Thanks, Michael. I shall keep that in mind when driving it around.
1925 Citroen 5CV
- Thread starter Ron McGr
- Start date
The little car has passed it's roadworthy inspection. Next hurdle is QLD TPT approving the certificate. a 1925 Citroen doesn't have a 17 digit VIN number, and that becomes a problem with some of the staff in the registration department 
Hi Ron,
My son had a 1977 GS Pallas (which is a pre-VIN car) registered last year and when I do a QLD Rego Check, the VIN field is blank but I am sure there is room in the database for Chassis and Engine Numbers. There used to be a practice in Qld Transport of engraving a VIN number on the chassis but that doesn't seem to be happening as much these days. Below is a photo of one of the other 5CVs in Queensland and you can see it is/was registered under the number plate of VN1347 if this helps you with the process.
Cheers, Ken
My son had a 1977 GS Pallas (which is a pre-VIN car) registered last year and when I do a QLD Rego Check, the VIN field is blank but I am sure there is room in the database for Chassis and Engine Numbers. There used to be a practice in Qld Transport of engraving a VIN number on the chassis but that doesn't seem to be happening as much these days. Below is a photo of one of the other 5CVs in Queensland and you can see it is/was registered under the number plate of VN1347 if this helps you with the process.
Cheers, Ken
This wonderful thread sucked me in enough to read right through https://amicale5hp.forumactif.com as well. There are some excellent photos.
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Thanks Ken. I managed to find both chassis number and engine numbers that are confirmed on the Citroen manufactured site. Definitely a 1925 model. I wonder where your Son's car was built? Sydney, Melbourne and Adelaide all used different manufacturing companies to make the bodies. Mine was TJ Richards in Adelaide.
Most of my cars/bikes are pre 17 digit VIN and I've never had a hiccup. If it was registered interstate just take a copy of the interstate rego with you.The little car has passed it's roadworthy inspection. Next hurdle is QLD TPT approving the certificate. a 1925 Citroen doesn't have a 17 digit VIN number, and that becomes a problem with some of the staff in the registration department
Problem with this car, is although I have the original SA number plate from 1925, the rego probably expired in the 50's or early 60's and it had sat in a shed up until 1970.
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The registration number is "proof of origin". Maybe just take a photo of the plate with you so they don't try and confiscate it.
My DS had no history recorded on any of the state transport websites, I had no old rego certificates, no proof of prior registration, it doesn't have a 17 digit VIN, all I could tell them was at some stage it lived in SA.
That was 12 months ago and I had no dramas registering it.
[QUOTE="Greenpeace, post: 1750356, member: 25666"
My DS had no history recorded on any of the state transport websites, I had no old rego certificates, no proof of prior registration, it doesn't have a 17 digit VIN, all I could tell them was at some stage it lived in SA.
That was 12 months ago and I had no dramas registering it.
[/QUOTE]
Same here: I thought I may need a previous proof of registration for my Safari, but all I needed was the Roadworthy and the club plate paperwork and my credit card of course - didn’t even have to show a bill of sale. All done in 15min at VIC Roads.
My DS had no history recorded on any of the state transport websites, I had no old rego certificates, no proof of prior registration, it doesn't have a 17 digit VIN, all I could tell them was at some stage it lived in SA.
That was 12 months ago and I had no dramas registering it.
[/QUOTE]
Same here: I thought I may need a previous proof of registration for my Safari, but all I needed was the Roadworthy and the club plate paperwork and my credit card of course - didn’t even have to show a bill of sale. All done in 15min at VIC Roads.
[QUOTE="Greenpeace, post: 1750356, member: 25666"
My DS had no history recorded on any of the state transport websites, I had no old rego certificates, no proof of prior registration, it doesn't have a 17 digit VIN, all I could tell them was at some stage it lived in SA.
That was 12 months ago and I had no dramas registering it.
Same here: I thought I may need a previous proof of registration for my Safari, but all I needed was the Roadworthy and the club plate paperwork and my credit card of course - didn’t even have to show a bill of sale. All done in 15min at VIC Roads.
[/QUOTE]
Vicroads loves club permits as the liability is placed back onto the club. They are happy to just approve paperwork handed over and signed by someone else .....
The baby Citroen is now registered in QLD.
Hard to believe that I'm the second registered owner of this car, in it's 97 years.
I believe it may have been in a shed unregistered since the 1950's.
It's actually on full registration for 3 months, then will be on club rego.
Still waiting on the carby rebuild.
It will be running for the RACQ Motorfest and All French Display Day in Brisbane.
Hard to believe that I'm the second registered owner of this car, in it's 97 years.
I believe it may have been in a shed unregistered since the 1950's.
It's actually on full registration for 3 months, then will be on club rego.
Still waiting on the carby rebuild.
It will be running for the RACQ Motorfest and All French Display Day in Brisbane.
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And the crowd yelled hoorah and cheered wildly. Congratulations Ron, see you there.
Got the carby back today. All excited, put it back on the car and tried to start it.
No go, petrol running out of the inlet and down the side of the engine.
Carby still floods, although he told me the needle and seat were good.
Took the spark plugs out and they appear to be the originals, all wet one with rust.
Looks like the head gasket has also gone. Winding the motor over water cam out the exhaust manifold and yes, Radiator is low.
I cleaned the plugs, turned off the fuel tap and the car started and ran for a few seconds.
I managed to find four replacement plugs on ebay. (ngk 2910 ab-6)
The ones in it I have never heard of before, Pyrox PA, made in Australia.
Nothing more entertaining than a 97 year old car.
No go, petrol running out of the inlet and down the side of the engine.
Carby still floods, although he told me the needle and seat were good.
Took the spark plugs out and they appear to be the originals, all wet one with rust.
Looks like the head gasket has also gone. Winding the motor over water cam out the exhaust manifold and yes, Radiator is low.
I cleaned the plugs, turned off the fuel tap and the car started and ran for a few seconds.
I managed to find four replacement plugs on ebay. (ngk 2910 ab-6)
The ones in it I have never heard of before, Pyrox PA, made in Australia.
Nothing more entertaining than a 97 year old car.
Pyrox!! That would be 50s or earlier.
Edit - this chap seems to know equivalents - https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ttalk&th=331888
Edit - this chap seems to know equivalents - https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ttalk&th=331888
I think these plugs maybe the original plugs. They sure look it
Most veteran c
ars are set up with a foot operated transmission brake and a handbrake on the rear wheels. You learn to drive with the handbrake as the transmission brake can do damage to the drivetrain unless used carefullyI have just discovered that. The foot brake only operates the single brake behind the gear box. The hand brake, the rear wheels. To me that looks like it is the wrong way around. Surely the two rear brakes would be more effective than a singular one
Anyone who has done an emergency stop using the Landrover tranmission brake knows what it's like - it's very easy to lock both back wheels. Since the clutch is in, the main transmission load is on the drive shaft and diff. In really muddy conditions it may be all you have.
What is the fuel supply on this Ron. Is it gravity fed or a vacuum tank?
that is so, it has a 'fine mesh screen' as you say and yep, they clog.If it only leaks when running maybe check the crankcase ventilation as well. Not sure about your model, but a lot of these older cars have a fine mesh screen that can clog quite easily.
My old 1926 Rover I bought from SA leaked like the Exxon Valdez as well, engine, gearbox and diff.
Most of the oil seals in it were made from either leather or felt.
Mind you the owner's manual said to check the gearbox and diff levels every 300 miles, so it didn't seem that there was much confidence in the oil staying put when it was new either.
It had little swinging doors held in place with wingnuts on these items for ease of lubricant level checking and filling.
gravity-fed.