clean the contacts or replace if the unit is in poor condition.

I managed to get a Rolls Royce operating by using the 'tapping' method. The owner wanted to write to R.R. telling them of my method!
Click to expand...
You should have patented this method [emoji28] [emoji28] . I'll try to crank it using this method and see its the leads or terminals. Tapping is not a viable means of starting a car every morning so I'll whats what and get it sorted

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Yes, the tapping strategy is a short term solution, depending on how much you enjoy walking.
 
Here we go with updates. Carby photos as promised 1497100441253.jpg1497100450732.jpg1497100457866.jpg

Gentlemen, we have a new starter. 1497100520430.jpg1497100529703.jpg1497100536343.jpg

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Its a bit silent in here but here goes Long Post Alert). I've had a raft of issues with the pug since my last post. I had a huge rattling noose in the engine which the mechanics attributed to pushrods and sorted out. It's so quiet in comparison to before that I occasionally have to rev just to be sure the darned engine is running. The exhaust noise is also pristine. And the smoking has vanished! I actually get traces of water droplets when I cover the exhaust with the palm of my hand.
Last weekend, the electricals came to haunt me. I had just replaced the starter and all was well. I had no idea that my voltage regulator was shot and wasn't even the original car component. I was on a long drive when I discovered that my battery was boiling. Further along the drive, when I came to stop, the pug refused to restart (ignition switch shot). I managed to come for it the following evening and its currently under rigorous electrical repair. I also noticed a grinding noise from the front wheel. I found that my shock mounts were broken. I also suspect a cracked or non existent flector.
In other news, how does one go about cleaning the engine water jackets? Also after what distance does one need to service the gar box and the differential? Also, what components would inhibit steering wheel turning and vibration?

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Overfinch,
Oh dear.
The electrical matters best left to your electrical guy.

Grinding noise from front wheel? Could the upper strut bearing have collapsed, possibly during work on suspension.

A cracked flector, fortunately they are a 'fail safe' item. Inspect the flector while your able assistant turns the steering from side to side.

Cleaning water jackets? To do it properly will require complete dismantling of the engine but you don't want to know that.:eek:
Give the block a flush out with water via your garden hose. The radiator will possibly need professional treatment.


Stay with it Mate!
 
I'm with it. Believe me it isn't easy. Got to work yesterday with smoking tyres and discovered that my lack of power was seized callipers and front brake piston. Got these serviced yesterday and now everything is coming together. The power that this Pug generates from a 4 speed gear box is surprising

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Hello mates.. I think I'm married to this car. Its bleeding me dry. I try to find solace in the fact that once addressed an issue vanishes.....and another pops in its place. Its like a patient with too many ailments, nothing chronic though.
Now, I sorted out the issue of the alternator surging the battery and boiling it. I have another electrical issue. After running for a bit, especially at night, the headlights and dash light dim on their own. Even the horn is complicit and sounds like a choking cat rather than a charging lion. Frustrating but I'm plugging away.

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Hello guys. Frosty weather in Nairobi. I managed to clean out the radiator and weld a minor leak. I also run it exclusively on coolant now. Now, there's a strange sound coming from the brake booster. Sounds like a radio that's lost frequency. On the brake fluid reservoir there's two points where push clips attach, from an unknown source. Also, at around 60 kph, the steering wheel vibrates quite a bit. I replaced the required bushes so I don't know where the tremors are coming from.
Next, there are instances of the engine spluttering and jerking, especially if starting after some hours or a day. The rev is uneven. Almost sounds like a Volkswagen beetle revving. And then the engine jerks for a bit, especially in second gear. After running for a bit, everything normalizes.
Thanks for the help thus far guys.

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With regard to the vibration, have you had the front wheels balanced?
 
Also give your front end a good shake to see that all the ball joints and tierod ends are not worn out....(this can lead to steering shudder)...

Try doing it with the wheels on the ground not jacked up....(for the lower ball joints you may have to jack up the arm and lift the tyre off the ground, ( the suspension will still be loaded up and the ball joint roughly at its operating geometry)).

A tip....spray WD40 or CRC or teflon or olive oil!!! into the inside of two tough plastic garbage bags and drive the front wheels onto them on a very flat surface...this will allow the you to shake away and the wheels will have the ability to move about...(also a good way of doing "home" wheel alignments.....)

If there is any doubt as to the degree of movement, get someone to shake, (up/down....left and right...diagonally(for bearing wear
and adjustment))... while you hold onto the balljoint/tierod ends around the gater and you will feel if there is any movement.....
 
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Hi there gamma. I had the ball joints and steering rack replaced last year. This car hasn't had a lot of proper terrain action since then. Do these wear out that fast in a Pug? Pugs in Kenya have a reputation of grinding suspension parts pretty quickly. Is it a rumour or is it true?

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If replaced with modern reproduction ones it would be wise to look at the ball joints

I replaced all of mine when I did the 404. Has been in daily use for 18 months or so and new ball joint already flogged out. Was purchased from Der Franzose and was the non reconditionable type

Some of the after-market stuff can leave a little to be desired at times

Best Wishes

Andrew

Overfinch said:
Hi there gamma. I had the ball joints and steering rack replaced last year. This car hasn't had a lot of proper terrain action since then. Do these wear out that fast in a Pug? Pugs in Kenya have a reputation of grinding suspension parts pretty quickly. Is it a rumour or is it true?

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Hi guys. Hope you are well. I've been flogging away at the pug. I got in replacement ball joints, replacement outer wheel bearings a new fuel pump as mine was leaking and re-tensioned the rear springs. My speedo also now works.

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Hello guys. It's been a while since I communicated progress. I've had a malignant brake booster issue. I've had it remitted but its still leaking vacuum. I'm also not headed with getting a new unit in the shops. Now working on getting a second hand unit although I do not have faith with a second hand unit. I'm at my wits end. Anyone with access to a new unit? I'd honestly consider shipping one in of it were viable.

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