Tool Talk

Here's my version of that tool we were discussing a week or so ago. A bit rusty, but it's fine. Japan made.

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Stuey said:
Here's my version of that tool we were discussing a week or so ago. A bit rusty, but it's fine. Japan made.

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Looks the same as mine, just checked seems I have two of them and on the other side has KOAK brand and one has 250mm Automat wrench and the other has 10" Automat wrench beside the KOAK name. I find them both very handy around the workshop, jaws have never blunted even with extensive use.
 
Kenfuego said:
Looks the same as mine, just checked seems I have two of them and on the other side has KOAK brand and one has 250mm Automat wrench and the other has 10" Automat wrench beside the KOAK name. I find them both very handy around the workshop, jaws have never blunted even with extensive use.
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It looks like it do with the once over with you magic rust removing "rubber" :wink2:
 
Hmmnn some old age confusion.. that most of us oldies need to watch for...

robmac said:
It looks like it do with the once over with you magic rust removing "rubber" :wink2:
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Not really as mine are still shiny, but Stuey's will respond to light wire brushing or steel wool to clean it up and then a spray of WD 40 will keep it nice, but the tool will work fine like it is..:D

The Super Erasor works best on flat rusted objects :wink2:

Ken:)
 
You mean a tool the pop the taper and remove the ball joint?

There isn't one on the market I've found that fits the Renault ball joint properly; and you risk damaging the rubber boot in any case.
I find the best way is to put it up on axle stands; take the wheel off so that the weight of the disc and control arms help with gravity.

Release the ball joint nut a few turns (but not take it off - this can be tricky if it spins in the ball joint); then hit either side of the steering arm with two hammers at the same time adjacent to where the taper is. Be careful to hit the arm, and not the ball joint or nut. If it doesn't work first time, find two bigger hammers!

edit - if it still has the original ball joints, they will be rivetted to the control arms. This must be ground off carefully with a grinder down to the point where you can use a pin punch to push it out. Again, be careful to not take too much meat off the control arms with the grinder. Replacement ball joints will be bolted on with bolts and nylocs supplied with the ball joint.
 
Pipe flarer

G'day,

here's one to steer clear of, Haron HFT250.

hft250.jpg

Saw this at the green shed and wanting one that I can use in confined etc spaces, I opened the wallet. Wow, have this lot taken a quality brand name and trashed it, the design is pathetic.

Someone must have told them that if they reduced the section of the anvil block they could save 20 cents a unit. The block is about 27mm wide, which reduces to about 25mm as they have kindly taken off all the sharp edges. The holder it "sits" in with the screw & flare former has a gap of 35mm, yep, that's 8mm of "slop", and the open gap is 20mm.

Which means that you have to juggle this bloody thing with 2.5mm of holding grip on each side of the mogrel.... :disappr:

All for the sake of extra 5mm width on the anvil.... :rolleyes:

At least the look like it's hardened former is loose on the screw and has a drop of grease in it, they got that bit right.

And, as Murphy will tell you, the screw forming bit wont fit onto their old time bash it anvil, that anvil has lots of meat.

cheers,
Bob
 
Non eccentric flare tools are rubbish.

In larger size tubes they tend to crack the copper.

Get a decent tool,

rigid flare tool.JPG

Ebay, Chinese rip offs are a reasonable second choice.

EDIT: There are two flare standards in common use,

JIS 37 degree, used in hydraulic and fluid power industries

SAE 45 degree, used in plumbing and air conditioning.
 
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Ken it is the KOAK brand! I don't worry about rust like that unless it causes issues. It's coated in heavy oil and the teeth on the jaws are sharp. I do use Fertan where required if it's a tool I'll use a lot.

The really upsetting thing is that over the years my Dad's tools were pilfered from his garage by tradies etc. and before we realised half were gone. He had a lifetime's worth of all sorts. Worst was he fitting and turning micrometers, calipers, dial guages etc. all stolen. I remember this beautiful British made micrometer in a steel case lined with felt which was just a thing to behold. But even now I say, oh, Dad had one of those and realise it's gone (I inherited the remainder). Very upsetting.


Kenfuego said:
Not really as mine are still shiny, but Stuey's will respond to light wire brushing or steel wool to clean it up and then a spray of WD 40 will keep it nice, but the tool will work fine like it is..:D

The Super Erasor works best on flat rusted objects :wink2:

Ken:)
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As mentioned a few weeks ago, I've now received my EW10J4 timing belt locking tools from Hong Kong. They're really good, and for AU$14 with free postage delivered in about three weeks, a screaming bargain. Ordered on 16 April, received today and with tracking. Top notch.

Seller is called supperdeal (not super, supper).

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Vida XL also sell a set of Peugeot/Citroen timing belt engine locks to cover virtually all the FWD engines About $50 from memory when I bought my set.
 
Yeah, I saw the bigger sets for about $60+ on eBay but I'm trying not to clutter the shed with things I won't use in blow molded cases. I would've looked at those for sure if it was likely I might use the other bits.
 
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Stuey said:
Ken it is the KOAK brand! I don't worry about rust like that unless it causes issues. It's coated in heavy oil and the teeth on the jaws are sharp. I do use Fertan where required if it's a tool I'll use a lot.

The really upsetting thing is that over the years my Dad's tools were pilfered from his garage by tradies etc. and before we realised half were gone. He had a lifetime's worth of all sorts. Worst was he fitting and turning micrometers, calipers, dial guages etc. all stolen. I remember this beautiful British made micrometer in a steel case lined with felt which was just a thing to behold. But even now I say, oh, Dad had one of those and realise it's gone (I inherited the remainder). Very upsetting.
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yeah I'd be peed off if that happened, I have lots of inherited tools, many that were made up in a tool shop to do a particular job & the purpose is long forgotten, regarding the Fertan, is that still as good as the original, as the last lot I purchased was well watered down, nothing like the original bottle purchased years ago. It is actually just a boiled down bracken and somewhere in WA there is supposed to be an original distillery that produces the stuff, but I have never found out the location.

I'd love to get some original style Fertan. great stuff.

Regards.

Ken.
 
Thanks Roger, but no worries it was more the fact that they were my Dad's. All sorts of things and all made in the UK (he was a fitter and turner for BMC in Longbridge). So there were quite a few nice tools made in the West Midlands; other than the precision tools, things like little hammers, wooden handled screwdrivers, a hand made axe made in the factory, etc etc all nicked. Just irreplaceable stuff.


Roger Wilkinson said:
What engineering tools do you really miss, Stuey? I have a few multiples.

Roger
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I don't know if they are still available but the SNAP ON guy had, for free, various clever stickers for your tool box. One in particular read..
"The bloke who lends tools doesn't work here any more".
I was looked upon as being a bit odd at work,why? because I locked up my toolbox every night at knock off time.
A request from our service manager to leave our boxes open so that he could borrow tools. WHAAATT !
I recall some of the apprenti had SNAP ON kits worth big $, over time they would be decimated by borrowers, mainly workmates.:mad:
 
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