Is this the best project car you have ever seen?

Got it ....

30268d1338990346-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen-p1050120.jpg


Remember this .... Well when you turn the indicators on that brass arm presses against the points closing them. Well after using the idicators probably 100times (you have to keep switching them on as they time out far to quickly IMO )..... anyway the brass arm could *just* by the tiniest fraction of a millimeter turn enough to "wedge" itself under the point and hold them closed indefinately. I've loosened the nut/bolt I added and pushed arm with the element on it a hair further out, so now the arm doesn't grab, it returns every time without fail. The issue is now the indicators have been "stuck on" for extended periods of time. They still don't want to work, nothing looks burnt with any of the coils, so I imagine one of the "points" in the flasher side has burnt (like ignition points do if you leave them on). I'm sure if I pull it back out and clean the points it'll be away for another 50years :)

seeya,
Shane L.
 
DoubleChevron said:
This is all I meant by fuse box.... cheap and simple. Yes I'll tidy that wiring up and tie it out of the way.

attachment.php


attachment.php


I'll just write on the back of the underbonnet fuse covers "FUSES BEHIND GLOVEBOX".

The indicators still aren't working. I'll have to pull the timer switch out and see what's going on.

seeya,
Shane l.
Click to expand...


May I make a suggestion? Take it or leave it, Ich gebe nichts, but on the new cover mark what color the fuses, actually the position markers are. 'Blue', 'red', and so on. This will make identification easier. One of those cheapie label printers like a Brother or a Casio work fabulously for this sort of thing. :2cents:
 
Hotrodelectric said:
May I make a suggestion? Take it or leave it, Ich gebe nichts, but on the new cover mark what color the fuses, actually the position markers are. 'Blue', 'red', and so on. This will make identification easier. One of those cheapie label printers like a Brother or a Casio work fabulously for this sort of thing. :2cents:
Click to expand...

Yeah good idea. I'm going to "wrap" all the wiring with modern plastic harness "split conduit" stuff anyway. Very wrong for this car, but it's all hidden. The entire harness was unwrapped behind the dash when it came to me, and now it's covered in nice highly conductive alluminium insulation, I figure the best and safest way to keep the wiring away from shiny conductors is to run it inside plastic harness.

I'm not replacing the harness as the wiring itself seems to be particularly good condition, no copper rot, and no deteriation of the plastic.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Shane if you had really wanted to throw the cat amongst the pidgeons. Possibly the use of .22 cartridges would be a good idea:evil:. Would give it the full on country feel. I'm sure Hotrodelectric could mock something suitable.:confused:
:cheers:
Brendan
p.s. I intend to replace the euro fuses in my 504 with a wedge fuse set up for exactly the same reasons.
 
Last edited:
bluey504 said:
Shane if you had really wanted to throw the cat amongst the pidgeons. Possibly the use of .22 cartridges would be a good idea:evil:. Would give it the full on country feel. I'm sure Hotrodelectric could mock something suitable.:confused:
:cheers:
Brendan
p.s. I intend to replace the euro fuses in my 504 with a wedge fuse set up for exactly the same reasons.
Click to expand...

See if you can find a pre-wired or "bolt on/ring terminal" type of fuse box. I can't say I'm fond of spade terminals. They never seem to "hold tight" for long. The coil -> dizzie spade terminal on the ID19 is already loose and happy to fall off if bumped. I'll chop it off and replace with a ring terminal and bolt it dizzie side.

Possibly the terminals I have aren't good enough quality. They are solid brass "NARVA" though... So I'm not sure where to get better :confused:

seeya,
Shane L.
 
robmac said:
Nothing a hot soldering iron and some heat shrink won't fix. I routinely solder never-to-be-removed connections.
Click to expand...

Yep ... Dunno how Hotrodelectric does it ... Wires that need joining always seem to be in in-accessible places. Just try and get some ratcheting crimpers down into the glovebox there so you can get nice tight crimps on the terminals. Sure a soldering iron fits in there easy, just try holding spliced wires together and fitting a second hand in there holding the solder. Auto-electricians must tear there hair out in frustration at some of the places they need to get too!

seeya,
Shane L.
 
robmac said:
Nothing a hot soldering iron and some heat shrink won't fix. I routinely solder never-to-be-removed connections.
Click to expand...

Rob that is really the only way to go, if it's intended to be a permanent fixture make it so!
Nothing wrong with Narva terminals, beats the sh!t out of Super Cr@p, lack of, quality parts. You always get what you pay for in the small items: electrical tape, wire, spark plugs:mad:(Champion, not!) and filters etc.
:cheers:
Brendan.
 
Solder the fuse box on the the bench leaving some wire "tails".

Tin the bare wire (read flood as much solder as it will hold), tin the terminal.

Offer the wire to the to pre-tinned terminal and apply heat to the top of the wire. Wait until the solder flows - all done two handed.

In line wire joins are easy, twisting first (don't forget the heat shrink tube), makes the join self supporting. I use a 100w old fashioned soldering iron.

You need to be quick with the heat to avoid melting/softening the fuse block. The upside is that with lots of stored heat the solder melts quickly.

In difficult spots you can be forgiven for using tubular crimp links.
 

Attachments

  • aarimp.jpg
    aarimp.jpg
    111.1 KB · Views: 433
Last edited:
dalderton said:
How about inventing a Solder MIG. Heat, pull the trigger and solder.Good project for someone.
Click to expand...

It's already be done (since the late 1940s from memory)

Soldering Gun Dual 30W/60W Iron Automatic Solder Feed [#01044] on eBay!

