Koleos Hints, Tips, Problems
- Thread starter 85Fuego
- Start date
I have the same model, except Privilege petrol auto. My driver's side one went years ago so I bought a new one. Warranty was only 3 years back then and of course it failed just outside warranty. I bought the less fancy one without a light, still over $200. Might be cheaper if you have grey/black interior, mine's the camel, light grey and light brown.
The battery is less than a year old. While driving around today the car started normally twice, and didn't 4 times. Later I ran a bypass into the cab and fitted a 2nd starter button which I can use to engage the starter when I need to. Not a great solution, but it allows me to use the car while I'm working out this issue. It's a nice car to drive, but terrible in the summer sun (black inside and out, and soaks up heat). I'd like to sell it before summer hits, but I doubt anyone will buy it the way it is.
If the starter works ok with a remote switch, again it points to the Starter Relay as a likely problem (I only presume one is fitted). Unless you have already eliminated the relay (and I don't know your capabilities) that is what I would look at. Now I went to look at my later model Koleos fuse/relay box in the engine compartment, but it is under the air intake tube and I didn't have the time, but the location of the relay is probably on a label inside the lid of the fusebox. I tried the owners manual, but it tells me "some fuses and relays should only be replaced by an authorised professional, so they are not labelled" - what??
This is supposedly the Renault information on your earlier model Koleos:
The lid should just clip off with finger clips.
This is supposedly the Renault information on your earlier model Koleos:
The lid should just clip off with finger clips.
Fuse box location
Engine compartment
Some accessories are protected by fuses located in the engine compartment in fuse box A. However, because of their reduced accessibility, we advise you to have your fuses replaced by an approved Dealer.
Further to above, I found a fuse diagram for the early Koleos:
KOLEOS I – Engine comp fusebox 1
R17 – Relay 1 speed fan
R18 – Relay 2 speed fan
R19 – Relay 3 speed fan
R20 – Starter relay
************************************************************************
Refer R20 approximately in centre of fuse box.
Note this is the squarish fusebox with one corner cut off - as per diagram, I think it is rearmost under the air intake ducts.
This will be a large relay, maybe 30amps.
If the other relays (17,18,19) are same rating, you could swap one for trial purposes, but if not, it may damage a lower rated relay, and you would need to purchase a new one.
Cheers.
KOLEOS I – Engine comp fusebox 1
Assignment
| F1 | (10A) Steering column lock |
| F2 | (10A) Engine management system |
| F3 | (10A) Engine management system |
| F4 | (10A) Fog lights |
| F5 | (10A) Air conditioning / heater |
| F6 | (30A) Windshield wiper |
| F7 | (15A) RH headlamp |
| F8 | (15A) LH headlamp |
| F9 | (10A) |
| F10 | (10A) LH headlamp |
| F11 | (10A) RH headlamp |
| F12 | (10A) Steering wheel switches |
| F13 | (15A) Fuel pump |
| F14 | (15A) |
| F15 | (10A) |
| F16 | (10A) |
| F17 | (15A) Engine management system |
| F18 | (10A) |
R18 – Relay 2 speed fan
R19 – Relay 3 speed fan
R20 – Starter relay
************************************************************************
Refer R20 approximately in centre of fuse box.
Note this is the squarish fusebox with one corner cut off - as per diagram, I think it is rearmost under the air intake ducts.
This will be a large relay, maybe 30amps.
If the other relays (17,18,19) are same rating, you could swap one for trial purposes, but if not, it may damage a lower rated relay, and you would need to purchase a new one.
Cheers.
Thanks Fordman for the detailed reply. Turns out the relay named 'Starter Relay' has little to do with the starter motor, it's a general accessories circuit (and confirmed OK). Besides which, I've replaced this whole module with no improvement.
Interesting that when I got the car back from the dealer 3 of the relays were damaged like they'd been pried out with a sharp screwdriver and not the correct tool, and one was a different model like it had been replaced (manufacture date later than the car). There are another dozen relays soldered direct to the circuit board and hidden under the casing. Two of these work in tandem to feed 12V to the solenoid. I soldered leads onto the coil terminals so I could monitor these relays, but didn't read anything that made sense, even when the car started normally.
I traced the signal that drives one relay back to the UCH (passenger compartment computer, module 645 in the attached diagram) and got 7.6V when I expected 12V. I added a relay to turn that 7.6V into 12V but that didn't help. I'm operating on many assumptions and don't have a diagnostic checklist, nor diag computer. I'm looking to buy a wrecked UCH and get an auto-elec to code my keys to it. Sounds expensive but it's still 20% of what I was quoted by the dealer.
