Penrite only specify one special oil https://penriteoil.com.au/product-selector?by=Drill Down#/recommendations
208 Thudding noise
- Thread starter jnin
- Start date
Might (?) help understanding (Note this is for a Non Genuine cover)
Thanks for the response, but I am not sure how this will affect the noise in the engine. Maybe very little but not in that way. Besides from 5w30 I went to 5w40. Very small difference. Is it that "sensitive"? I own other cars as well and I never had issues using a bit more heavier oil. Anyway from the log books I saw that they used 5w30. I dont remember the brand but it was not penrite...Unfortunately back to the drawing board...
I removed the oil filler cap
and it did not make any difference...So I think the valve cover is ruled out... :-(
I moved the engine as much as I could left right, front and back
And I can’t hear any noises
I went underneath as well and the same
As much as one can push doesn't provide much power. Another way to see failed mounts is to use the engine's and brake's power. Get someone to drive the car slowly, bonnet up, a short distance with you watching alongside. Rocking may occur when car motion starts with mild torque. A very hard stop applies considerable torque to the engine and transmission, opposed by the mounts, and rocking may occur.
That said, I doubt it's mounts, but you can try.
That said, I doubt it's mounts, but you can try.
Thanks buddy. Me neither but I will give it a go...Its such a pain in the rear this thing...
Have there been any fault codes identified? Is a misfire fault being detected?
Did you manage to isolate the source of the noise at idle with an improvised stethoscope?
An easy thing to do is pull the spark plugs out and see what they look like. They are only good for up to around 40K on these engines in any event. You could also number the coils and swap them around between the cylinders where the noise stays vs stops when you disconnect the socket. Does the behaviour change or not?
Did you manage to isolate the source of the noise at idle with an improvised stethoscope?
An easy thing to do is pull the spark plugs out and see what they look like. They are only good for up to around 40K on these engines in any event. You could also number the coils and swap them around between the cylinders where the noise stays vs stops when you disconnect the socket. Does the behaviour change or not?
Hi David. No misfire faults. I have swapped around the coils. I changed all spark plugs and I checked then after a few kms. They are all fine. No fouling or anything.
The noise goes away if I remove the plug from coil on cylinder 2 or cylinder 3. Noise remains if I remove coil from cylinder 1 or 4. Which is strange...As soon as I rev up the engine above 1000rpm noise goes away as well.
I haven't done the stethoscope thing yet. I will do it tomorrow. Log books also say that timing chain, tensioner and guides have been done back in 2019.
Look, it's up to you what oil you use - it's your engine - but have you researched the correct oil specifications for this engine? I suspect that your 5W40 is not ESP/Low SAPS/Low ash oil, and does not meet the C3 specification, which I'm pretty certain your engine requires.
As you say, this may not be relevant to the current strange noise, but will be relevant to the long-term (and maybe even short-term) health of the engine.
Thanks Armidillo. I agree with you. It is not but it will do for now as I dont want to spend hundreds of dollars on service parts, until I figure out what the issue is. Besides I am doing minimal driving which is around the block for testing.
The fact that the noise stops by removing the coil plug from either of the cylinders 2 or 3, tells me that oil type has nothing to do at this stage.
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I had a Japanese car that had a more complex than normal PCV system. it used to make a regular, light thudding sound at idle. I never did a cylinder drop test as once I knew what was making the noise I left it alone.
If cylinders 2 and 3 make a difference it could be related to different pulses within the intake manifold to that of cylinders 1 and 4 (rather than something mechanical). Usually PCV systems link to the center of the inlet manifold rather than at one end.
Did you do the stethoscope test on the valve cover and inlet manifold. I sometime use a piece of hose held to my ear if the stethoscope or screwdriver to the ear is inconclusive.
Rod bearing/s usually make a horrible rattle on hard acceleration and crankshaft main bearings as a rumble at idle. If the car is a manual is the noise there with the clutch is pressed down?
If cylinders 2 and 3 make a difference it could be related to different pulses within the intake manifold to that of cylinders 1 and 4 (rather than something mechanical). Usually PCV systems link to the center of the inlet manifold rather than at one end.
Did you do the stethoscope test on the valve cover and inlet manifold. I sometime use a piece of hose held to my ear if the stethoscope or screwdriver to the ear is inconclusive.
Rod bearing/s usually make a horrible rattle on hard acceleration and crankshaft main bearings as a rumble at idle. If the car is a manual is the noise there with the clutch is pressed down?
Thanks Greenpeace. This is interesting...No I did not do the stethoscope thingy today. I have some hoses in the shed and I will do it tomorrow morning, but the sound seems to be coming from the top end of the engine.
If you're using a screwdriver put the end of the handle on your tragus and close the ear canal with this part of the ear's anatomy. A screwdriver with steel all the way through the handle will give a clearer signal than one that doesn't, just don't rest it on a spark plug.
Hahaha! Thanks for that Greenpeace! I will also try to see if the noise goes away by pressing the clutchIf you're using a screwdriver put the end of the handle on your tragus and close the ear canal with this part of the ear's anatomy. A screwdriver with steel all the way through the handle will give a clearer signal than one that doesn't, just don't rest it on a spark plug.
Ok take the vacuum pump pipe of to reduce the load on it the vacuum pumps on these can fail and make the engine go bang.
I did but the sound is still there? Do I have to remove the cover and see what’s happening?