205 Si 1.6L Auto Rescue

Gti struts have a drop link tab welded to the strut tube and si ones don't. Si has no front sway bar (it has radius rods) gti does. Also I think gti struts are marginally longer than si (approx 15mm)

basically if your keeping the original si front end use non gti struts. If your going firmer suspension and/or a gti front end later you can probley buy gti struts and run in si frontend but the drop link tab fouls on the si brake hose mount that's on the body. I modified my si brake hose mounts by moving them when I fitted the gti front end. That way I could use 205 si 205 gti or 306 struts. 306 struts put the drop links in a slightly twisted position due to the position of the tab on the strut but they still worked fine for me. The reason I used 306 struts was because they came from a xu10j4 car that had only done 60000km.
Thats @djvu205 - good advice.

I plan to put firmer front-end suspension in (fix the problem the first time) and when opportunity (and parts) appear upgrade it to a GTI front end.

Sounds like the best approach is as you suggest - move the brake line mounts up out of the day and install GTI springs and dampers now.

Thanks,

Sean
 
Thanks Peter,

Can you suggest a particular model/part number for the cam and a supplier ?

Also, confirming my read of your post the current head on the Si's XU5M3 is suitable (and should probably just be reconditioned?

Thanks,

Sean
If it was mine, I'd find a worn DKZ cam and have it reground by someone like Crow Cams. Alternatively, just buy new Catcams, Piper or Kent from the UK. The latter will cost a lot more.

Yes, you just need to recondition the Si head, including 3 angle seats and have the spring seat pressures checked.
 
if I can get the seats reupholstered in something sympathetic but retain the carpet and door cards I'll be happy.
If you are trying to keep the budget under control, I would avoid reupholstering the seats. It will cost thousands and very few people seem to be able to get the front seats quite right on a 205 when they recover them. That money would pay for engine management and tuning it. Si front seats periodically come available in good condition. Graham may even have some from the rally projects he strips out. As Schlitz says, if necessary you can use a passenger base on the driver's side and get a good driver's seat that way for not much cost. Even buying another Si with good seats and swapping them into your car then reselling the donor will cost much less than recovering originals. If necessary, you can buy new foam bases in Europe.
 
I just threw away 2 good sets of Si seats that got mouldy in the garage. If I had an Si I'd go straight to making it Rallye:

 
Day 9 - Basic maintenance begins

The car came with a pile of receipts - and it looks like servicing and maintenance may not have been kept up to date. A key quote:

"The temperature gauge fluctuates, on road test it settles when decelerating. Possible gauge problem"

I did not notice this - however the oil temperature sender at the rear of the sump appears to have been disconnected (no wire in sight) and the wire to the radiator sensor had been unplugged. Also, the lamp in the coolant temperature indicator does not light up when starting the car. This will need some more investigation and tracing to see what may or may not be missing/unplugged/??

Hopefully the weather stays dry and I can sort this out this week.

The oil was another matter. To cut things short, it was filthy, bitter and had a light odour of fuel. So cut to 'Plan B' and stick to changing the oil, and change it again after 100Km or so and replace the oil filter then (I know - I'm avoiding it but if you know where the filter is you'd understand why).

Changing the oil was new - first time I've done this on a French car and first time I've seen that kind of sump plug.

View attachment 202069 View attachment 202070 View attachment 202071

For those who are in a similar position to me, the plug is rounded and the only way to safely remove it is with an 8mm square driver (included in 3rd photo) the receipt lists as "AP DRAIN PLUG KEY 8mm SQUARE 3/8 DRV". You'd think these are reasonably common but no (I tried four different retailers without any luck until one pointed me to MWS). If you are near Hobart I can recommend "MWS Auto Tools" in Gormanston Rd Moonah - the guy was heading out back to grab one off the shelf before I finished explaining what I was after. Only $15 and problem solved (although his shop had some nice things).

For those of you with keen eyes - no, there's no washer on the sump plug. I'll be buying a new plug and washer as soon as practical.

Oil was filthy - so well overdue for a clean.

