rherber1's link has more information about the supported OSs. Windows XP - Windows 10 and all iOS versions, it says. That surprises me. I wonder how far back into the iOS archives it really does go!
307 key / electronics
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Well it’s pirate software just like your diagbox’s your welcome to get a genuine ds150e at around $4000 but for what you need it for it will be fine I have the 16 update if anyone needs it. It’s all relative
Diagbox 7 was from early 2015
I’ve had these running on xp w7 ,8 and 10 with no issue it will not work natively on iOS
Garage C5 X7 3008 XTE
Gone but not forgotten 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
Fix it right the first time
Diagbox 7 was from early 2015
I’ve had these running on xp w7 ,8 and 10 with no issue it will not work natively on iOS
Garage C5 X7 3008 XTE
Gone but not forgotten 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
Fix it right the first time
I think it would be appreciated by all readers if replies are made using properly structured sentences with standard punctuation. When a sentence has no punctuation it just becomes meaningless garble. For those who are not so experienced as some obviously are, simply stringing words together without punctuation means the reader has to determine where a sentence starts and ends in order to determine the intended meaning.
FWIW I've found nearly any software designed to run oN Win XPSp3.
Will run just as well on Win7-32
Which means you may not locked into using an unsupported and vulnerable operating system. AKA Win XP.
A pipe dream I would suggest. Based on the experience gained from being an AF member for 15 years.
However, I entirely agree with you.
You and me both ...
It is less likely that hardware design will change once all the functions have been proved to work correctly. It is far easier to upgrade software and this is usually only done to include newer vehicles or to improve some processes. While a DS150e might come with outdated software this can easily be updated either by paying for the legitimate release or finding an alternative source.
While pirated software for the DS150e appears to be fairly easily found it appears that the hardware itself is not immune from being pirated. Delphi, the manufacturer of the "genuine" DS150e make the point on this page https://www.delphiautoparts.com/gbr/en/toolbox/how-spot-cheap-imitations
Such warnings also appear on other electronics manufacturer websites, but whether it means you are buying an inferior product is a moot point. For example, Xeltek, who manufacture chip programmers are currently running a special (ex USA) on this particular model https://www.xeltek.com/universal-programmers/superpro-610p-universal-ic-chip-device-programmer/ thus making it much cheaper than its normal price. But when freight is included from the US it comes in at around US$550 or more. You can buy exactly the same programmer from China on Ebay for a little over US$400 including freight. Xeltek have a China factory where this product originates no matter whether it is intended for sale in the Western market or the Asian market. However, the US company can hardly dictate that legitimate Chinese buyers who are sourcing their stock from Xeltek in China cannot onsell via Ebay at a reasonable mark up on their purchase price. That means they can't stop buyers in Australia from buying at a much cheaper price than if they were only able to buy from authorised Xeltek distributors in the USA or Australia.
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One can only keep trying... and you are not the only one who has expressed this sentiment to me regarding this forum.
Well I assume that’s pointed to me as said before I use text to speech because of an injury that has caused an early retirement funnily enough working on these cars as a professional as far as I’m concerned if you don’t like it go jump I help as much as I can on this
Garage C5 X7 3008 XTE
Gone but not forgotten 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
Fix it right the first time
Garage C5 X7 3008 XTE
Gone but not forgotten 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
Fix it right the first time
On the other hand one does have to appreciate that AF members come from diverse backgrounds.
And their automotive skill and knowledge is in no way diminished by not communicating in Oxford English.
So, with the greatest respect, I suggest you adopt the same strategy as me.
And accept any advice that is given in good faith.
As long as you can understand the drift of what is being said , don't get too "hung up" on niceties of punctuation, and simply just accept that another member is trying to assist you to the best of his ability.
Which after all, is what AF is all about: sharing the knowledge.
