2004 407 V6 3.0l 6D 6 Speed Wont Start

Ikenna351 said:
No. Complete different electrical systems (CAN-bus).

Just get another BSM. Besides, I always advice 407 users and the likes to get or have a spare BSM, no matter what or how good the car currently is. They can give up when you least expect. It also makes diagnosis much faster and easier, rather than guess work or beating about the bush. If you had a spare BSM, you would have swapped it in to confirm if it's BSM issue or something else by now. It's plug and play (no cut and join like the D8 engine bay fuse box you referred to). A good used BSM can still do the job, if you can't afford new one. I prefer new one though.

Lion-King Monk.
Click to expand...
Thanks I really appreciate your help. Will now start looking for a new BSM
 
Suggest you check the connectors to the ECU as it sounds like the same issue I had

The dieletric grease in the three 48 pin connectors turns to sillicon sludge and causes connection issues.

I broke the lower tabs off, sprayed electrical contact cleaner in and used a air gun to get rid of all the gunk.

Also check the connector on top of the engine (last pic) is properly fitted - it looks okay but after 20 years starts falling apart and Diag throws up all sort of codes

Car has been fine since then (other than a cambox oil leak)

dielectric grease blobs


ECU 48 way showing blobs below cleaning


engine connector 407 v6 petrol .png
 
407 said:
Suggest you check the connectors to the ECU as it sounds like the same issue I had

The dieletric grease in the three 48 pin connectors turns to sillicon sludge and causes connection issues.

I broke the lower tabs off, sprayed electrical contact cleaner in and used a air gun to get rid of all the gunk.

Also check the connector on top of the engine (last pic) is properly fitted - it looks okay but after 20 years starts falling apart and Diag throws up all sort of codes

Car has been fine since then (other than a cambox oil leak)

dielectric grease blobs


ECU 48 way showing blobs below cleaning


engine connector 407 v6 petrol .png
Click to expand...
I would strongly suggest he avoid these 2 connectors on the engine, if he didn't touch them before the issue started. Based on symptoms he described on the first post on the thread, these 2 connectors have little or none to do with other issues that popped up beside engine.

Disconnecting and plugging in those 2 connectors together pose risk of them breaking, cracking, points touching each others and start causing a lot of issues.

Lion-King Monk
 
Ikenna351 said:
I would strongly suggest he avoid these 2 connectors on the engine, if he didn't touch them before the issue started. Based on symptoms he described on the first post on the thread, these 2 connectors have little or none to do with other issues that popped up beside engine.

Disconnecting and plugging in those 2 connectors together pose risk of them breaking, cracking, points touching each others and start causing a lot of issues.

Lion-King Monk
Click to expand...
As you said, have alook at the BSM that I took out of the car, it looks like you hit the nail on the head!!
Thanks once again
 

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Zeus said:
As you said, have alook at the BSM that I took out of the car, it looks like you hit the nail on the head!!
Thanks once again
Click to expand...
Can't see any damage in your photo of the top side, might be mislabelled?
 
AlexB said:
Can't see any damage in your photo of the top side, might be mislabelled?
Click to expand...
Damn I looked at what I thought was bubbling, caused by overheating, on the relays and jumped to the wrong conclusion.
Is it possible that one or more have overheated due to being partially covered with whatever it is??
When I first bought the car I drove it home from Sydney, after about 220 Klm the car started to loose power and I thought it might be due to overheating, after about 3/4 hour, it started OK and I headed home then after about 180 Klm it started to loose power again, so I pulled over and waited for approximately 1/2 hour started the car OK and drove home.
Since then i have been working on the car, I have:
Replaced the timing belt, water pump and rollers, new spark plugs, new ignition coils, new rocker cover gaskets, new solenoids for the gearbox, cleaning and new seals for the injectors, replaced the indicator unit, installed a new starter motor and replaced the engine fan.
It just keeps going on and on.
I have not driven the car since I bought it.
Now this!!!
 
Ikenna351 said:
No. Complete different electrical systems (CAN-bus).

Just get another BSM. Besides, I always advice 407 users and the likes to get or have a spare BSM, no matter what or how good the car currently is. They can give up when you least expect. It also makes diagnosis much faster and easier, rather than guess work or beating about the bush. If you had a spare BSM, you would have swapped it in to confirm if it's BSM issue or something else by now. It's plug and play (no cut and join like the D8 engine bay fuse box you referred to). A good used BSM can still do the job, if you can't afford new one. I prefer new one though.

Lion-King Monk.
Click to expand...
New BSM for $3,650 will look for a used one.
 
Zeus said:
Damn I looked at what I thought was bubbling, caused by overheating, on the relays and jumped to the wrong conclusion.
Is it possible that one or more have overheated due to being partially covered with whatever it is??
When I first bought the car I drove it home from Sydney, after about 220 Klm the car started to loose power and I thought it might be due to overheating, after about 3/4 hour, it started OK and I headed home then after about 180 Klm it started to loose power again, so I pulled over and waited for approximately 1/2 hour started the car OK and drove home.
Since then i have been working on the car, I have:
Replaced the timing belt, water pump and rollers, new spark plugs, new ignition coils, new rocker cover gaskets, new solenoids for the gearbox, cleaning and new seals for the injectors, replaced the indicator unit, installed a new starter motor and replaced the engine fan.
It just keeps going on and on.
I have not driven the car since I bought it.
Now this!!!
Click to expand...
Loss of power after hours of drive and gains power after hours of engine off, is usually fuel pressure issue (like the fuel pump).

What was the last work or thing you did or touched on the car before this last issue suddenly started?

Lion-King Monk
 
Zeus said:
New BSM for $3,650 will look for a used one.
Click to expand...

Have you confirmed the PSF1/BSM is stuffed?
In your fuse tests pdf, with ign on you have 0v at fuse 10 but 12v at fuse 5.
These are fed from the same internal relay so they should have the same voltage whilst the engine is cranking.
 
Test whilst cranking for 12v on fuse 10 and fuse 5 as it will drop to zero after a short period at 0 rpm, but not always the same period as fuel pump is cycled.
 
Ikenna351 said:
Loss of power after hours of drive and gains power after hours of engine off, is usually fuel pressure issue (like the fuel pump).

What was the last work or thing you did or touched on the car before this last issue suddenly started?

Lion-King Monk
Click to expand...
I replaced the electric throttle plug
 
AlexB said:
Have you confirmed the PSF1/BSM is stuffed?
In your fuse tests pdf, with ign on you have 0v at fuse 10 but 12v at fuse 5.
These are fed from the same internal relay so they should have the same voltage whilst the engine is cranking.
Click to expand...
Ignition on and off fuse 10 nil voltage
Ignition on and off fuse 5 nil voltage
Have not checked while cranking
 
Zeus said:
Ignition on and off fuse 10 nil voltage
Ignition on and off fuse 5 nil voltage
Have not checked while cranking
Click to expand...
OK, must have been an error when you measured 12v on fuse 5.
Do you have any crimp spade connectors?
Next step is as DMC says, putting 12v onto fuse 10 from another source to provide power to the injectors and then crank the engine to see if it starts. If it does, remove the wire to stop the engine (ign key won't turn it off).
 
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