Koleos Register

G'day all
This is my first post on Aussie Frog and after reading all 9 pages again of this sub-forum I can comment on a few issues mentioned these past years. Like others I too graduated from a Scenis to a Koleos because there were no new Scenics to be bought in late 2012. And the 0% finance deal on the Koleos beat the other brands like a lay down misere!
I only got rid of the 2001 Scenic 2WD Dynamique because it got smashed and written off in Oct., 2012. Had 183+ Kms when written off and was reasonably reliable. Some things broke [rear shock absorbers, twice] but that's because I'm a hard driver.
Now with my 2012 Koleos 2WD 2.5Ltr petrol Expression 6 spd manual and am becoming more satisfied as the Kms build. As I just got back from a 10 day / 5,900 Km return trip from Parramatta, NSW, to Trinity Beach [Cairns], FN Qld, I'm doing an A type service, and then some, at 45,760Km. As I've done that trip usually twice a year plus 6 - 10 return trips to Noosa area each year since I bought the Scenic in Feb., 2002, I'm in a got position to compare the two Renaults.
For me, the Koleos handles like a truck on it's OEM Kumho Solus tyres when compared to the Scenic's Michelin Energys [and the Goodyears on my old Volvo]. My research has me intending to fit Continentals next, as recommended by a recent Choice magazine article. My 24y.o. son just swapped from M/Energys to the Continentals for our 2001 Pug 206 GTi and was very impressed with them on a recent 500 Km return trip from Hornsby to Rylstone, NSW, via Bells Line of Road and the Galston Gorge [for you interstaters, these are iconic Sydney area twisty roads]. And I have run 34 psi front and 32 psi rear [when unladen] on both cars for years, adjusting the rear pressures for cargo. With the Scenic / Michelin combo I could always get the back end to back free in hard corning for some rear wheel 'steering', just like my Volvo and XJ6s on the Putty Rd and the like. I tend to avoid the coast highways and travel along the Great Dividing Range as much as possible on trips to Qld & Vic. [BTW, I'm also a motorcyclist so I like my corners].
I also intend to change tyre size when I fit the Continentals by downsizing from the 60% aspect ratio to 55% so to gear the Koleos down for better top gear acceleration at the posted & strictly enforced 100 & 110 Km/hr speed limits here in the east of Oz.
On the Koleos maintenance issues:
- I replaced the original oil filter [a blue Nissan product as per posts by others] with another OEM one at 297Km, then again at about 1,500 Km, with an oil change, just to remove the initial metal wear of the engine. I also have a practice of fitting a magnet to the outside of all my vehicles oil filters ever since seeing the practice as an aftermarket fitting to BMW 'Boxer' motorcycles some years [decades] ago. The idea is that the magnet holds and fine metal wear material within the filter and I get the magnets from the back of speakers taken from old broken radios & the like;
- I have used Penrite oils for years now and have found in my Scenic, Volvo 940, Merc 280SE, Subaru Brumby, Jaguar XJ6's, Moto Guzzi's, BMW K model, Pug 405 Mi16 as well as the Koleos that I get a lower fuel and oil consumption with that brand, provided I use the correct viscosity and mineral vs semi-synthetic vs full synthetic, as per the car / motorcycle manufacturers' recomendation. The Koleos is too new [>46K] to use any oil at all and I too go with 15,000 oil changes for the last two occassions. With the Scenic, somewhere around the 120 - 140K Km mark it started needing a top up at about 10K, so I just changed oil and filter then;
- at the scheduled 25K Km replacement of the OEM paper air filter I bit the bullet and fitted a $102 K&N filter. Been using these filters on my vehicles for years, always with better fuel consumption IF I don't make use of the better accelleration. In the Scenic, on some steep hills I regularly drive up 5 -10 times / week, just the K&N filter change was like having an extra 1/2 a gear lower going uphill. On the Koleos, 105-110Km/hr overtaking is now commonly done in top gear, saving the change down to 5th;
- changed the cabin pollen filter myself at about 32K Km & t'was a doddle. Don't see why any competant home handyman would need to get a mechanic to do it. I went OEM for about $52 because I was in a hurry that day. Good to know I can get two for the price of one if I bother to buy off the Internet well in advance of my next time replacement [like many males, I have a wife with a sense of smell very sensitive to foul odours of a dirty cabin filter];
- like others above, I rotate my wheels from front to rear and back again about every 10 - 15K Kms. Just did them again on the Koleos noting I've done them at 12-13K intervals. I also bother to check the brake pads & rotors for wear while the wheels are off;
- I also prefer to OEM 17" alloy wheels of the Expression Koleos as they're much easier to clean than most, even the OEM 15" alloys on the Scenic. I also take the trouble to keep the contact surfaces between the wheels and brake hub scruptiously clean and free of rust & muck to ensure the wheels sit absolutely square if nothing else;
- re the droopy sunvisors: I had this happen on the Scenic somewhere around 80-120K Kms = bloody annoying! Early days yet but it apears to me that the Koleos has a better mounting / hinge / swivel mechanism. Hope so;
- re the dashmat: I got the charcoal grey one [off the Internet with about 1 week delivery] so to only slightly contrast with the 'near to black' interior fittings of my gloss white [not pearl white] exterior. Being a retired superannuation pensioner since last September, I wanted paintwork that I could easily and economically fix stone chips myself;
- re the floormats: I wasn't too fussed about a precise fit so I've got off the shelf black carpet mats that are made for a Toyota Camry, for about $35-40. Close enough = good enough as I'll replace them in a few years when worn somewhat;
- a Koleos fault I've experienced that no one else has mentioned, operation of the radio: sometimes when wanting to change between AM & FM bands using the column mounted control, I cannot get a response in the first instance from the appropriate button [near side button on the back side i.e. closest to the dash]. I can solve it by scrolling through from radio to CD to auxilliary then back to radio so that the correct button functions properly to scroll up & down between AM / FM modes. Noticably, this doesn't happen in the first instance after starting the car but occurs intermittently on the second or a latter occassion. Has anyone else experienced this phenomenon? I mentioned it to the dealer under warranty service but they didn't experience it and told there was no factory fault notification about it;
- another issue urgent for me now is the handbrake adjustment: does anyone in this forum know how to do it on the Koleos? I cannot find a workshop manual for the Koleos and under & in my car there is no obvious adjuster, unlike on the Scenic [& all my other cars]. Currently, I presume I'll have to remove the centre console plastics to access a mechanical adjuster. But even these plastic covers have no visible metal screws or plastic pins as retainers. And I'm loathe to start pulling on these plastic panels, for the obvious reasons. Info anyone?