View attachment 202073

I'll read back through some of the posts on the site on wheels. Currently the Si has the original stock 205 Si alloys (5.00B13FHH28) and it irks me to spend money on new tyres for rims I intend to get rid of as soon as possible. Starting position is a set of 306 alloys (there has to be some with a wrecker somewhere now) with spacers on the rear, while I test my patience looking for some 205 GTI SL299 alloys. I can borrow a couple from someone I know who has a GTI to check clearances and see if a set of Rallye arches will be sufficient.

On costs to date, excluding some tools I needed I'm $137 into this and that includes stuff like 6 cans of brake cleaner, 10L of coolant and 10L of oil so I'm happy so far. Useful parts like fuel and air filters, sump plug and things more Peugeot specific may accelerate things :)

Again, thanks everyone for your advice and patience.

Sean
I’m about to do an oil & filter change this weekend. Is there a trick to getting the filter off. Space looks super tight, has something else got to come out?
 
Depends how stuck the filter is to the block. I have had a nightmare fight with a filter that had welded its flange to the heat exchanger and it only came out bit by bit (cut with an angle grinder) until the flange was all that was left of it and even then, I had to cut the flange off the spigot. No idea why it welded itself there, I have never experienced anything like that before or after.

If you are lucky it will come off without taking anything else off, if not get ready to fight.
 
I've put it on the 'another time' list for the moment. The position of the oil filter is insane - I can't see how to get my hand/arm in there without becoming a permanent part of the engine bay.

The only practical way I can see is to remove the radiator.

If someone has a better suggestion I'm very keen to hear it.

Sean
 
Hehehehe. It's not that hard to unbolt a few things and get a little bit better access. You can try using one of those strap ratchets if you can squeeze it in past all the obstruction but I didn't have any success with it on my GTI (as in it doesn't manage to move the filter). I will probably invest in an oil filter socket at some point.
 
Well my Sunday morning turned a bit crap. Got up early with the intent to remove the radiator to get to the oil filter to do an oil change. Went to remove the radiator drain plug and… snap! It came off

I’m assuming it’s something that any radiator place can fix, although it didn’t really look like it was welded on? Anyone had experience with this?
 

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Ouch - that's a great way to start Sunday :-(. I hope that the last person who fitted the drain plug didn't Locktite it in

I think you are correct - look for someone who does radiator repairs and have them braze the fitting back onto the radiator. While it's off I'd be tempted to soak the fitting with WD40 and see if it help loosen the drain plug. Maybe a bit of gentle heat will help free it up when they repair the fitting as well.

Here's to better luck next weekend !

Sean
 
You can solder the drain back on yourself.

It was soldered originally anyway, because I see your radiator is brass (the repair shop will solder it too).

All you need is a burner of some sort and solder. Just clean both parts around the join perfectly (scotchbrite does a very good job) so you don't have any crap around there, put the drain back (take the plug out to reduce the mass you have to heat), heat both nicely and then add solder.

If you use electronic type resin core solder, the thickest wire you can find, you won't need to add flux paste (and I wouldn't use any other type of flux anyway, because it is too corrosive).

Easy peasy job, should not take more than a few minutes. Don't heat the radiator tank too much and too far from the join or you will melt the core to tank join.
 
You can solder the drain back on yourself.

It was soldered originally anyway, because I see your radiator is brass (the repair shop will solder it too).

All you need is a burner of some sort and solder. Just clean both parts around the join perfectly (scotchbrite does a very good job) so you don't have any crap around there, put the drain back (take the plug out to reduce the mass you have to heat), heat both nicely and then add solder.

If you use electronic type resin core solder, the thickest wire you can find, you won't need to add flux paste (and I wouldn't use any other type of flux anyway, because it is too corrosive).

Easy peasy job, should not take more than a few minutes. Don't heat the radiator tank too much and too far from the join or you will melt the core to tank join.
Cheers Schlitz- would a handheld kitchen/cooks burner do the trick?
 
Don't know what that is, but if it has a concentrated adjustable flame should work.

I use a crappy butane torch like this:


Mine is even crappier than that.
Not the prettiest but seems to be holding

Used that butane thingy from Bunnings

Thanks for the advice all!
 

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Day 22 - Now the waiting starts ...

