Penrite only specify one special oil https://penriteoil.com.au/product-selector?by=Drill Down#/recommendations
Thanks for the response, but I am not sure how this will affect the noise in the engine. Maybe very little but not in that way. Besides from 5w30 I went to 5w40. Very small difference. Is it that "sensitive"? I own other cars as well and I never had issues using a bit more heavier oil. Anyway from the log books I saw that they used 5w30. I dont remember the brand but it was not penrite...Unfortunately back to the drawing board...The Penrite oil is 5W-30 and you are using 5W-40
I feel engine noise is related to oil you are using Check out
. Noise for different oil types
I removed the oil filler cap and it did not make any difference...So I think the valve cover is ruled out... :-(Might (?) help understanding (Note this is for a Non Genuine cover)
I moved the engine as much as I could left right, front and backOut of left field - an engine mount/anti torque link?
Thanks buddy. Me neither but I will give it a go...Its such a pain in the rear this thing...As much as one can push doesn't provide much power. Another way to see failed mounts is to use the engine's and brake's power. Get someone to drive the car slowly, bonnet up, a short distance with you watching alongside. Rocking may occur when car motion starts with mild torque. A very hard stop applies considerable torque to the engine and transmission, opposed by the mounts, and rocking may occur.
That said, I doubt it's mounts, but you can try.
Hi David. No misfire faults. I have swapped around the coils. I changed all spark plugs and I checked then after a few kms. They are all fine. No fouling or anything.Have there been any fault codes identified? Is a misfire fault being detected?
Did you manage to isolate the source of the noise at idle with an improvised stethoscope?
An easy thing to do is pull the spark plugs out and see what they look like. They are only good for up to around 40K on these engines in any event. You could also number the coils and swap them around between the cylinders where the noise stays vs stops when you disconnect the socket. Does the behaviour change or not?
Look, it's up to you what oil you use - it's your engine - but have you researched the correct oil specifications for this engine? I suspect that your 5W40 is not ESP/Low SAPS/Low ash oil, and does not meet the C3 specification, which I'm pretty certain your engine requires.Thanks for the response, but I am not sure how this will affect the noise in the engine. Maybe very little but not in that way. Besides from 5w30 I went to 5w40. Very small difference. Is it that "sensitive"? I own other cars as well and I never had issues using a bit more heavier oil. Anyway from the log books I saw that they used 5w30. I dont remember the brand but it was not penrite...Unfortunately back to the drawing board...
Thanks Armidillo. I agree with you. It is not but it will do for now as I dont want to spend hundreds of dollars on service parts, until I figure out what the issue is. Besides I am doing minimal driving which is around the block for testing.Look, it's up to you what oil you use - it's your engine - but have you researched the correct oil specifications for this engine? I suspect that your 5W40 is not ESP/Low SAPS/Low ash oil, and does not meet the C3 specification, which I'm pretty certain your engine requires.
As you say, this may not be relevant to the current strange noise, but will be relevant to the long-term (and maybe even short-term) health of the engine.
Thanks Greenpeace. This is interesting...No I did not do the stethoscope thingy today. I have some hoses in the shed and I will do it tomorrow morning, but the sound seems to be coming from the top end of the engine.I had a Japanese car that had a more complex than normal PCV system. it used to make a regular, light thudding sound at idle. I never did a cylinder drop test as once I knew what was making the noise I left it alone.
If cylinders 2 and 3 make a difference it could be related to different pulses within the intake manifold to that of cylinders 1 and 4 (rather than something mechanical). Usually PCV systems link to the center of the inlet manifold rather than at one end.
Did you do the stethoscope test on the valve cover and inlet manifold. I sometime use a piece of hose held to my ear if the stethoscope or screwdriver to the ear is inconclusive.
Rod bearing/s usually make a horrible rattle on hard acceleration and crankshaft main bearings as a rumble at idle. If the car is a manual is the noise there with the clutch is pressed down?
If you're using a screwdriver put the end of the handle on your tragus and close the ear canal with this part of the ear's anatomy. A screwdriver with steel all the way through the handle will give a clearer signal than one that doesn't, just don't rest it on a spark plug.Thanks Greenpeace. This is interesting...No I did not do the stethoscope thingy today. I have some hoses in the shed and I will do it tomorrow morning, but the sound seems to be coming from the top end of the engine.
Hahaha! Thanks for that Greenpeace! I will also try to see if the noise goes away by pressing the clutchIf you're using a screwdriver put the end of the handle on your tragus and close the ear canal with this part of the ear's anatomy. A screwdriver with steel all the way through the handle will give a clearer signal than one that doesn't, just don't rest it on a spark plug.
Ok take the vacuum pump pipe of to reduce the load on it the vacuum pumps on these can fail and make the engine go bang.Ok I think we are getting somewhere…
I played doctor this morning with my car and with the screwdriver stethoscope method I was able to find where I think the noise is coming from. I am attaching a picture.
Any ideas?
I did but the sound is still there? Do I have to remove the cover and see what’s happening?Ok take the vacuum pump pipe of to reduce the load on it the vacuum pumps on these can fail and make the engine go bang.