Jaeger DS Clock

shanadoo said:
Am I missing something here ?. Seems like you're doin' a lot of faffin' around for very little.
Why not get the clock professionally refurbished where such a procedure is quite excepted. There are many competitive clock restorers in the UK alone and, specialists in aircraft gauge refurbishment where a Smiths or Jaeger dial [if that's all you want done] would be commonplace. At least talk to a few professionals, might save you a lot of headaches in the long run.
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i don't understand why you would call a 15 minute job which is basic maintenance faffing around. Do you throw out an engine when it needs an oil change? Really best if you don't contribute if you do not have anything constructive to say. Most people want a cost sensible solution that if possible retains the original
 
PeterMol said:
i don't understand why you would call a 15 minute job which is basic maintenance faffing around. Do you throw out an engine when it needs an oil change? Really best if you don't contribute if you do not have anything constructive to say. Most people want a cost sensible solution that if possible retains the original
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Peter,
Please don't be offended by what Shanadoo or I have to say. We both have worked on or around clocks for a good few years. In my case I am involved in the restoration of antique clock faces - When I first embarked on this work perhaps some 10 years ago I was given a list of products that were not to come in contact with faces (in those days we had a monitored system of Quality Assurance)

One item listed was WD40, I won't pretend to know why it is severely frowned upon I just do as I'm told - a quick google placing Clock oil and WD40 as the search has you realising why anyone who has worked on clock movements might 'shudder'

https://www.google.com.au/search?hl.....1ac.1.34.heirloom-hp..1.13.2613.6DnxJ8o8GpE

wd 40 - Page 2

How To Oil A Clock

Wd40 and my clock movement

Frequently Asked Questions - Ken's Clock Clinic

Those are the first 4 results. . . This is not intended as a criticism you can't argue with your successes, more to explain why Shanadoo might 'shudder' at the mention of WD40 and clock oil.

Cheers
Chris
 
GreenBlood said:
Peter,
Please don't be offended by what Shanadoo or I have to say. We both have worked on or around clocks for a good few years. In my case I am involved in the restoration of antique clock faces - When I first embarked on this work perhaps some 10 years ago I was given a list of products that were not to come in contact with faces (in those days we had a monitored system of Quality Assurance)

One item listed was WD40, I won't pretend to know why it is severely frowned upon I just do as I'm told - a quick google placing Clock oil and WD40 as the search has you realising why anyone who has worked on clock movements might 'shudder'

https://www.google.com.au/search?hl.....1ac.1.34.heirloom-hp..1.13.2613.6DnxJ8o8GpE

wd 40 - Page 2

How To Oil A Clock

Wd40 and my clock movement

Frequently Asked Questions - Ken's Clock Clinic

Those are the first 4 results. . . This is not intended as a criticism you can't argue with your successes, more to explain why Shanadoo might 'shudder' at the mention of WD40 and clock oil.

Cheers
Chris
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Thanks Chris

That explains it much better. I was only acting on the advice of a clock repairer myself and as you say, it actually works. My view is that if the mechanism can be brought back to lif - all well and good. Will need to be proven in the long term but if there is a long term issue, nothing really lost in the process
 
How much time and effort can be spent on such a little thing? Why is it so important to have a working clock? We all have multiple devices that will tell you the time these days. If you must have it working surely you could just buy a cute little quartz clock, rip out it's guts then whack it in the old one, viola, tick tock. And you don't even have to wire it up, just pop it out to install a new battery every 5 years. And if you need to read it at night then we all have devices with torches on them. See, I have thought of everything.
cheers Tony
 
Ah , the joy of attention to pedantic (bloody) detail.

I've seen trial by AF Citroen Forum on ebay vehicles which have the wrong colour Hydraulic fluid tanks and it seems to reduce the intrinsic value vehicle to half.

I have no idea what a non working clock may do to the value. :roflmao:
 
robmac said:
Ah , the joy of attention to pedantic (bloody) detail.

I've seen trial by AF Citroen Forum on ebay vehicles which have the wrong colour Hydraulic fluid tanks and it seems to reduce the intrinsic value vehicle to half.

I have no idea what a non working clock may do to the value. :roflmao:
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Oh dear, I've gone into negative equity
 
badabec said:
Oh dear, I've gone into negative equity
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Along with many other car restorers. Who do maintenance in order to be able to drive and enjoy and drive car. Sometimes their budget doesn't allow concours style maintenance.

And personally I have no criticism of "honest cars" where the allowable budget is not open ended. :wink2:
 
robmac said:
Ah , the joy of attention to pedantic (bloody) detail.

I've seen trial by AF Citroen Forum on ebay vehicles which have the wrong colour Hydraulic fluid tanks and it seems to reduce the intrinsic value vehicle to half.

I have no idea what a non working clock may do to the value. :roflmao:
Click to expand...

robmac said:
Along with many other car restorers. Who do maintenance in order to be able to drive and enjoy and drive car. Sometimes their budget doesn't allow concours style maintenance.

And personally I have no criticism of "honest cars" where the allowable budget is not open ended. :wink2:
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Rob, I suspect you are just teasing and don't endorse 100% what you are saying. . . :confused:

Nothing wrong with good honest cars and nothing wrong with a non working original clock.