2012 Renault Koleos Expression 2.5Ltr petrol 6 spd manual
2003 Peugeot 307 2.0Ltr 4 dr hatch 5spd manual
2001 Peugeot 206 2.0Ltr GTi coupe / hatch 5spd manual
1993 Subaru Brumby 1.8Ltr 4wd Sport utility 4spd manual
1992 Peugeot 405 Mi16 1.9Ltr 4dr 5spd manual
1991 Volvo 940 2.3Ltr sedan 5spd manual [conversion from a 244 Volvo]
1974 Jaguar XJ6 Series 2 4.2Ltr sedan 5spd manual [conversion from a Toyota Supra]
1970 Jaguar 420G 4.2Ltr sedan 3 spd automatic [for when I'm too decrepid to no longer be able to drive a manual]
and then there's all the motorbikes I've collected since my learner days in July, 1969.
 
- another issue urgent for me now is the handbrake adjustment: does anyone in this forum know how to do it on the Koleos? I cannot find a workshop manual for the Koleos and under & in my car there is no obvious adjuster, unlike on the Scenic [& all my other cars]. Currently, I presume I'll have to remove the centre console plastics to access a mechanical adjuster. But even these plastic covers have no visible metal screws or plastic pins as retainers. And I'm loathe to start pulling on these plastic panels, for the obvious reasons. Info anyone?
/QUOTE]

Hi,

Do you have the auto handbrake or is it the traditional manual handbrake?

David
 
Wow Blowfly, that is quite a story by way of an introduction. Welcome to the small tribe of proud Koleos owners and to the Koleos Forum. May you get as much enjoyment from your Koleos as the rest of us do.
Your Expression has a mechanical handbrake, just like mine, and adjustment is simple: pull up the cup holder (it just clips in) and you should find an adjustment screw.
Our friend David, aka 85Fuego probably has more detailed information for you.
By the way, there is a separate Thread for Technical Stuff pertaining to Koleos. This is merely a register. No matter.
 
Hi. Thought I would register my purchase yesterday of a Koleos Phase 3 Bose 4x2 Diesel Auto, Mars Grey. Build 10/13 and first registered at the end of February, 2014. Sold as a demonstrator with 12 kms.

My first cars (all second hand) were a 10, then 3 16TS (great cars) and a 20TS (a small fortune at the time in keeping it on the road.) In the mid- late 80's I couldn't find any second hand Renaults without rust, so bought my first Peugeot, a 1980 504. Several 504s, 505s, wagons and sedans, 405 Longchamp, 2001 406hdi Wagon (first new car, and purchased at the last moment over a Renault as Renault didn't have a diesel), 205si, 306, 403 (x2), 407 Touring (x2), 308Hdi Wagon and a 405Mi16, finally back to a Renault. My only other cars have been a 180B Wagon and a 1976 Kombi Camper. I am currently, last 10 years, a caretaker of a 1965 Corvette convertible.