The past week or so has been spent reading, thinking, and shopping around. Orders in for a few bits and pieces (wallet beginning to twinge - out of training I guess)
  • 4 x Nimrod Ouragan rims - in transit and hopefully here early next week
  • 4 x Michelin Pilot Sport 3 (195/50R15) sitting in the shed next to the 'pug
  • A set of Eibach 7001.120 GTI springs should be on their way -
  • 2 x Bilsten B6 struts (left and right) coming from KamRacing in the UK - probably a month away (also ordered a pair of BakerBM Group N Front Strut top rubbers to replace the original Peugeot components)
  • HEL braided brake hoses coming some time soon.
  • Replacement stereo turned up last week
The Bilstein dampers were a bit of a challenge to hunt down. KamRacing have one in stock, with the other coming to them from Germany. Rear dampers currently not available from anyone - ETA looking like some time in June maybe. I tried getting price from Repco to see what they could do. Very helpful people, but the best ETA they could provide was June for everything and they were more expensive than ordering from KamRacing (yes - even allowing for GST and import duties) so I may buy a few more nice things from the UK as time passes.

I still need to sort the rear suspension out - It looks like I may need to put up with the old dampers until I can buy new Bilstein's. I'm not sure how exactly that will work out with balance and handling. Given the currently available power from the engine I don't think I'll be in trouble any time soon.

I've been chatting to Alain/Alan - hopefully I will have front brake callipers and carriers for 266mm rotors in a couple of weeks. All I need to do now is work out where/how to get a suitable 22mm master cylinder and - as per PeterT's advice - I can get the brakes sorted properly.

It looks like I'll be spending the next couple of weeks on 'busy work' until things start arriving. Fitting the stereo (and sorting out something neat for the currently absent rear speakers) and maybe fixing up the rims will likely be the order for the day.

Just like waiting for Santa !

Sean
 
Not the prettiest but seems to be holding

Used that butane thingy from Bunnings

Thanks for the advice all!
Doesn't look that bad, but the way it is convex like that, there is doubt about how well it has adhered to the mated parts. I would say especially on the right side in your picture where it looks like that blob doesn't actually touch the spout. Give it another try. Try to reflow it - re-heat and brush away some of the solder with a wire brush, let cool, clean with wire brush and then scotchbrite to shiny, then heat again and add solder but only when the whole thing is hot; solder will wick in by itself . When it is well and truly soldered you should see a concave bead running evenly around the join. Best take it off and clean to shiny the inside of the join on both parts. That will ensure the solder flows inside the join.
 
Day 22 - Now the waiting starts ...

The past week or so has been spent reading, thinking, and shopping around. Orders in for a few bits and pieces (wallet beginning to twinge - out of training I guess)
  • 4 x Nimrod Ouragan rims - in transit and hopefully here early next week
  • 4 x Michelin Pilot Sport 3 (195/50R15) sitting in the shed next to the 'pug
  • A set of Eibach 7001.120 GTI springs should be on their way -
  • 2 x Bilsten B6 struts (left and right) coming from KamRacing in the UK - probably a month away (also ordered a pair of BakerBM Group N Front Strut top rubbers to replace the original Peugeot components)
  • HEL braided brake hoses coming some time soon.
  • Replacement stereo turned up last week
The Bilstein dampers were a bit of a challenge to hunt down. KamRacing have one in stock, with the other coming to them from Germany. Rear dampers currently not available from anyone - ETA looking like some time in June maybe. I tried getting price from Repco to see what they could do. Very helpful people, but the best ETA they could provide was June for everything and they were more expensive than ordering from KamRacing (yes - even allowing for GST and import duties) so I may buy a few more nice things from the UK as time passes.

I still need to sort the rear suspension out - It looks like I may need to put up with the old dampers until I can buy new Bilstein's. I'm not sure how exactly that will work out with balance and handling. Given the currently available power from the engine I don't think I'll be in trouble any time soon.

I've been chatting to Alain/Alan - hopefully I will have front brake callipers and carriers for 266mm rotors in a couple of weeks. All I need to do now is work out where/how to get a suitable 22mm master cylinder and - as per PeterT's advice - I can get the brakes sorted properly.

It looks like I'll be spending the next couple of weeks on 'busy work' until things start arriving. Fitting the stereo (and sorting out something neat for the currently absent rear speakers) and maybe fixing up the rims will likely be the order for the day.

Just like waiting for Santa !

Sean
Get a pair of used 306 rear shocks they will be much better than anything you can buy. Hope you didn’t order bolstering b4
 
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