Interesting that when I got the car back from the dealer 3 of the relays were damaged like they'd been pried out with a sharp screwdriver and not the correct tool, and one was a different model like it had been replaced (manufacture date later than the car). There are another dozen relays soldered direct to the circuit board and hidden under the casing. Two of these work in tandem to feed 12V to the solenoid. I soldered leads onto the coil terminals so I could monitor these relays, but didn't read anything that made sense, even when the car started normally.
I traced the signal that drives one relay back to the UCH (passenger compartment computer, module 645 in the attached diagram) and got 7.6V when I expected 12V. I added a relay to turn that 7.6V into 12V but that didn't help. I'm operating on many assumptions and don't have a diagnostic checklist, nor diag computer. I'm looking to buy a wrecked UCH and get an auto-elec to code my keys to it. Sounds expensive but it's still 20% of what I was quoted by the dealer.
Attachments
H45 is coming up to 10 years old and thought it's about time to change the coolant. My owner's manual doesn't specify what sort of coolant is needed, nor the volume.
Any ideas? It's a manual H45 QR25.
Thanks.
Any ideas? It's a manual H45 QR25.
Thanks.
Beware the proximity of the bleeder #11 to hot surfaces.
My memory says I had to do it with a glove for protection when I did it.
I also seem to remember it having to be done blind - ie by feel.
My memory says I had to do it with a glove for protection when I did it.
I also seem to remember it having to be done blind - ie by feel.
Type D is available almost exclusively at Renault dealers. There been plenty of discussion in the past about alternatives….
don’t bother with alternatives unless there really is no dealer sourced option.
type d is premium premixed coolant, at a reasonable price, and you engine internals will be as clean as the day they were cast.
don’t bother with alternatives unless there really is no dealer sourced option.
type d is premium premixed coolant, at a reasonable price, and you engine internals will be as clean as the day they were cast.
Thanks all, will delay until I’m near a dealer (150km+ round trip to the nearest).
Hi fellow French car lovers , i have been reading the forums for a while and have owned several Citroens and now a 2018 Renault koleos , hoping the knowledge on here can assist with an issue it seems to be having, the fuel gauge will read under half full and suggest that it has several hundred km's , after a short trip and parked , once started again the fuel gauge light is on and has 0 kms , I then put more fuel in and the gauge goes to back over half full , i have had the dealer do a reset but it seems to be happening again, seems to only happen when the gauge reads under half ?
car locked up at night so unlikely. does the fuel float read for the whole tank or just the top half then reads by computer for the bottom half ?
Not sure of the current design setup, but it would probably be either a float or solid state covering the full travel, full to empty. My first thought is that the level mechanism (whatever the design) in the tank is the likely culprit. Will try to get further info.
My 2019 Koleos has a related problem which doesn't worry me, the gauge sits on Full for up to 150 kms, then falls gradually, seems fairly accurate in the bottom half by the quantity of fuel I put in.
thanks Fordman , any help is appreciated
I think showing full for the first 100 or so Km is pretty standard for a Renault fuel gauge, all mine do it from the all the R12's that I have had, the Laguna V6 and the Megane GT220. I don't think you have an issue Chris and would not be concerned. What I would be concerned about would be if the computer said you had 150 Km left in the tank and then you ran out of fuel.
I don't think the fuel gauges are terribly accurate, just give you an indication of how much fuel is in the tank.
The computer is more accurate and I think works off the pulsing of the injectors to give the range left in the tank.
It's a side issue but I don't trust the trip computer much either (on any car). It can be a good guide and relative to previous readings (ie, consumption is better or worse than other times), but not factually correct.
In fact, our Koleos has just completed an 11000km trip across the country and we recorded all fuel fills, and the trip computer record at the time (then zeroed computer at each fill). More info to be posted when I get a round tuit, but for interest right now, the actual fuel consumption by Litres added/Kms travelled was 8.90 L/100km. The average difference between individual L/100 calculation (actual) and the trip computer version was 8.1% - the trip computer being on the optimistic side in every case. So I didn't trust the "remaining distance" computer advice at all when it got down to the lower levels. But I never let it get below 1/4 full either, so there was no problem.
So yes, the fuel gauge is a good guide only, together with the trip odometer in my case.
Cheers.
On the trip computer in modern cars, I have had the Laguna V6, Laguna V6 ii & Megane Gt220. I look at the remaining range to fill up to see if I have enough fuel to get to where I'm going. Quite often the low fuel warning comes on as it gives a warning in the Lagunas with 80Km remaining and Megane 50Km remaining. I have never run out of fuel in these cars but have been down to the 2 to 3 litres of fuel in the tank. Maybe I put to much faith in the trip computer.
Your results are interesting between your records and the trip computer, I would of thought the results would of been closer than 8%.