I do not have a French background, but the first two cars I recall my father owning was a 403 and a 10. He always advised me, at the time, of not buying an Australian car as when he migrated to Australia, one of his first jobs in Sydney was on the Ford assembly line at Homebush (?), and he was a hopeless welder.

I traded my 2007 407Hdi Touring for the Koleos. The 407 had 106,000ks and the only items needing replacement in the 7 yrs (other than tyres/brakes/battery) was a minor hose to the turbo and an item related to the engine mount, a total of $400. ( a central display unit was also replaced under warranty). From all I have read on these forums and on the net, I anticipate the same reliability from the Koleos.

Whilst the memory of the 407 is still fresh in my mind, (and the 407 performed brilliantly for my needs) my observation of the Koleos is that road related noises and bumps are substantially isolated compared to the 407 (low profile tyres? worn tyres on the 407) but the engine noise is a lot more intrusive under acceleration than the 407. Not much different to the 308hdi (which my wife still drives).

It would appear the Koleos is a greatly under estimated vehicle, except for those who own one.
 
Welcome to the Koleos clan! You have certainly had along association with French cars over the years and I'm sure that your current wheels will be just as satisfying as any of your previous ones!
 
Hi all, I'm new to the (exclusive) Koleos club. I bought a 2013 Series II Privilege a couple of months ago with about 15K Kms on the clock so pretty much as new. The reason is was looking at the Koleos was as pointed out by Nod, there appears to be very positive feedback from those relatively few owners who actually dared to buy something other than a Forester. The other thread mentioned the tyranny of severe depreciation on these cars but it is double edged - I ended up with this all specced up Privilege for low $30,000s (and drive away as well) so that represents a massive saving on the new price and made it much better value than any other SUV. Of course when I sell it will depreciate further, but the biggest slug has already happened.

Anyway I have ben enjoying the drive greatly, recently drove 4K km to Adelaide and it cruised beautifully, just seems to sit on 2000 rpm almost constantly and was very quiet. And there was heaps of room for luggage. I'm hoping to tackle some of the less serious 4WD tracks up behind Canberra.

Downsides? Can't say I would pay extra for leather seats, for one thing they are just damned cold on frosty Canberra mornings and it takes quite a while for the seat heating to work. Also it takes a while to work out the sound system and the various knobs and buttons but it makes increasing sense after time. Also the touchscreen TomTom would be preferable.

But so far - loving it!
 
Hi everybody
I have had the Koleos since new in 2009 and have been happy.
Just come out of a 65000km service to replace the front rotors (must be soft steel) and a fuel filter, call Nissan for the filter if you find there are not many around
The wife has been driving it mainly short trips so I have to always keep an eye on the warning lights for the filter - If you see the light come on take it for a longer drive on the freeway to clear the filter - we had one time it was missed and a $400 forced regeneration hurt!

So nice to drive on the highway as mentioned sits just around 2000rpm in 6th and great acceleration when needed - If you notice it takes a while to run up to 6th gear I usually kick it up with the manual change

Koleos 4x4 diesel 2009
Scenic RX4 2003
Citroen C3 2004
 
Hi Guys
We have just purchased a used 2009 Renault Koleos Dynamique in Blue with only 38,000 kms on the clock.
Belonged to a doctor in Sydney so she obviously only drove it to work and back again.
Obviouos few door bumps and scratches, nothing serious.
It was hard work convincing my wife to change from her beloved Kia Rio (she loved the little sporty beast) but now is in love with her Koleos as she was with her RX4 Scenic a few years back.
Thus far I have not managed to get my hands on the keys very much but when I did I loved the 2.5ltr pull in manual.
I am hoping this is not going to be a money drain though having had Renault's before, their parts pricing sucks when it comes to bits that are uniquely Renault.

Can I ask if anyone has experienced the hardening of the rubber seals at the bottom corner of the windshield ?
I have a horrible feeling it is a common complaint. At first I thought it was plastic but on opening the bonnet the rest of the structure is rubber. But it has gone as brittle as all hell ! Now that to me is a design fault after only 5 years.
But the freakin dealer wants $139 for each side ! For a piece of moulded rubber ? You have to be joking.
Any ideas suggestions ? (see attached photos of part in question)
DSC_0158.jpgDSC_0159.jpgDSC_0160.jpg
 
Apparently they do go brittle and pieces will crack off them when they are poked and pulled by curious owners. I haven't touched mine since 2009 and they are still there, even with a few rough edges.
 
Agree with KL they ALL go brittle.
Find out part number and we'll search elsewhere.
 
