:doh: I gotta learn to type faster...
Truly very much appreciated Hotrod.!
Now, because this is a little beyond my electricals skills and am not able to trace those two flying wires out in the engine bay , can I use some lateral thinking here.
Having established those two flyingwires at the barrel, can I cut them there, then join another length of wires to them and take those directly to the solenoid ?
The previous picture I posted wasn't the correct one , this is the one I bought.
:banana:Some Success,
Attached are two pictures.
I have found blue tag wire "C" which appears to RETURN from the transmission. I connected the clip to it and the light to positive on battery, when key turned to ignition the light comes ON :banana:
Buoyed by a new spirit of excitement, I promptly connected this wire "C" to wire "A". And turned the key nothing happened. I guess it's because I have to do something with wire "B"
Connect to chassis?
View attachment 51192View attachment 51193
Hi Phil-
I'm back from Daffy's. It was leave San Diego at that minute, or kill someone and burn their house down.
OK- it appears you've actually made some pretty good progress. You've found the output wire from the transmission by your description.
Look carefully at the top of your solenoid. You will see that the copper plates are two pieces, not one. This allows the charging and starting circuits to work independently. The wire you see as "A" is the charge circuit side, and is used for either the battery charge wire, or on some cars is used as a battery + wire out to, say, the horn compressor, or in your case possibly battery feed for the EFI. This wire needs insulation at the end- this should not be exposed.
The other wire you've marked as "B" is the actual starter engage wire- this is the one that completes the circuit engaging the solenoid itself. One end of the solenoid coil is permanently attached to battery +. The other end- the negative end- is the one you identified. Placing a negative signal to this wire (connecting it to ground) completes the circuit, magnetizing the coil and driving a piston inside the coil out, compressing a copper wheel against the two copper plates, thereby sending battery power to the starter. To see how this works in a limited way, clip a test lead to wire "B", and touch the other end to battery ground. You can actually remove the one copper plate that has been screwed into position (the one with the cable to the starter), and try this. You'll see the copper daisy wheel pop up and down as you apply and take away the ground. Replace the copper plate to the solenoid when you're done visualizing.
The last thing to do, before you hook "C" to "B" is ensure you've found the transmission wire. Connect the test light just the way you had it for "C", and with the park brake set and a wheel chocked firmly against rolling, engine not running, ensure you get a light in park. Then, place the transmission in any other gear other than neutral. The light should go out. Place the car back in park, and the light should come on.
Connect "C" to "B". If nothing else was disturbed (the car did run before this, right?) your car should start. Remember to insulate that wire at "A", whether or not it gets used.
Start and run? Have a beer, my friend. You've earned it.:adrink:
Cheers-
Bill
Bill, Now you see what I was alluding to a few days ago. Note the relays attached to the battery hold down frame... Do I count 5 with a fusible link as well ??? That is the sort of non consumer friendly layer upon layer thinking I was thinking of...and I bet there is an inadequate length of wiring to allow removal of the battery frame as well. It is all in the fun of older Citroen ownership. They have cleaned up their act with new models that you don't see in North America..almost Japanese efficiency with lots and lots of fuses .. the fuse box is half the size of a brief case it seems, and there are others hidden in internal spots as well .. and to remove/replace the battery, only a snail cam needs be twisted and the 2 battery cables removed.
Bill,
First I hope you are not serious when you talk of bad vibes during your holidays, and if that's the case I certainly hope it wasn't with Daffy!.
You two guys are CITROEN AMERICA, and you are a beacon of light, and we need you united and keeping your excellent contributions coming!
Well, well,well... back from a trip today I read your post and went in for a final check as recommended: connect light to C and check the light goes off in gears others than parkand neutral. Sure enough..today... the bleeding light didn't come on when in Park and activating the key.
I have seen it work the other day, and I repeated it 3 times to make sure. So I think I've again disturbed some wires whilst poking around. Getting dark now, so back to it tomorrow in full sunlight.
Cheers
That blue end might be suffering from a bad crimp. You can try recrimping it, or put a new one on.
Hey Rod, no go. Am not able to get a light on that bleeding C wire anymore.
Last day of the holidays. The wife says no more DS now, family time.
The thing with this DS23 Injection Automatique with air conditioning is that the number of wires is phenomenal. At some stage someone renewed them and they are all either green or black!!!!!
Tell me if I'm wrong but because the solenoid does trigger the starter and absolutely everything else is okay, can I not just bring a wire from the solenoid (starter wire?) into the car, connect to a new start button, and ground the other end and Bob's your uncle? Thereby triggering the solenoid from inside the car, since that is proven to work
Have you ever had a holiday in Australia, Rod?
Okay, sojust checking before I get down there and do it:
- I extend wire B (starter wire) into the cabin,
- Attach it to one end of a start button,
- On the other end of the start button, connect a negative wire and run to somewhere on the chassis (ground).
When I push the button it should trigger the starter........
So I went and got myself a nice push button switch with black rubber boot this morning first up.
Connected wire 'B' (start wire) to one prong of the switch, connected another wire to the other prong which I then ran down to a nice earthing bolt and ensured a good connection to ground. For the 10th time went and checked I am in "PARK"
Back to the engine compartment, pushed the button, then ............click. some relay clicked, but no starter.
Can you offer further suggestions at this stage as to what I would be doing wrong.
Cheers
Hey Guys,
No, everything is fine regarding battery and starter. I can activate the starter from the battery solenoid which works fine.
Hotrod, is it a fact that grounding the solenoid starting wire should activate the starter? If that's the case, I can just touch the start wire to the chassis and I should get a reaction, right? Or will I get more than I bargained for?