Delphi DS150E runs perfectly on Win7 Pro 64bit SP1
Needed to be said, thanks Rob :wink2:
Cheers
Chris
I think that those of us who have never had to get a new remote fob key before, and who know nothing of the complexities involved in getting an aftermarket key from a locksmith rather than paying the exorbitant fee asked by the Peugeot dealer, find this a bit confusing to say the least.
For starters, where do you find the information needed in order to select the "right key" on Ebay? I certainly didn't know when I first started on this path and none of the posts I had read on this thread up to now were helpful in that regard.
I discovered Transpondery.com only a day or so ago and here you can get a listing of key transponder chips used by vehicle manufacturers. Here is the Peugeot listing PEUGEOT Transponder Chip Catalog. Extended guide with descriptions about transponders & keys
This may help in choosing the "right key" on Ebay - providing the seller has put the right description in the title. I fell foul of this trick when I bought a key for under $16 because it said suitable for 307's among the Peugeot models in the title. After it arrived and I checked back on the Ebay listing I noticed something on the page I had not seen before. There was a link to a Select vehicle function where you could enter the vehicle particulars and it would produce a result regarding the key suitability for that vehicle. In my case the key I had bought was NOT suitable. The check vehicle function also had a function to show all vehicles that this key did suit and it turned out that it was only for a 206, 1.4L petrol. Now I am convinced that this vehicle check function was not on the page before I paid the money so I visited the seller's store and found he was selling other keys supposedly for Peugeots and not one of these items had a working Select vehicle hyperlink. My impression is that the seller may be working a scam but I can't prove it.
When I complained all he was offering was a 20% refund.
Next, when you say swap the chip over, I have to ask "what chip"? My remote has a board in it with two smd chips on it - there is nothing else visible in the case.
Q
I’m not sure that I ever had a direct answer to the question, but I think that I have discovered some things along the way.
If I remove the battery from the fob, the car will start as normal. However, if I put the battery back in the fob but remove the circuit board, the car will not start. I can’t now remember if there’s any message displayed on the screen, but it could be ‘key faulty’. That tells me that the circuit board is where the chip is located.
Whether or not it is possible to know which particular item on the board is the chip, I don’t know. And if you do know, is it possible to swap it to a different board? Way out of my league.
Taking only the last part of your post (for now), this is what I was trying to find out right at the beginning of this thread - my first post!
I’m not sure that I ever had a direct answer to the question, but I think that I have discovered some things along the way.
If I remove the battery from the fob, the car will start as normal. However, if I put the battery back in the fob but remove the circuit board, the car will not start. I can’t now remember if there’s any message displayed on the screen, but it could be ‘key faulty’. That tells me that the circuit board is where the chip is located.
Whether or not it is possible to know which particular item on the board is the chip, I don’t know. And if you do know, is it possible to swap it to a different board? Way out of my league.
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Fair points, I falsely assumed that since you where here you had some preparedness to go hard at it, I did not know that you knew little of the issues.
In regards the chip, you will find a small piece of graphite in your key fob, (dark grey and stand alone) this is the chip that allows the immobiliser to operate and without it the car will not start. Its like the ship in your credit card, electrically stimulated and responds to vehicle systems, RFID.
So if swapping / buying a new key you will need it, it took me a moment to realise what was going on and I am an electrical engineer and to say I felt silly is an understatement. Fortunately the key (in bin) still had this in it, so I am now a little wiser. So are you now too I trust.
Good!
Not sure why this is occurring as the PCB is all about remote locking, if its malfunctioning this could interfere with things so its possible,
Ah. I now realise it might be a new version and you might find it looking like a grain of rice, glass and on the PCB, a new cheaper way of doing things. Still the same chip but cheaper. It is still doing the same job. By removing the board you are taking it out too.
Swapping the board is quite possible, I have done this and can assist.
Leave board in, no battery and the key works like an old fashioned system, no remote locking!
Yes, because we can't speak face to face we tend to make assumptions based on typed words alone
I am fully aware of "chips" having spent 37 years with PMG/Telecom/Telstra with the last 10 years in electronics design and development. I have had electronics as a hobby since the late 1950's.