Hi Guys
We have just purchased a used 2009 Renault Koleos Dynamique in Blue with only 38,000 kms on the clock.
Belonged to a doctor in Sydney so she obviously only drove it to work and back again.
Obviouos few door bumps and scratches, nothing serious.
It was hard work convincing my wife to change from her beloved Kia Rio (she loved the little sporty beast) but now is in love with her Koleos as she was with her RX4 Scenic a few years back.
Thus far I have not managed to get my hands on the keys very much but when I did I loved the 2.5ltr pull in manual.
I am hoping this is not going to be a money drain though having had Renault's before, their parts pricing sucks when it comes to bits that are uniquely Renault.

Can I ask if anyone has experienced the hardening of the rubber seals at the bottom corner of the windshield ?
I have a horrible feeling it is a common complaint. At first I thought it was plastic but on opening the bonnet the rest of the structure is rubber. But it has gone as brittle as all hell ! Now that to me is a design fault after only 5 years.
But the freakin dealer wants $139 for each side ! For a piece of moulded rubber ? You have to be joking.
Any ideas suggestions ? (see attached photos of part in question)
View attachment 58813View attachment 58814View attachment 58815

Storm, I had to replace the two scuttle en-pieces you show. Mine were around $155 each plus postage out of Perth. Ridiculous having to replace items like this on a 5 yo car. Shoddy quality control, it is. The parts guy in Perth said the part number had changed which usually means the supplier had changed but he was unable to tell me if it had actually improved. Luckily, mine came out of lease funds but really, should have been a warranty fix (the were probably falling apart before the 3 years was up but I didn't notice until I picked bits off with my fingernail while cleaning the car). A few things went wrong on my car after the 3 years :) I'd suggest they're some kind of ABS plastic rather than rubber, but they've left out UV stabilisers.
 
Do Nissan Xtrail use the same rubber scuttle pieces? They may be cheaper ex Nissan and possibly a better composition of rubber.
 
No definitely made of rubber as I pulled the buggers out.
The part under the bonnet is soft and pliable but the exposed section might as well be made of freakin plasticine !
DSC_0160.jpg
Here's the part number on the one I pulled off.
Mervin at City Auto in Richmond gave me the price.
Maybe it's me being stubborn I just find it hard to come to grips paying through the nose for a rubber part that lasted only 5 years.


On another note I am having to get a roadworthy transferring from NSW to VIC registration.
Stuff me if the only fail point is condensation in the headlights.
I managed to use a hair dryer to get rid of it but damned if the first time we drove it back it comes.
Any quick solution guys as all I want is the RWC and I can;t very well get rid of it in front of the RWC issuer using a hair dryer (hahahahahaha)
 
No definitely made of rubber as I pulled the buggers out.
The part under the bonnet is soft and pliable but the exposed section might as well be made of freakin plasticine !
View attachment 58899
Here's the part number on the one I pulled off.
Mervin at City Auto in Richmond gave me the price.
Maybe it's me being stubborn I just find it hard to come to grips paying through the nose for a rubber part that lasted only 5 years.


On another note I am having to get a roadworthy transferring from NSW to VIC registration.
Stuff me if the only fail point is condensation in the headlights.
I managed to use a hair dryer to get rid of it but damned if the first time we drove it back it comes.
Any quick solution guys as all I want is the RWC and I can;t very well get rid of it in front of the RWC issuer using a hair dryer (hahahahahaha)

Quick fix ? Drill a couple of holes in the top of the headlights to vent the vapour, then seal them up afterwards. I wonder if the rubber covers that seal the back of the headlamp globes from moisture have been dispensed with at a change of headlight globes as the source of the moisture getting into the lamps.?

Whatever, you will in a few years have to get hold of some replacement (Second-hand) headlights from wreckers as the moisture will eventually destroy the internal coatings.

Hope that helps.. It would be nicer to seal them properly, but that doesn't help in this present situation.

Ken.
 
Thanks Kevin - bit dubious about drilling holes just to get the initial registration.
I rang a place here in Melbourne that specialises in headlight sealing & repairs.
She suggested leaving the caps off so there is somewhere for the moisture to vent out.
Previously I had dried them out using hair dryer but of course it came back after the first drive so something is amiss.
Fortunately this suggestion seems to be working. I have also hung a small dessicant bag in the back of the headlight structure to see if that helps. Now if I can only make it to the roadworthy to eliminate that hassle.

UPDATE : It worked - stayed clear all the way there and back again with rear caps removed.
By the way don't ask how much replacement headlights are if you have the XENON in them.
I paid $13,000 delivered to VIC for the car, the headlights quote was more than 1/10th the price we paid for the vehicle. SOmeone somewhere is making copious quantities of money !
 
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Good you had the desired outcome, next of course is the final fix and seal of the headlight.. Though, removal of headlamps seems to be a complicated process these days, if is like some others, you have to almost dismantle the front end!! When you do finally fix the problem - report back on how you did it

Glad you got it past the Roadworthy - enjoy!

Ken
 
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