The problem some have is they have neither a clock or the OEM blanking plate - just on that, the plastic blanking plate is becoming as rare as a clock, if you can find one expect to pay 30-50Euro. Without either you have a gaping rectangular hole dead centre in a metal dash (3rd nose late cars). Non working OEM clocks are rare, working clocks of course moreso.

Anyone that is just smartening up a late D will spend $15-20k if you go the whole hog expect closer to $40k if you have a rare model add another $10k and then some. Those of us that are not 'well healed' spread that over several years, in my case 8 years off the road and do the required work ourselves.

Clocks bought from overseas that might be claimed to be working often arrive as no go. The movement was fragile when new and it could be claimed that it is testament to Citroen suspension that a few clocks still operate 40+ years on.

The earlier link does now provide a solution, a decent reproduction utilising a contemporary movement that will give many years (maybe another 40 years?) of service and in the scheme of things not that expensive. . .
Klokje DS ?68-> **nieuw!!** ? CITROTECH

@Deesse, the clock has little to do with correct time more to do with whole dash being period correct - non working clocks show the correct time twice every 24 hours.

pynhead said:
I would still recommend if you'd like to look at your dash and get the actual proper time...a simple yet satisfying pleasure for me that outweighs the issues.
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:approve:

For someone to have gone to the trouble of tooling up and manufacturing these reproductions (early and late models covered) there has obviously been a recognised need.

Cheers
Chris
 
Hi All,

New clocks with modern workings are now available from Der Franzose. There are 2 types the late with the plastic frame, and the earlier slope dash type with the metal frame.

They are presently out of stock of the later type.

Best regards,

Greg
 
In case anyone is interested in adjusting a DS clock...
I have a Jaeger with orange hands.
After a bit of trial and error, I seem to have adjusted it just fine.

It used to be about two minutes slow per day.
I dismantled it, cleaned it, had it run upside down for a while, after which it was about two minutes slow per day.

So I discovered something which is not in the documents I read.
See picture.
That whatchamacallit below the hole, if you push it clockwise, it makes the clock go faster.
Counterclockwise, slower.
The center tooth on it was on the center of the hole.
So I guess a tentative formula could be ½T=2'/24h
smiley.gif


ghieret.jpg
 
That's really handy to know. I'd love to give that a go. My clocks been out of the car for years so i don't know if it even works.I need to dismantle it to clean it. The stalk of the little chrome knob is very rusty. i don't want to clean it in situ and have rusty crap fall inside the mechanism. i think the knob's are push fit aren't they?
 
Chrome knob is the older model with the white hands, right?
(this is a '72 with the orange ones, and the knob is plastic).
Well, I have one of them too (on the '68), it has the same thingywhatsit with the three teeth and it works the same way.

the knob's are push fit aren't they?
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Well, either it is or they are :whistle:
Er... yes, you pull it to unfit.
Of course if the stalk is really rusty... a drop of WD40 for a few fours may be in order...
 
Budge said:
That's really handy to know. I'd love to give that a go. My clocks been out of the car for years so i don't know if it even works.I need to dismantle it to clean it. The stalk of the little chrome knob is very rusty. i don't want to clean it in situ and have rusty crap fall inside the mechanism. i think the knob's are push fit aren't they?
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It's called a regulator. The knob is called the hands set knob. And that's another 2 bits worth of useless information. Cheers.
 
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I got one of the citrotech reproduction clocks about 2 months ago. It was cheaper than a so called repair and keeps perfect time. Really good thing.
 
Repair

I have posted here before. Have repaired a number of clocks successfully. All they need is a clean and oil. The reason they stop is they are of a type that requires regular service which they don't get it. Clean it oil it, and run it upside down for a couple of weeks. You may need to reset the regulated speed as posted above.

I suppose my point is that in most cases they are not broken
 
badabec said:
"A man with one clock always knows the time, a man with two is never quite sure"
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That's why, in the days before radio, we used to carry three on ships ;):cool:

So, anyway,
--------------------- BORING STORY ---------------------
After I actually fined-tuned my Gegè (how Italians read Jaeger);) to perfection, the other day... it stopped.
I've had it at home for a while. I've tried, oiling, cleaning, remagnetising, swapping ruby tuesdays with fridays, tefloning the rubies, rubbing the shoulders, threatening, cajoling... I'm losing hope.
That swinging weight... just doesn't swing quite far enough to turn the grindstone.
It almost does (if I push it), but not quite.
So, I haven't completely lost hope, but... pretty much. Because in the long run, you know...
----------------- END OF BORING STORY -----------------

-------------------- ACTUAL QUESTION --------------------
Has anyone tried taking off the face plate of the broken clock and fitting it to the Citrotech one?
:)
 
I haven't but I've got an el cheapo mechanism and a jaeger (which after reading all this most probably would go again) and am half tempted to try the surgery.
 
Sorry Don - not tried it myself. Had a quick look on the Frazose site. The repos seem to be made in same/ similar way to the Jaegaer with the chromed facia crimped around the body. So that is a good start. Do you know whether or not the face with the word 'Jaeger' (as I assume that is the main bit you want to retain) is screwed to the workings inside? Or is it just sandwiched in?

Given your situation, you could do worse than buy a repro, carefully look at the scope to cannibalise it and, if not, you could still use the repro as is.
 
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