2004 407 V6 3.0l 6D 6 Speed Wont Start

OK, must have been an error when you measured 12v on fuse 5.
Do you have any crimp spade connectors?
Next step is as DMC says, putting 12v onto fuse 10 from another source to provide power to the injectors and then crank the engine to see if it starts. If it does, remove the wire to stop the engine (ign key won't turn it off).
Apply 12V to fuse 10 (both sides one after the other) still wont start.
 
Voltage at fuses 5 and 10 are 12.01v when cranking and back to 0v after.
And from your first pdf with the fuse measurements what I suspected would be the case, which means this PSF1/BSM has not failed, well at least not the usual failure where fuse 5 and 10 have 0v when cranking.
The other test with putting 12v on fuse 10 is irrelevant, it was only if it was 0v when cranking, something else is causing engine not to start.

Replaced the timing belt, water pump and rollers, new spark plugs, new ignition coils, new rocker cover gaskets, new solenoids for the gearbox, cleaning and new seals for the injectors, replaced the indicator unit, installed a new starter motor and replaced the engine fan.
As these things were likely done before you got Diagbox, all the codes you read are suspect and some a misdirection, so clear the codes and start again.

Start with checking if fuel pump is working.
 
Did we rule out #6 yet?
As in making sure of good earths?
Still worth doing, though was based on post #1 codes having being logged on the drive and not by post #29
 
As in making sure of good earths?
Still worth doing, though was based on post #1 codes having being logged on the drive and not by post #29
I cleared most of the fault codes except BSI faults, also have checked the earth conection on the fusebox and to the chasis all ok.
 
And from your first pdf with the fuse measurements what I suspected would be the case, which means this PSF1/BSM has not failed, well at least not the usual failure where fuse 5 and 10 have 0v when cranking.
The other test with putting 12v on fuse 10 is irrelevant, it was only if it was 0v when cranking, something else is causing engine not to start.


As these things were likely done before you got Diagbox, all the codes you read are suspect and some a misdirection, so clear the codes and start again.

Start with checking if fuel pump is working.
Are you able to advise me as to how I test the fuel pump? also will there be any codes as the engine wont start or is that irelevent.
 
Smells like a engine Fuse box issue check the injection fuse for power maybe fuse 8 from memory if no power put power down it and it should start.
I did not know that the posts were on different pages that is why I could not reply to your suddestion.
On fuse 8 there is 13.01v ignition off and 12.07v ignition on
 
No. Complete different electrical systems (CAN-bus).

Just get another BSM. Besides, I always advice 407 users and the likes to get or have a spare BSM, no matter what or how good the car currently is. They can give up when you least expect. It also makes diagnosis much faster and easier, rather than guess work or beating about the bush. If you had a spare BSM, you would have swapped it in to confirm if it's BSM issue or something else by now. It's plug and play (no cut and join like the D8 engine bay fuse box you referred to). A good used BSM can still do the job, if you can't afford new one. I prefer new one though.

Lion-King Monk.
I have got a used BSM coming should be here 5th Luly
 
So the current car issue started immediately you replaced the throttle body wiring connector?

Lion-King Monk
I do not know, I went for a short drive to make sure the car accelerated properly, but it was running rough, when I got back I checked it with my Autel MaxiDiag and found that cylinders 1 & 2 were missfiring, so I started the engine and one at a time removed those leads, that did made no difference so I removed both coils and cleaned the spark plugs and swapped them both (coil & plug, not the leads) over. That seamed to improve the idling but it was a bit rough and there is a lag in accelerartion when reved. So I when for a longer drive and that is when this started to happen these are some of the notifications that appeared on the instrument panel ie. cruise not working, under inflation, ABS not working, lose of power and a number more which I can't remember. That is when I got home and the engine stopped and will not restart. This all happend about 3 weeks before I got my MaxiDiag set-up on my laptop and got all of those faults that i previously posted.
 
I do not know, I went for a short drive to make sure the car accelerated properly, but it was running rough, when I got back I checked it with my Autel MaxiDiag and found that cylinders 1 & 2 were missfiring, so I started the engine and one at a time removed those leads, that did made no difference so I removed both coils and cleaned the spark plugs and swapped them both (coil & plug, not the leads) over. That seamed to improve the idling but it was a bit rough and there is a lag in accelerartion when reved. So I when for a longer drive and that is when this started to happen these are some of the notifications that appeared on the instrument panel ie. cruise not working, under inflation, ABS not working, lose of power and a number more which I can't remember. That is when I got home and the engine stopped and will not restart. This all happend about 3 weeks before I got my MaxiDiag set-up on my laptop and got all of those faults that i previously posted.
Disconnect the engine speed sensor wiring connector on the sensor and plug it back in and crank the engine. The sensor wiring connector is not easy to access on ES9A, but it's doable with determination.

