BX diesel ??

Hi Smiffy
Thanks for that confirmation - it will definitely make the search for parts easier here in Australia, since the BX TZD never made it here but the 405 TD did as far as I know.
 
Well, just to let you know the grass isn't always greener in europe, as I said, we are working on a BX17turbo-d.
This is a hybrid car, as it started life as a 19RD automatic.
First, the ZF box blew up, so that was the excuse for an engine/box swap, as it lacked any performance at all, and only had a top speed of about 140kph.
It needed to stay as an automatic, as the owner is disabled, and can't use a clutch, but better performance was wanted.
First, we fitted a 1.7 turbo engine, and a Xantia auto box, and upgraded the turbo a bit. It lasted 300km, then the autobox went pop, and also, the engine was not satisfactory.
So, out with that ensemble, and in with a pug 405 turbo-d (1988) and order up brand new from citroen, a Xantia auto box, at a grand cost of £4500, or
AU$11,100!
We are still waiting for the box, nearly 2 months later, and our local dealer tell us they haven't had it. Trouble is, Citroen UK, and Citroen france tell us they have!
I think Cit france are going to get very pissy with cit uk and our local dealer very soon, as this isn't the first time something like this has happened!
Citroen france have promised us we will have it by thursday, even if they have to airmail it to us, cost price, and carriage free! We wait and see!
john s
 
STALLED said:
Just a quick question here,

Are TD cars more expensive to insure because of the "turbo"?

Id really like a diesel car its not practical as the insurance would be astrinomical?

Cyas Stalled
Click to expand...

My experience isn't that TD cars per se are more expensive to insure. My Peugeot 604 was converted from V6 petrol to 4cyl TD. What I find is that most 'run of the mill' insurance companies won't insure it as it has been modified. Those who are prepared to insure it, can charge almost what they like.
The 604 was available as a TD in almost every (if not every) country where the 604 was available - except Australia. My car now is categorised as non-standard.

Cheers
Andrew
 
505604 said:
My experience isn't that TD cars per se are more expensive to insure. My Peugeot 604 was converted from V6 petrol to 4cyl TD. What I find is that most 'run of the mill' insurance companies won't insure it as it has been modified. Those who are prepared to insure it, can charge almost what they like.
The 604 was available as a TD in almost every (if not every) country where the 604 was available - except Australia. My car now is categorised as non-standard.

Cheers
Andrew
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Hi Andrew,

have you tried Shanons insurance. I have several cars through them including a turbo charged personal import. They are quite cheap (when most other insurance companies didn't even want to know me :mad: ).

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Ditto what Shane said. Especially if you are a car club member (indicates some perceived level of responsibility:wink2: )

See http://www.shannons.com.au/shannons/shannons.nsf

We have all four of our cars on one policy and pay by the month. Much less painful. The President of Pug Club of NSW, Doug Smith, works there so you may be able to say some kind things about Pugs and do better?
 
DoubleChevron said:
Hi Andrew,

have you tried Shanons insurance. I have several cars through them including a turbo charged personal import. They are quite cheap (when most other insurance companies didn't even want to know me :mad: ).

seeya,
Shane L.
Click to expand...

Hi Shane
Thanks for the tip, although they didn't want to know me when I tried them about four years ago. They were ok about the car … maybe it had something to do with 2 accidents with kangaroos in the space of 3 weeks???? :tongue:
I'm due to re-insure in the next couple of months, so I'll give them another try. I have the car currently insured through Richard Dawes' Underwriting. He's located in Turramurra (Sydney). Oh, and he was very happy to insure the car for what I wanted it insured for …

Cheers,
Andrew
 
Thanks Alan - emailed the owner and he had already sold the car without breaking it up.
Anyway, got the head off mine and stripped it today and it isn't as bad as I thought. All the valves look OK - will have them checked at a machine shop to be sure - also get the head skimmed to remove some sharp edges on #1 cylinder - see below..
Looks like the following parts will do it:
Cam and followers - sourced in UK
head gasket and bolts - ditto
valve cover gasket, intake/exhaust manifold gasket - ditto
camshaft pump pulley - mine was welded up to allow an electric drill to run the pump
fixed cambelt tension idler - it's what caused the mess
woodruff keys for cam - lost mine in the grass :mad:
Other than that, there is no damage to the valves and pistons that I can see from this incident - initial checks seem to prove the valves are all straight. No. 1 piston and head have both been mangled a bit - but old damage. I suspect some mongrel mechanic at some stage dropped a washer or something down the intake manifold when the intercooler was off and it went straight into #1 cylinder as it is directly below the opening. After smashing up the piston/cylinder head a bit, it went out the exhaust - I checked the turbo blades and they appear OK, so with luck it missed them. I'm going to use my diegrinder and smooth off the top of the piston, skimming the head should fix that part of it, and I will likely need to regrind those two valve seats and valves.
Should have a better handle on all this during the week, but so far I'm pretty confident that's all thats required.

