BX diesel ??

DoubleChevron said:
John,

that's a really interesting light weight looking trailer. It looks quite fragile and very small. Would it fit a DS on it ?? Or is it strictly for cars the size of an AX :confused:

That'd be a rippa, and weigh bugger all !!

seeya,
Shane L.
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I moved my CX turbo with one of these!!! They do tham in different sizes, and weights upto 3000kgs. The bed was 5.5 metres long, so it could happily take a CX wagon. I can tell you, it's lightweight, but very robustly made.
john s
 
smiffy1071 said:
I moved my CX turbo with one of these!!! They do tham in different sizes, and weights upto 3000kgs. The bed was 5.5 metres long, so it could happily take a CX wagon. I can tell you, it's lightweight, but very robustly made.
john s
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I've never seen such a thing. The local trailer companys around my area only rent bloody great heavy trailers. Full length checkplate trays, masively overbuilt chassis, long heavy checkerplate ramps ... They weight in at 850+kgs EMPTY :eek: :eek:

Bloody good trailers .... But good greif, you need a medium rigid truck to tow the sort of weight they weigh once there's a car loaded on board.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
The other good things (but not for a dead hydraulic Cit) are those car-dolly jobs that you just pull the front wheels up onto. Like an A-frame but nicer to the towed car :)

Chris
 
chris said:
The other good things (but not for a dead hydraulic Cit) are those car-dolly jobs that you just pull the front wheels up onto. Like an A-frame but nicer to the towed car :)

Chris
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Aren't they illegal in most states :confused: :confused:

Certainly they would be ideal for most. If you could find a way of remotely driving the hydraulic pump they would be ideal for a Citroen.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Probably. Never let a good idea stand in the way of a stupid law etc :mallet:

We used one in New Zealand to collect a rough D -- it ran but wasn't really driveable on its own.

Chris
 
So I finally managed to break my wrists and fingers in enough places to be able to reach the various hoses, clamps, straps, etc. that I had to reconnect to get the head reinstalled. Filled it up with coolant and saw this nice green dribble from the front of the engine.....bloody waterpump is leaking around the shaft :cry: :cry: As well when I pulled out the idler pulley which caused the problem in the first place, it was actually broken - the steel backplate is about 4-5mm thick and had fractured about 3/4 of the length of the mounting - causing the idler wheel to bend over from the tension on the belt - the belt jumped off and the rest is history... So I have just ordered a new water pump, idler pulley and tensioner pulley from GSF - I have my suspicions that either the adjustable tensioner had been overtightened causing too much stress on the fixed one, or it was a stress fracture that finally gave way. Interesting enough, the Citroen-pr site lists an engine set for all Cit engines - which includes a cam belt and the relevant belt tensioners/idler pulleys. Makes me think these things should be changed at every belt change along with the water pump - probably cheap insurance.
 
Quite frankly, with the low cost of a water pump, and a tesioner & idler, it is false economy not to! GSF charge very reasonable prices for these items, so why risk it? I change these as a matter of course when I do a belt change, or a head job on a XU or XUD engine. john s
 
I tend to change the water pump with every timing belt. I changed the adjuster and idler on the BX this time as the mileage on the engine was at 144,000 and the bearings felt less than smooth. I think it’s a bit of overkill to change the idler and adjuster at every belt change. The bearing area is larger on the adjuster and idler and they are not working in an as harsh environment (one end not stuck in boiling water) than the pump.
 
Dave B said:
I tend to change the water pump with every timing belt. I changed the adjuster and idler on the BX this time as the mileage on the engine was at 144,000 and the bearings felt less than smooth. I think it’s a bit of overkill to change the idler and adjuster at every belt change. The bearing area is larger on the adjuster and idler and they are not working in an as harsh environment (one end not stuck in boiling water) than the pump.
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Possibly, but it's no more effort while you have it in bits anyway, and the price isn't a great deal, so why not? john s
 
smiffy1071 said:
Possibly, but it's no more effort while you have it in bits anyway, and the price isn't a great deal, so why not? john s
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This is where you guys live in a different World.