Lion-King Monk.
 
I do not know, I went for a short drive to make sure the car accelerated properly, but it was running rough, when I got back I checked it with my Autel MaxiDiag and found that cylinders 1 & 2 were missfiring, so I started the engine and one at a time removed those leads, that did made no difference so I removed both coils and cleaned the spark plugs and swapped them both (coil & plug, not the leads) over. That seamed to improve the idling but it was a bit rough and there is a lag in accelerartion when reved. So I when for a longer drive and that is when this started to happen these are some of the notifications that appeared on the instrument panel ie. cruise not working, under inflation, ABS not working, lose of power and a number more which I can't remember. That is when I got home and the engine stopped and will not restart. This all happend about 3 weeks before I got my MaxiDiag set-up on my laptop and got all of those faults that i previously posted.
Also, did you disconnect, pulled or touched this connectors on top of bank 1 on the image below? A member, @407, suggested you check the connectors earlier, but I advised against it earlier because they do break and disintegrate sometimes when being disconnected or attempting to plug back in and create another big problem until replaced.

If you touched the connectors, carefully separate the connectors and check if the pins aligned properly inside the other connector while sliding in the other. If the blue plastics covered by the big black plastics have cracked or start disintegrating, one or two of the points or pins may not enter the correct holes on the other connector or may be touching each other. And you must reconnect the two connectors by pushing them in from behind each connectors (see the blue circles on the image/pictures). Better still, remove those rubber boots behind and push the 2 blue plastics in when you reconnect the connectors. Those blue plastics that the wires are slotted in must not stick out behind the black plastic covers. Push them in inside the black plastic covers for the wires on each side of the connectors to meet the other side. If not done, one or two injectors or coils won't power or car may not start.

Notwithstanding, these connectors shouldn't trigger the ABS warning lights you mentioned, unless there was a blowback to the BSM from the connectors.

Lion-King Monk.
 

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Also, did you disconnect, pulled or touched this connectors on top of bank 1 on the image below? A member, @407, suggested you check the connectors earlier, but I advised against it earlier because they do break and disintegrate sometimes when being disconnected or attempting to plug back in and create another big problem until replaced.

If you touched the connectors, carefully separate the connectors and check if the pins aligned properly inside the other connector while sliding in the other. If the blue plastics covered by the big black plastics have cracked or start disintegrating, one or two of the points or pins may not enter the correct holes on the other connector or may be touching each other. And you must reconnect the two connectors by pushing them in from behind each connectors (see the blue circles on the image/pictures). Better still, remove those rubber boots behind and push the 2 blue plastics in when you reconnect the connectors. Those blue plastics that the wires are slotted in must not stick out behind the black plastic covers. Push them in inside the black plastic covers for the wires on each side of the connectors to meet the other side. If not done, one or two injectors or coils won't power or car may not start.

Notwithstanding, these connectors shouldn't trigger the ABS warning lights you mentioned, unless there was a blowback to the BSM from the connectors.

Lion-King Monk.
Thanks for getting back to me with that info I will do so tomorrow, and yes I had taken all of the engine electric harnes off as there broken connections and soldering that you would expect on the Tiranic and yes i made sure that all the wires where connected to their right parner via the numbering on the wires.
 
Thanks for getting back to me with that info I will do so tomorrow, and yes I had taken all of the engine electric harnes off as there broken connections and soldering that you would expect on the Tiranic and yes i made sure that all the wires where connected to their right parner via the numbering on the wires.
Start with disconnecting and plugging back the Engine Speed sensor first.

Lion-King Monk
 
Disconnect the engine speed sensor wiring connector on the sensor and plug it back in and crank the engine. The sensor wiring connector is not easy to access on ES9A, but it's doable with determination.

Lion-King Monk.
Any hint as to where the speed sensor is?
 
Any hint as to where the speed sensor is?
It's located under the thermostat housing with black wiring connector with 2 wires. It's a little bit hidden. Mounted on gearbox (close to where the engine meets with gearbox). The circle on the attached pic is where the sensor is mounted.

Lion-King Monk
 

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