cheers,
 
Hi All
Thought I'd do a quick update on the TZD engine saga....finally got the head back from the shop - was skimmed and the replacement cam and valves from the UK donor car installed - and everything else in the head checked out OK. I just finished putting the manifolds and turbo back on it today and will probably bolt it back on the engine tomorrow. Still don't have the fixed cam belt tensioner from Jon Wood - he is trying to find one for me and until I get that, can't get the belt back on and fire it up, but the rest of it will be back together.
I have a question on moving a hydraulic Cit when it is flat though - is there anyway to jack up the car and block the suspension with wood or something so it can be trailered? I want to bring the car back to my place and finish it in my garage but unless I can get it up a bit, won't be able to load it onto a trailer - anyone done this before?

thanks
 
Roscoe,

You won't be able to contact Jon until next week.
As far as jacking them up goes, I have heard that some have done it using a drill.
You'll need to get the hydraulics up rather than just jacking as you'll find it will hit as it goes up onto the ramps.
I have done a couple onto a flat deck style trailer (without loading ramps) but it's a bit dodgy, by using a scissor jack to raise the car enough to put a trolley jack under it, then fitting 4 axle stands high enough to be able to reverse the trailer underneath it.
To unload, it then takes a bit of manpower to lower the back end down by raising the drawbar end and a lot of choking wheels and jacking backs of cars into the air and eventually sliding the trailer out from under the car; as I say, very hairy job and too hard to describe without getting someone squashed.
I would suggest the drill or possibly a washing machine 240 volt electric motor belt driven onto the pump might also work if a way can be found to be able to mount it on say a timber platform and then attach it and adjust it under the bonnet.
If you're brave enough, you can always do like they do at the Auctions; use a fork lift. :eek: :eek:


Alan S
 
Thanks Alan and Shane
I've got the front of the car off the ground now with blocks under the crossmember so can get that part onto a trailer - it's the back that will be the problem - especially with the towbar. I've already burned out one electric drill trying to drive the pump off it, so a 240v motor looks like the minimum to do it. Is there any way to jam blocks in the front/rear suspension once the car is blocked up to keep it from collapsing back down - that was my original plan but not sure if it would work.

cheers,
 
Just unhitch the trailer and let it's nose go high ... Seriously I've never failed getting a car with and off without damage that way (think the 124" wheel base of a DS still getting on :eek: :eek: A BX will be a peice of cake !!!).

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Roscoe

I don't know that you'd find anywhere to wedge block into. :confused:

As you say, the towbar is going to cause some hassles as it will want to dig into the ground with any angle on the body. Brain resources required.
 
UFO said:
Roscoe

I don't know that you'd find anywhere to wedge block into. :confused:

As you say, the towbar is going to cause some hassles as it will want to dig into the ground with any angle on the body. Brain resources required.
Click to expand...

:confused: :confused:

Every DS I've ever towed has had a towbar sticking out and a 124" wheelbase. ... Still no problem at all getting them on a trailer. Seriously guys, just unhitch the trailer to load the car.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Shane's right; scarey though it may sound. Loading and unloading in the same manner as you do a boat. Problem is, in loading that way, you really need a trailer with a winch on it which is why I usually use axle stands, trolley jacks, planks and big blocks of wood.
How far do you have to trailer it? I once collected a dead D at Wynumn and trailored it to Palm Beach on the Gold Coast long before the days of the Motorway and all I did was just chained the car down tightly. That is far more secure than an ever deflating hydraulic system as the trailer springs tend to absorb a lot of the road shocks.
A word to the wise; be sure to leave one window down before you load it on the trailer as you won't be able to get to steering wheels, steering locks and hand brakes etc once it's on.


Alan S
 
It might be worth seeing if you can locate a low loading tilting-bed trailer.
I hired one of these when I had to move my very dead CX turbo. The trailer chassis stays put, and the whole bed tilts, so there is no lip to get the car over when the car clears the ramps, because there are no ramps!! It had a winch on too. I'm sure something similar must be available in your region, from a hire company. john s
 

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I bit the bullet and gave up on the trailer idea - blocked the car up higher and crawled under it today to get the bottom bits connected back up. The only rotten thing I forgot to do was connect the top turbo oil return line before putting the head on....now I can't get to it from the bottom :mad: :mad: Might need to con my son into doing it with smaller hands than mine :D Other than that, have the exhaust to reconnect and then its just the cam belt end - need to wait for the replacement tensioner before I can finish that bit off. Will finish off everything I can do next weekend and get the timing pins in everything so I don't forget and turn the engine over....and go back to square one!

thanks for all your advice on the trailering,etc. I realized after crawling under it this morning there was no way to block it up on the suspension, so figured I might as well do it where is.

cheers
 
smiffy1071 said:
It might be worth seeing if you can locate a low loading tilting-bed trailer.
I hired one of these when I had to move my very dead CX turbo. The trailer chassis stays put, and the whole bed tilts, so there is no lip to get the car over when the car clears the ramps, because there are no ramps!! It had a winch on too. I'm sure something similar must be available in your region, from a hire company. john s
Click to expand...

John,

that's a really interesting light weight looking trailer. It looks quite fragile and very small. Would it fit a DS on it ?? Or is it strictly for cars the size of an AX :confused:

That'd be a rippa, and weigh bugger all !!

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Wheel Dollies

BRILLIANT IDEA set of these with wheel over snatch straps and you can move anything . Just become available in WA and you couldn't make them for what they cost $45 each $180 a set . I have rolled a couple of cars on and of tilt trays/ and car trailers/ with these but being a wimp i strapped them to the tires ,they would be a bit of missile if they popped out. :blackeye:
 
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