The price some of these places will charge out here for just those parts (ie) Cambelt, tensioners and water pump would buy the best BX for sale in the UK or possibly an above average Xantia.
This is why at times, owners here try to "get away" with the parts rather than replace them. I've heard of cambelts charged out as much as $140, pump up to $350 and tensioners $250+ each, so as a worse case secenario it could cost almost $1000 for these parts given the right thieving toerag being the one selling the parts.

Alan S
 
I take your point Alan, I suppose there are some people out there who when you go to ask them a question, they can only hear a till ringing.
I feel sorry for those who are not so savvy, and don't realise that things needn't cost the earth, if you know where to look. john s
 
Here's my XUD 19NA complete with new belt water pump tensioner and idler. The 17TD is the same.

ASXUD19.jpg
 
Yup, an easy engine to work on! Doing the shims for the valves is a pain though!
I just noticed your location, not far from where I bought my CX 22 from!
john s
 
Dave - must be a lot easier changing the belt, tensioners and water pump with the engine out of the car! By the way, did you have to use or make up the 'special tool' to get the tensioner spring out of the way, or just hold it up and pull the tensioner off/replace it?
 
I've done one or 2 of these! Undo the securing bolt, then you use a ½ inch ratchet, put it straight in the square hole in the tensioner, (you can just see the hole under the cam sprocket) and pull. What could be easier? john s
 
ozziediver said:
Dave - must be a lot easier changing the belt, tensioners and water pump with the engine out of the car! By the way, did you have to use or make up the 'special tool' to get the tensioner spring out of the way, or just hold it up and pull the tensioner off/replace it?
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Sooo much easier with the lump out! It was out as it needed a clutch, head gasget and the belt etc. I re-fitted the tensioner using a screw driver and lots of naughty words :nownow:

Small world innit, if you're the guy Jon sent the cam to, I removed it from the engine up at Jon's place :headbang:
 
Hi Dave
That was me indeed - have it all back together except for the tensioner I'm waiting on - and have also ordered a water pump as mine started to leak around the shaft when I refilled it with coolant. I should have pulled the engine out as well and done it in my garage instead of outside - spent more time searching for dropped parts in the grass than I did putting it together!
My last fun job on it is to try and find the timing hole in the block that is totally hidden behind the starter - so I can stick a drill bit in it to lock the engine. Can't even see the friggin thing with a mirror and light.
 
IT RUNS!!!
All back together yesterday, connected up the battery after having it on charge overnight - nada...no lights, no starter...I though bugger...must have forgotten to connect something up. Checked everything - all good - then decided to hook the charger up to the battery again - lights, horn all came on. So off to Kmart for a decent heavy duty battery, stuck it in - power! Filled it up with fresh oil, connected up a primer bulb from a boat since the Rotodiesel one doesn't work and after filling the filter and cranking it over until I had fuel at all the (loose) injector connections), tightened them up, hit the glowplugs and away it went. Purred like a kitten, so I figured I'd reconnect the fuel supply hose to the filter, left it running while i did some Citarobics and it died...looked underneath to see a nice stream of diesel dribbling out from behind the engine - after poking around in there, found it was the fuel heater on the back of the block immediately next to the water pump. One hose looks like it has pulled off when I was moving the engine up and down to get the cam belt tensioners in - and it is almost impossible to get at. So it runs like a kitten when I have the input side of the fuel filter piped into my jerry can, but it won't run off the normal line as it sucks air in while running and spews diesel when stopped.
So another job for next weekend...I'm thinking of bypassing that thing totally - running the input line straight off the fuel line under the car up to the filter..unless I can shrink my hands by about 50% so I can wiggle in behind the front suspension and get to it.....and I thought weekend were dull :cry: :confused:
 
Hey great news that it runs, did you find the missing exhaust coupling bits, or do you want me to send them (I have them sitting here).

Those fuel heater preheaters are a complete waste of time and their only purpose seems to be to allow air in the fuel! We just put a new piece of pipe direct from the metal fuel line under the car upto the filter.
 
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