It's called a soldering gun. THe very original units had a copper wire loop that heated up instead of a tip.

I've used them and they are useless. No control over the solder or the heat.

For general automotive work you can't beat a Scope soldering iron. They have a steep learning curve to to learn how to use. (destruction of at least three elements and a few tips :D )
The upside is that can solder small wiring jobs or radiators! (especially running off a car battery)

Soldering Equipment : Soldering Stations : 100 Watt Heavy Duty Soldering Station : Precision Tools - Product Details
 
dalderton said:
How about inventing a Solder MIG. Heat, pull the trigger and solder.Good project for someone.
Click to expand...

Get yourself a superscope .... aussie made ... (sadly the trannie on mine is made in china :( ). Low voltage massive power....

d3f008dc454689eb2390133cdbfa029d.jpg


seeya,
Shane L.
 
DoubleChevron said:
Yep ... Dunno how Hotrodelectric does it ... Wires that need joining always seem to be in in-accessible places. Just try and get some ratcheting crimpers down into the glovebox there so you can get nice tight crimps on the terminals. Sure a soldering iron fits in there easy, just try holding spliced wires together and fitting a second hand in there holding the solder. Auto-electricians must tear there hair out in frustration at some of the places they need to get too!

seeya,
Shane L.
Click to expand...


I have a few different methods. If I have room to access, I can crimp on an open barrel connector using a ratcheting crimper- the ones I use are a bit better than the standard cheap parts-store ones. I also can crimp closed barrel connectors with a special set of pliers for that use, then solder and heat shrink. I use either standard or meltable-liner (basically hot melt glue) shrink tubing. I can use a butane-fed soldering pencil (weapon of choice for most jobs), a resistance pincer soldering unit, or a Weller D550 soldering gun for the heavy stuff. If I need to do a quick, get-it-roadable job, I can use the fully insulated connectors with a ratcheting crimper for those. As needed, I also do inline strip splices.

In all cases, wire nuts and quik-splices are ABSOLUTELY VERBOTEN, PERIOD. No exceptions, not even emergency roadside use. Tremendously unreliable crap in this use.

On the replacement fuseboxes I get from Europe, I pull the terminals from the boxes and solder female spade terminals to the male box ends. That's the only way I can be sure of a permanent fix. Looks fantastic once the color sleeve is heat-shrunk on.

I use heat shrink for the color sleeves- yes, I can get all 10 colors. I can even get the mauve.

After about 35 years of doing this, I don't tear my hair out anymore. It just hurts too much. I can, however apply a tie wrap with one hand!
 
DoubleChevron said:
Get yourself a superscope .... aussie made ... (sadly the trannie on mine is made in china :( ). Low voltage massive power....

d3f008dc454689eb2390133cdbfa029d.jpg


seeya,
Shane L.
Click to expand...
I met scope solder iron about 3 years ago. Now I use it everyday for my work.This is a very good Iron, the best. Instant heat. But need to get used to its characteristic as this Iron does get really hot! Easy to burn insulation as well. But love this one. Very useful tool.
 
That's funny ... I was posting that response about "get superscope" thinking " I bet half a dozen people tell me there crap and too hard to push the handle down on" ..... And Rob managed to post before me "get a scope" :roflmao: Ang bought me mine a few years ago as a birthday present. She just went into Wiltronics in Ballarat and asked "for a good soldering iron my husband won't think is chinese junk" :roflmao:

seeya,
Shane L.
 
DoubleChevron said:
That's funny ... I was posting that response about "get superscope" thinking " I bet half a dozen people tell me there crap and too hard to push the handle down on" ..... And Rob managed to post before me "get a scope" :roflmao: Ang bought me mine a few years ago as a birthday present. She just went into Wiltronics in Ballarat and asked "for a good soldering iron my husband won't think is chinese junk" :roflmao:

seeya,
Shane L.
Click to expand...

The reason the Scope is such a good iron is because of the manual control and almost unlimited heat. The reason the Scope is such a bad iron for many people is because of the manual control and almost unlimited heat.

I would not be without a Scope iron. Although they run off a nominal 4volt AC they are can be run off a 12 volt battery . Use a few metres of electric light flex as a dropping resistor and extension cable. Expect the flex to very warm/hot whilst in use. This makes them a very portable soldering iron.

Scopes are not for everyone , but once mastered and the fingers synced with the required heat they are invaluable.

Parts are cheap and easy to find and elements and tips are the only consumable items.

Shane, if the ring pressure is too high, check the ceramic bead insulators inside the barrel are not chipped or split or the barrel is full of burnt carbon from the elements. Normally they are very light in operation.
 
mberry said:
This is quite late in the debate about LHM vs LHS but interesting that back in the old country when restoring a 57 they go for LHM.

Philippe Losson Voitures de collections Spécialiste DS et ID
Click to expand...

That's nice, Losson does seem to stock only the best examples of the marque.
Without wishing to re-ignite the fluid wars just a couple of comments. I can understand why a professional restorer would change the fluid to LHM. If you are changing all the seals anyway then why not, it reduces the possibility of a comeback from the customer. However it does reinforce the perception that LHS systems are a disaster. Not necessarily so, as the song went. I've just stripped the hydraulic bloc and flow contol valve from my '57 DS19. The o-rings in the bloc were rock hard and came out in pieces. But all the spool valves and various widgets were in good condition, and showed only some staining - not bad after 56 years, most of which was in inactive storage.
Viva la LHS!
roger
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top