And I am aware that both the flip/fob key and the fixed blade spare key are fitted with an RFID device which responds to the near field transmitter in the vehicle when the ignition key is turned on. The RFID device when excited by the field transmits the ID code which signifies to the vehicle computer (BSI) that it is authorised to start the car. In my keys this chip is not separate or even visible but I assume is embedded in the plastic. Only the printed board - which I assume transmits the lock/unlock function, can be removed and transferred to a new fob (which would obviously still have to be programmed).
The board carries 3 smd IC's plus the oscillator xtal and associated smd chip capacitors and resistors. However I cannot find data sheets for the IC devices on the board from the imprinted part numbers even though they are Philips (NXP) devices. Perhaps they are PSA custom identifier numbers.
You appear to have a stand alone chip in your key but this is not so in my case. I also tried the same experiment by removing the battery and leaving the board in - the vehicle does start. If the board is removed the vehicle does not start and the display shows a security fault momentarily.
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Very good, similar backgrounds, 10 years Telstra engineer, radio amateur and general dogs body. The fact the car does not start means immobiliser has been removed, it’s there but obviously not visibly recognised. Let’s swsp phone numbers you send me a picture of said board and I will try to find a replacement
Your problem is similar to mine. The difference is I know I have a low resistance shunt of 40 or so Ohms directly across the battery input terminals. It is not visible when inspected with a x10 magnifier so I think it must be in one of the chips. Incidentally, there are 3 chips on my the board for my 307 key (see my post #55). One of these chips will be the RFID chip I assume.
Your experimental results correspond with mine exactly.
Because my old fob was starting to fall apart, plus the fact that I had bought an incompatible aftermarket fob on Ebay which was useless apart from the case itself, I was encouraged to attempt a transfer of the old blade into the new fob. This was easily accomplished and after replacing the incompatible circuit board with the board from my old fob key the car started as usual (battery removed due to the short cct). This definitely proves that the RFID chip is located on the board in the fob flip key - as you determined empirically. The fixed blade (spare) key has the RFID chip embedded in the moulded plastic body.
It is not likely that many people will have access to the specialised desoldering equipment required for small outline IC's. In addition unless you know what you are doing - even with the right equipment, the IC pins (as well as the board tracks) can be easily damaged making them difficult to straighten so they align perfectly with the solder pads on the new board. It is far cheaper and easier (I say this advisedly) to obtain a new board or preferably a new fob/flip key. Hey, isn't that where we came in?
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I’m not sure what to quote and what not to quote in my response. So I’m not going to quote anything!
I have taken photos of my board and was going to post them on the thread, but it seems that that’s unnecessary now. You both (Matthew and rherber1) have a good idea of what the board has on it, I think.
I have already replaced the outer black plastic case. I did that about 18 months ago from memory. I purchased a new ‘empty’ fob from eBay for approximately $3.00, including post. It did have a blank blade, but I wasn’t interested in that. All I needed (at the time) was the case and the silver button that popped out the blade. I took my blade and circuit board and put them into the new fob, and until I washed my fob a month or so ago, I have had a working remote control fob/key.
I have taken photos of my board and was going to post them on the thread, but it seems that that’s unnecessary now. You both (Matthew and rherber1) have a good idea of what the board has on it, I think.
I have already replaced the outer black plastic case. I did that about 18 months ago from memory. I purchased a new ‘empty’ fob from eBay for approximately $3.00, including post. It did have a blank blade, but I wasn’t interested in that. All I needed (at the time) was the case and the silver button that popped out the blade. I took my blade and circuit board and put them into the new fob, and until I washed my fob a month or so ago, I have had a working remote control fob/key.
This gives it way, how many buttons on the face two only? I ask as the 407 version of this same key has 3.
You will be up for reprogramming the car for another key, all keys deleted and re-entered if you get a new board/key. Meanwhile you have a functioning key minus central locking, if this is important to you I can help identify and replace said board / chip. This also shows the rfid chip is passive. No battery needed.